Aftermarket airfilter
Hi- I’m in the process of getting an aftermarket air filter and cabin filter for my Bronco and thought “why don’t I do this for the Defender too?”
anyone have a good recommendation for aftermarket air and cabin filters for the 110 defender?
I was looking at AFE dry filters for the Bronco. They don’t have a defender one but do have for the Disco, will that one work?
anyone have a good recommendation for aftermarket air and cabin filters for the 110 defender?
I was looking at AFE dry filters for the Bronco. They don’t have a defender one but do have for the Disco, will that one work?
K&N makes both for the Defender.
K&N: P300
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-l4-gas/2022/
K&N: P400
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-l6-gas/2022/
K&N: V8
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-v8-gas/2022/
K&N: P300
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-l4-gas/2022/
K&N: P400
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-l6-gas/2022/
K&N: V8
https://www.knfilters.com/land-rover...l-v8-gas/2022/
Personally, I pass on K&N. The technology was tried on aircraft and we have kinds of AD's and bulletins on them. The big issue is they clog up logarithmically, vice linearly. The second item, is if you are in a really dusty situation you can remove your paper filter and beat it on the ground. This clears up at least some of the accumulation until your home. Not exactly possible with K&N, where you have to clean them and re-spray them.
The flow difference is negligible on new filters, across all brands. If your worried or feel you need every last erg of energy your vehicle can produce, change frequently. K&N style filters on aircraft must be thrown away every year, by law. Conversely, my paper filter on my present aircraft (which costs a king's ransom new) lasts 500 hours, or about 6 years.
The OEM JLR supplied filter is not made by JLR, but one of the many aftermarket makers, which I admit I have no idea who they are using at the moment. They seem to switch around from Mann to the other, whose name is just on the tip of my tongue. Same goes for their oil filters and pollen/cabin filters.
It's an air filter, don't obsess over it, don't cheap out, but really it does not make that big of a difference in the long run. Better to put you money into those things they sold in the 70's that let your car run on water. There is a lot of snake oil advertising about performance. Think about it. If JLR could get a measurable boost in performance for the cost of a slightly better air filter, why would they not do it and advertise the hell out of this new cool feature. I liked the filter on the Series vehicles, oil bath metal mesh. You actually changed the oil in the filter's sump, scraped out the dirt and refilled it. Worked brilliantly. Was a bit on the large size. As for performance, heck, the old Land Rover's invented hills that where imperceptible to the eye they where so underpowered, who could tell.
The flow difference is negligible on new filters, across all brands. If your worried or feel you need every last erg of energy your vehicle can produce, change frequently. K&N style filters on aircraft must be thrown away every year, by law. Conversely, my paper filter on my present aircraft (which costs a king's ransom new) lasts 500 hours, or about 6 years.
The OEM JLR supplied filter is not made by JLR, but one of the many aftermarket makers, which I admit I have no idea who they are using at the moment. They seem to switch around from Mann to the other, whose name is just on the tip of my tongue. Same goes for their oil filters and pollen/cabin filters.
It's an air filter, don't obsess over it, don't cheap out, but really it does not make that big of a difference in the long run. Better to put you money into those things they sold in the 70's that let your car run on water. There is a lot of snake oil advertising about performance. Think about it. If JLR could get a measurable boost in performance for the cost of a slightly better air filter, why would they not do it and advertise the hell out of this new cool feature. I liked the filter on the Series vehicles, oil bath metal mesh. You actually changed the oil in the filter's sump, scraped out the dirt and refilled it. Worked brilliantly. Was a bit on the large size. As for performance, heck, the old Land Rover's invented hills that where imperceptible to the eye they where so underpowered, who could tell.
I don't know of any other aftermarket filters, but I'm sure there are a bunch out there.
I'm not using the K&N, I have in the past on other vehicles, with good results...but never felt the extra HP. I decided to stick with OEM because is was engineered by LR for the engine.
I don't know of any other aftermarket filters, but I'm sure there are a bunch out there.
I don't know of any other aftermarket filters, but I'm sure there are a bunch out there.
that have been debunked thoroughly. Most air filters are on par with each other, just avoid the cheaper, no-name brands. And change them regularly, or in between changes, pull it out, tap it gently to remove any large particles and if you have compressed air or a shop-vac on blower mode, blow against the direction of the air flow indicated on the side of the filter. That’ll give you extra life until the next change.
forced induction engines love better air flow in and out. a KN will flow much better than the stock but you have to deal with the piling of the filter. If you are off-roading i would stay with the stock filter
that being said i have RAM intake system on my v8. it’s a complete intake system with an open air cone. i added them purely for the increased supercharger whine
that being said i have RAM intake system on my v8. it’s a complete intake system with an open air cone. i added them purely for the increased supercharger whine
These companies spend a lot on marketing and advertising but no air filter will provide extra ‘horsepower’. Those are claims
that have been debunked thoroughly. Most air filters are on par with each other, just avoid the cheaper, no-name brands. And change them regularly, or in between changes, pull it out, tap it gently to remove any large particles and if you have compressed air or a shop-vac on blower mode, blow against the direction of the air flow indicated on the side of the filter. That’ll give you extra life until the next change.
that have been debunked thoroughly. Most air filters are on par with each other, just avoid the cheaper, no-name brands. And change them regularly, or in between changes, pull it out, tap it gently to remove any large particles and if you have compressed air or a shop-vac on blower mode, blow against the direction of the air flow indicated on the side of the filter. That’ll give you extra life until the next change.
The actual reason we have to throw them away in aircraft is they chunk pieces after the age a bit. Apparently the induction systems don't like solid chunks and have bad reactions to them. So in a bit of caution, I step gingerly over the dead bodies of early adopters and avoid stuff that can kill you in the air. Extends to the ground operations, just hopefully without the dead body part.
forced induction engines love better air flow in and out. a KN will flow much better than the stock but you have to deal with the piling of the filter. If you are off-roading i would stay with the stock filter
that being said i have RAM intake system on my v8. it’s a complete intake system with an open air cone. i added them purely for the increased supercharger whine
that being said i have RAM intake system on my v8. it’s a complete intake system with an open air cone. i added them purely for the increased supercharger whine
company is literally called Ram Air out of england
https://ramairusa.com/proram-inducti...663-p525-2021/
https://ramairusa.com/proram-inducti...663-p525-2021/
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