Standard vs. Synthetic oil ?
#11
This subject is discussed by every car forum out there in the world. There is no doubt that synthetic oil will out perform regular motor oil, in wear and cleanliness.
From breaking down a many rotary engines, two-strokes, and four-strokes, I have seen what both can do to an engine. There are many variances of why engines leak, so that is a moot point. Yeah, synthetics ability to provide wear resistance, obviously.
Also, we should all know what gasoline naturally does in an engine besides combust, it creates carbon. What I notice between the oils are two things, the flash point and the control of carbon. Synthetics will out perform by providing better control of those two issue, which = a cleaner and better running engine.
From breaking down a many rotary engines, two-strokes, and four-strokes, I have seen what both can do to an engine. There are many variances of why engines leak, so that is a moot point. Yeah, synthetics ability to provide wear resistance, obviously.
Also, we should all know what gasoline naturally does in an engine besides combust, it creates carbon. What I notice between the oils are two things, the flash point and the control of carbon. Synthetics will out perform by providing better control of those two issue, which = a cleaner and better running engine.
#12
IMHO the marketting departments have convinced many people that with synthetics they won't need to change oils so often, and that may be true, but many users expand that to unreasonable times, especially when the same size filter only holds so much gunk. Change early and often, do't go 7500 miles on it, and use a diesel rated oil (Rotella, Delvac, etc.) for the cleaning you need. We are driving a truck, 40 or 50 weight oil. 10W40 rated in this vehicle for -10 to +55 C, which covers a lot of territory. 10W30 has no improvement on low temp rating, and reduces high temp rating, so why bother? 5W40 is a good winter choice if you need that "nip in the air" performance.
#13
Royal Purple and Amsoil are one of the few oils that are 100% synthetic. Mobil 1 is not even a full synthetic oil, it only has synthetic detergents just like most other "synthetic" oils. That is one of the reasons why I use regular Rotella and change it every 4-5k miles. Most synthetic oils are a racquet if you ask me.
#14
royal purple and amsoil are one of the few oils that are 100% synthetic. Mobil 1 is not even a full synthetic oil, it only has synthetic detergents just like most other "synthetic" oils. That is one of the reasons why i use regular rotella and change it every 4-5k miles. Most synthetic oils are a racquet if you ask me.
#15
If it can hold up to a truck pulling 80,000lbs up a steep grade in 100*F heat it can stand up to your Rover idling in the drive thru in 100*F heat.
#16
#17
If you keep your eyes open NAPA runs BOGO sales and I stock up when they do.
Alot of guys run the larger oil filter, I do not although I have nothing against doing it.
#18
Thanks for the info. Spike. How do these NAPA and Purolator oil filters stack up against Mobil1 or Bosch or K&N? Don't they have some rating like... so many microns it can catch or something like that. I don't know the exact terminology or whatever but, are they comparable to these filters or are these more expensive filters truly any better? Just curious, Thanks again.
#19
WIX 51459 provides 1.3 quarts of capacity, seven inches long. It is not as fine a mesh filter as the Mobile 1, which can go down to 10 microns. But if you are changing often, you are reducing that need, especially if you are the last in a long line of owners. It is also carried as NAPA Gold.
#20
FWIW I run a Wix 51515 in my D2 for the larger capacity. I'll try to remember to check the Wix catalog for micron rating at work tomorrow.
Quick search of Wix website shows 21 micron, 7-9GPM, drain-back valve, 8-11PSI bypass valve setting
Quick search of Wix website shows 21 micron, 7-9GPM, drain-back valve, 8-11PSI bypass valve setting
Last edited by lordmorpheus; 08-26-2011 at 10:54 PM.