Our 2001 Project DII
#11
Rebuild the front drive shaft with serviceable U-joints. There are instructions here, https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...rebuild-29302/ If you don't want to mess with pressing out old and pressing in new U-joints, you can buy a new drive shaft with serviceable U-joints from several places. I have one from Lucky8.
There are plastic vacuum lines and plastic parts in the cooling system that will have gotten brittle over the years.
There are plastic vacuum lines and plastic parts in the cooling system that will have gotten brittle over the years.
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DiscoBuckeye (03-12-2016)
#12
Update: I found two plug wires disconnected from plugs. Re attached and WOW runs so nice now. Cleaned out the TB this morning as well. Service Engine light is no longer blinking but, it is still on.
Brakes really feel soft so I'm going to bleed the brakes next.
Good info too David. The service records is almost three inches thick. Before I replace/service the front drive shaft, I want to see if/when it has been replaced. The U joints in the current front drive shaft do not have grease fittings. We will certainly have to address that but for now if is staying off the freeway until we get new tires.
Also, drivers window is not working (this is annoying) and passenger seat is not adjusting. Any thoughts would be great!
Brakes really feel soft so I'm going to bleed the brakes next.
Good info too David. The service records is almost three inches thick. Before I replace/service the front drive shaft, I want to see if/when it has been replaced. The U joints in the current front drive shaft do not have grease fittings. We will certainly have to address that but for now if is staying off the freeway until we get new tires.
Also, drivers window is not working (this is annoying) and passenger seat is not adjusting. Any thoughts would be great!
#14
#18
If I had misfires and found the fix, I would certainly clear the fault codes via OBD (after any repair) and give it another go to see what, if any, fault codes return.
There are many options for OBD hardware/software. I use a BOsch computer. It's small and does everything. Some people use their phone and accessory dongle plugged into the port. Either way, you will need something so that you aren't back and forth to AAuto.
There are many options for OBD hardware/software. I use a BOsch computer. It's small and does everything. Some people use their phone and accessory dongle plugged into the port. Either way, you will need something so that you aren't back and forth to AAuto.
Last edited by chubbs878; 03-13-2016 at 11:26 AM.
#19
Which two plug wires did you reconnect? The codes you showed included misfires on three cylinders, not two.
The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.
It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.
It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
#20
Which two plug wires did you reconnect? The codes you showed included misfires on three cylinders, not two.
The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.
It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.
It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
I replaced all the plugs tonight with the Champion 7070's That is so ridiculously east. (remind me that when I replace the valve cover gaskets). The Bosch plat I removed looked OK. A bit of rust but electrodes look pretty good except for #7 (drivers side back) the plug looked fowled but it was not one of the codes.
The difference at startup was amazing. The motor is super smooth now. It did throw a code while out driving. Im guessing it is related to the O2 code but I'll get it read tomorrow and report back. I really appreciate the encouragement here.
Still reviewing the Workshop manual for the various electrical issues.