I have a Land Rover D2 and have had many problem with it but the one problem that keeps appearing would be my truck stalling about 6 months ago i took my car to get my crank sensor fixed because it stall in traffic. But every time it would rain or i will hit a pothole my car will go into limp mode and m and s lights would start blinking. So come to find out they did a horrible job with the wiring (messed up the harness) and it is still missed up. Then i decided to take it to a new place and he hired a electrician to make some the wires better but after having my car back for a week I took it on the highway to school and tried to park and it stalled and shut off in reverse.Tired to start it up right away and it started clicking and did not turn over so I waited a couple of minutes and it started up again took it to the mechanic and he said it may be my starter or it may be the fuel pump because he "fixed" the crank sensor. We replaced the stater which was covered in oil from a oil leak that i have now fixed, but i truck has stalled on my since replacing my starter, and reading all of the other post Im thinking it is the crank sensor. So should i buy a new crank sensor and harness or could it be the fuel pump? Someone please help because Im tired of spending money when Im not fixing the problem!! Please Help

 

Check the fuel pressure first before replacing the fuel pump. The stalling sounds like a crank or camshaft position sensor/wiring issue to me are you sure it was replaced with a new one? Also brand new ones have been known to fail. Does it only stall in reverse and are there any codes? The M and S light are transmission related, so the idiot(s) that worked on the car messed up the system and the computer is confused, causing it to go into limp mode.

Your alternator might be going bad too, just another thought.

 

If M&S lights are on, AND there is no check engine light, that is a sign of low voltage (9 volts or less) at the transmission computer. Could be that wiring, could be a ground point for the wiring harnesss, could be bad battery, or dirty battery terminals and follow that black wire to where it bonds to metal chassis of truck and clean that up. Could be bad fuse 12 in underhood fuse box (corrosion).

Bad crank sensors usually show up as a problem when engine is hot, like you stopped at a store, came back out in 2 minutes, and truck won't crank. Cranks when cooled off. To test this kind of problem - check for sparks from a spark plug. If CKP is bad, no sparks. Pour cold water on the CKP, may reset faster than letting engine block cool off.

The starter not rotating the engine when expected to (just clicking) is not the crank position sensor. The starter has wires that need to be clean and tight. If defective, the starter "solenoid" just clicks but does not switch on the starter. But it does the same thing for loose or corroded terminals on the cables that go to it.

The big wires going to starter can be tested by using a set of battery jumper cables to connect from battery (-) to the frame, or from battery (+) to the big wire on starter.

It is important to note that if the (-) wire from battery does not have a good connection to the vehicle frame, both the starter and the electronic transmission will have problems. Follow the negative cable and clean and tighten each place it bonds to the vehicle.

 

How many miles on your engine, do you have a service engine light on, if so what are the fault code numbers?
As for an oil leak, you better replace your valve cover gaskets before you do more electrical issues.

 

Thanks for responds.


Disco Mike -My truck has over 170000. My check engine light is on but the codes that are coming from it are the O2 sensors are bad. The oil leaks i have fixed and also the gaskets.

Savannah Buzz - I haven't had the M and S lights in about two weeks. I am not doubting the harness is bad the other mechinac spliced the wire to the crank sensor (at least a couple of ways back). Also my battery is not giving all of the volts, and now that i have replaced the starter it does not click any more it turns over but does not fire to start if the makes sense.

LRScott - My mechanic is checking the fuel pressure today. I am not sure they replaces it with a new one. But from what my new mechanic told me the crank sensor is good but the wiring is horrible. It stalls after i have come off the highway going 70-75 for 10min. Then when i try to park and put the car in reverse it shuts off the radio stays on and of course the battery light and the oil light stays on but no power in the engine . I cant start the car up right away but i wait 30 min or so and it starts back up. It is running rough to me its shaking. Also when coming off the highway in traffic the truck jerked like it was going to turn off but i let up off the brake and i made it to work.

 

Important point - the CKP sensor uses a shielded wire to keep out electrical noise. If it was spliced improperly, that would cause problems. The CKP sensor routinely fails by not working when engine block is hot, like after driving, then parking or stopping. When the block cools, the sensor begins working again. When sensor is not working sparks are either not there, or could be scrambled. You can speed up recovery to normal by pouring cold water on the sensor.

In other words, a bottle of cold branch water poured on it may confirm it is the sensor.

 

Savannah Buzz - Thank you so much. So to solve all of this should i get a whole new wiring harness and should i rule out the fuel pump? Also can you tell me what these codes mean that the other mechanic that messed the whole thing up gave me.
Also i have problems with my speedometer and tachometer when the jerking happens the tachometer raises and the speedometer is slow in rising to my speed does this have to do with my crank sensor.

Traus Fault
I.D 23
# 035
CAN message N_Mot
invalid (Flag F_N_Mot)



Eng. Fault
I.D. 5E
#094
Evaporative eoutrol systeou large leak detected.

I.D. 6F
#111
Reference Mark detector fault (reluctor wheel)

If this makes any sense to you please let me know because i have no clue what its says.
Thank you in advance

 

I like the last one. It means the ECU can't see the index space in the reluctor disk. The disk in a D1 is a series of tabs, they can get bent. In a D2 it is a drilled disk, nothing to bend. The CKP is mounted where it almost touches the disk. If the sensor is bent or the nose covered with metal fuzz or the sensor is spaced wrong, this could result. The senor makes an electrical voltaged based on the reluctor disk flying by.

The transmission talks to the engine computer on the CAN buss, so wiring problems could be there.

 

Okay so all of this is caused by the wiring and is their any way to just replace that wiring?