Putting a Chevy Engine in my Discovery II
#11
08-02-2014, 05:53 PM
5th Gear
#12
08-02-2014, 10:37 PM
Overlanding
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: white bear lake mn
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#13
08-02-2014, 11:33 PM
just to clarify the 4.3l hes installing is a v8 and the more common 4.3l that came in blazers and s10s is a v6. its a smaller displacement and predecessor of the Chevy 350 and the still in production 4.3l v6 is the same bore and stroke as a 350 with two less cylinders. so really if he makes this work it will also be a tutorial of how to swap any small block chevy to a rover (which would be awesome since i have a 465hp one sitting on a stand ive been toying with the idea of swapping myself) but the external block of a 4.3v8-302(called 305)-327-350-400 will all fit provided you use a chevy bellhousing and not a bop one (buck olds pontiac) but then again youd just need a differnt adapter
#14
08-03-2014, 02:35 PM
Hey mike I noticed that you are not to far away from me. If you know of any good trails and want to get together sometime let me know. I'm actually just south of SA, but if you ever need some advice or help my garage isn't too far away.
#15
08-03-2014, 09:18 PM
General Motors small-block engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
L99?
Do you already own one or found one for song? Its a decent motor, but if you are going through the trouble to convert to a GM LT engine there are better options (more bang for basically the same buck).
EDIT: I see you already bought it. I look forward to watching your progress.
L99?
Do you already own one or found one for song? Its a decent motor, but if you are going through the trouble to convert to a GM LT engine there are better options (more bang for basically the same buck).
EDIT: I see you already bought it. I look forward to watching your progress.
Last edited by evoblade; 08-04-2014 at 08:03 AM.
#16
08-04-2014, 10:11 AM
Recovery Vehicle
#18
08-04-2014, 07:45 PM
I already worked out the electrical and computer controlled stuff like shifting, timing and other functions last fall.
I will use Chevy items such as A/C Compressor, Alternator, Starter, Fuel Injection, etc. I will use the Rovers ignition system and also fabricate its power steering and air pump to the left side of the engine.
Once mounted I want to use those Chrome plated Chevy exhaust manifolds.
Also plan to adapt the Rovers cooling system and will make this a dependable every day driver.
The first step was to remove the old engine and get some measurements. The Chevy engine which I purchased last Fall only has a few thousand miles on it so I cleaned it up real good.
I will use Chevy items such as A/C Compressor, Alternator, Starter, Fuel Injection, etc. I will use the Rovers ignition system and also fabricate its power steering and air pump to the left side of the engine.
Once mounted I want to use those Chrome plated Chevy exhaust manifolds.
Also plan to adapt the Rovers cooling system and will make this a dependable every day driver.
The first step was to remove the old engine and get some measurements. The Chevy engine which I purchased last Fall only has a few thousand miles on it so I cleaned it up real good.
#19
08-04-2014, 08:35 PM
But those being carburetor engines with no computers there wasn't much in the way of electronics.
Without going over my specific notes from last fall, the transmission shifting issue was the first thing I played with. Though the Rover engine is toast it still ran well (until it got hot) and I did testing with all sensors removed, it shifted fine as I ran it several miles without issues.
The ignition and electronic fuel system will be used from the Rover which has the same firing order and the fuel system uses the same injectors.
The Chevy engine will actually work very well without a crank sensor installed but I have already modified the distributor to accept the Rovers cam sensor.
But whatever issues I run into will be dealt with and I will report them here.
#20
08-04-2014, 08:41 PM
Some measurement info
The distance between engine base and transmission end of torque converter when installed is 5/16 or 8mm longer in the Rover engine.
That measurement is the total thickness allowed for the adapter plate unless either a shorter torque converter is used or additional distance is achieved by shortening the bell housing.
Marks RV uses a total of 17mm thickness for their adapter plates. Therefore to utilize these adapters (which is probably the best mearsurement to accommodatee attachment bolts) we need to remove a total of 9mm or 3/8” from either or both sides of the bell housing. This can be accomplished by a machine shop and I will report on how much to take off each end to best achieve the objective.
Marks RV solution is to simply use a shorter torque converter from an earlier model Rover. But after consulting with several torque converter, Rover people and bone yards about this my findings are that it’s a very difficult task to find one.
That measurement is the total thickness allowed for the adapter plate unless either a shorter torque converter is used or additional distance is achieved by shortening the bell housing.
Marks RV uses a total of 17mm thickness for their adapter plates. Therefore to utilize these adapters (which is probably the best mearsurement to accommodatee attachment bolts) we need to remove a total of 9mm or 3/8” from either or both sides of the bell housing. This can be accomplished by a machine shop and I will report on how much to take off each end to best achieve the objective.
Marks RV solution is to simply use a shorter torque converter from an earlier model Rover. But after consulting with several torque converter, Rover people and bone yards about this my findings are that it’s a very difficult task to find one.
Last edited by captain1976; 08-04-2014 at 09:23 PM. Reason: left something out