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  #11  
Old 03-11-2016, 11:13 PM
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Rebuild the front drive shaft with serviceable U-joints. There are instructions here, https://landroverforums.com/forum/ge...rebuild-29302/ If you don't want to mess with pressing out old and pressing in new U-joints, you can buy a new drive shaft with serviceable U-joints from several places. I have one from Lucky8.

There are plastic vacuum lines and plastic parts in the cooling system that will have gotten brittle over the years.
 
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  #12  
Old 03-12-2016, 11:29 AM
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Update: I found two plug wires disconnected from plugs. Re attached and WOW runs so nice now. Cleaned out the TB this morning as well. Service Engine light is no longer blinking but, it is still on.
Brakes really feel soft so I'm going to bleed the brakes next.
Good info too David. The service records is almost three inches thick. Before I replace/service the front drive shaft, I want to see if/when it has been replaced. The U joints in the current front drive shaft do not have grease fittings. We will certainly have to address that but for now if is staying off the freeway until we get new tires.
Also, drivers window is not working (this is annoying) and passenger seat is not adjusting. Any thoughts would be great!
 
  #13  
Old 03-12-2016, 04:49 PM
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The cleaning is nothing short of amazing. What the heck was all over it?
 
  #14  
Old 03-12-2016, 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by DiscoBuckeye
Update: I found two plug wires disconnected from plugs. Re attached and WOW runs so nice now.
Uh ..., that'll do it. I'm glad it was that simple. Perhaps the Rover Gods will continue to find favor with you.
 
  #15  
Old 03-12-2016, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Charlie_V
The cleaning is nothing short of amazing. What the heck was all over it?
Moss (not Randy) and mold.
I'm a closet detailer. We did nothing special to clean it so far but we will clay and M205 and see how she cleans up.
 
  #16  
Old 03-12-2016, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by mln01
Uh ..., that'll do it. I'm glad it was that simple. Perhaps the Rover Gods will continue to find favor with you.
Got new plugs I will put them in tomorrow. Hoping they do continue to find favor as well
(Sorry I don't know how to do multiple quotes)
 
  #17  
Old 03-12-2016, 07:29 PM
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Got the codes read tonight:
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SO my question is that if the current monitor showed no misfires does that mean that now that the two plug wire are connect I have no misfires?
Any other insights would be great.
Pic are HUGE! sorry
 

Last edited by DiscoBuckeye; 03-12-2016 at 07:37 PM.
  #18  
Old 03-13-2016, 11:22 AM
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If I had misfires and found the fix, I would certainly clear the fault codes via OBD (after any repair) and give it another go to see what, if any, fault codes return.
There are many options for OBD hardware/software. I use a BOsch computer. It's small and does everything. Some people use their phone and accessory dongle plugged into the port. Either way, you will need something so that you aren't back and forth to AAuto.
 

Last edited by chubbs878; 03-13-2016 at 11:26 AM.
  #19  
Old 03-13-2016, 04:35 PM
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Which two plug wires did you reconnect? The codes you showed included misfires on three cylinders, not two.

The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.

It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
 
  #20  
Old 03-13-2016, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mln01
Which two plug wires did you reconnect? The codes you showed included misfires on three cylinders, not two.

The P1500 is a more serious version of the P0300. Its description is "Catalyst damaging level of misfire on more than one cylinder." That's what caused the Service Engine Soon light to flash.

It's reasonably possible that the misfires on both 2 and 6 caused the P0158.
I wondered that also (Three different cylinders).
I replaced all the plugs tonight with the Champion 7070's That is so ridiculously east. (remind me that when I replace the valve cover gaskets). The Bosch plat I removed looked OK. A bit of rust but electrodes look pretty good except for #7 (drivers side back) the plug looked fowled but it was not one of the codes.
The difference at startup was amazing. The motor is super smooth now. It did throw a code while out driving. Im guessing it is related to the O2 code but I'll get it read tomorrow and report back. I really appreciate the encouragement here.
Still reviewing the Workshop manual for the various electrical issues.
 


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