Recently when towing our travel trailer I’ve noticed the connection to the right blinker stops working intermittently. Anyone else had similar issues? Would dialectic or carbon conductive grease work to improve the connection? Unfortunately when it loses that connection the trailer brakes also fail to come on automatically - having to be manually actuated. Thanks for any suggestions!

 

Dielectric isn't going to improve any connection that wasn't shorting out due to moisture since it's purpose is to seal a connection and it doesn't conduct electricity.

Carbon conductive might help, though it ASSumes the problem is THAT connector and specifically the connection on that wire pin.

I would be tempted to wiggle test/tap test the connector and harness all the way back to the right turn signal on the trailer. It's just as likely that you've got a loose wire or ground. In fact loose grounds are a common problem when the trailer harness grounds through the light mount. Corrosion or a loose fastener there can just as likely be the cause.

 

I agree with @Kev M . The #1 problem with most trailers I've had/dealt with is a bad ground. If it's only the turn signal - test the ground. Likely it is grounded to the trailer. If so, take the light unit out, sand down the ground contacts and put together. I would put down a donut bet that it will take care of the prob.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. Question though, the bigger issue is that the brake controller doesn’t actuate the brakes when I apply mine; the turn signal essential tells me the brakes won’t fire unless I manually trigger it on the controller - need to have both left/right connections good for the brakes to auto fire. At slow speeds (<25mph) it seems to work but at highway speeds it intermittently works. I’m using the Curt Echo Bluetooth brake controller. Would a bad ground cause that or more likely the connection? Both male and female connectors are clean.

 

Start with checking where the ground attaches to the trailer. You either have a 4-flat or a 7/6-round connector. On both, there's going to be a white wire coming out of the connector on the trailer side. Check where that attaches to the trailer. Make sure it is "fresh" and not worn. Often it goes directly to the tongue of the trailer without going to a junction box and grounding there. Follow that white wire and pull it off the trailer, clean to metal using sandpaper, whatever, and then re-attach. If you have it, you'll want to use a ring-connector that is heat-shrunk ( ). Pull the screw/bolt that connects the wire to the trailer. It is likely just bare wires (major problem). Clean the tongue where it connects to bare metal, put a ring connector on there and screw/bolt it back. The ground from the vehicle is a #1 culprit.

If you have a good ground and the ground at the brake/light (you can "tone" it or multi-meter check it if you have a good ground), then you have a Defender problem and bring it to the Dealer. Do not pass Go, do not collect $200. And then you have my deep sympathy....

After checking the white ground, Post if that doesn't work and I'll post how to follow the blue/white/ground to the brake controllers.

 

Thanks! I’ll try that tomorrow.

 

Thought I’d post an update. I checked the grounds but they all looked good. I think I traced the issue back to my electronic sway control system, I found water in the connector. I cleaned it out and jiggled the connection and it seemed to work. I’ll probably put some carbon conductive grease on as well to see if that helps.

 

I thought we were not supposed to use a sway controller because of the frame. And because the advanced towing system with the use of air suspension corrects when the trailer starts to sway?

 

My understanding was that JLR recommended not using a WDH. The WDH mutes the movement of the trailer so the Defender doesn’t react very fast via the trailer stability assistance electronics, and it puts additional stress on the unibody frame.

I’ve been using a Hayes Electronic Sway Control system (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hayes-Sw...75/312242708); it works as I’ve felt it correct multiple incidents without hesitation. I don’t believe JLR has any recommendations for/against this type of aid.

 

I think what they recommend is not using Weight Distribution Hitches. I haven't seen anything about not using controllers. But that doesn't mean it isn't out there somewhere!! If someone finds something, please post - but I think @MNDefender was correct.

Then again, I don't know which is more ominous: a Warning or a Caution. I'm thinking I'll pay attention to both in this case.