Best offroad Jack that fits under load space?
#31
#33
@dogwind - I bought two "adapters". The first one was the one from Safe Jack (Link). I felt it was expensive for what it was at $39. But, you do get the pride of "Made in USA". If I had a bit more time and some spare steel it wouldn't be hard to weld. Unfortunately, I'm much better at woodworking than metalworking. It works very well in my 6-ton bottle jack and I suspect just as well in an 8. I added some rulers in case you wanted to confirm the end of your bottle jack. I was going to take a pic of it with a 20-ton jack that my son is refurbishing, but that was way too big. Big meaning the diameter of the threaded bottle-jack end (sorry don't know the technical term). For the Defender it worked well for me.
I also got what I lovingly refer to as the "hockey puck". The sucker is huge and is some sort of rubber/soft plastic material. This was way cheaper at $13, but it is definitely an Alibamazon Chinese knock off ( ). We'll see how long it lasts. It absolutely will not work with a bottle jack as is. It does, however, work exceedingly well with my floor jack. I have a "tube" that I put on the end for larger trucks and the circle in the bottom fits it perfectly. In a couple weeks when my new wheel sets are ready, I'll post more pics of it in action, but it does a great job "nesting" the weird-arsed lift point under the Defender. I also plan to take a large forstner bit to it and drill out a bit of a divot under it to see if it would then be able to go on a bottle-jack. It's cheap enough to try the experiment and, fortunately, I already have a ton of different sizes of forstner bits to use to drill it out. Likely one of them will be the right size (slightly larger than whatever the end of my bottle-jack is).
To answer your Q, I think all Huskey Jacks are what I call a floor jack. If so, I would NOT recommend the Safety Jack fitting. It is WAY too narrow. I would go with the Hockey puck above. Good luck.
Alibamazon knock off on left. Solid steel on right.
Left best for floor jacks, smaller bottle jacks on the right.
I also got what I lovingly refer to as the "hockey puck". The sucker is huge and is some sort of rubber/soft plastic material. This was way cheaper at $13, but it is definitely an Alibamazon Chinese knock off ( ). We'll see how long it lasts. It absolutely will not work with a bottle jack as is. It does, however, work exceedingly well with my floor jack. I have a "tube" that I put on the end for larger trucks and the circle in the bottom fits it perfectly. In a couple weeks when my new wheel sets are ready, I'll post more pics of it in action, but it does a great job "nesting" the weird-arsed lift point under the Defender. I also plan to take a large forstner bit to it and drill out a bit of a divot under it to see if it would then be able to go on a bottle-jack. It's cheap enough to try the experiment and, fortunately, I already have a ton of different sizes of forstner bits to use to drill it out. Likely one of them will be the right size (slightly larger than whatever the end of my bottle-jack is).
To answer your Q, I think all Huskey Jacks are what I call a floor jack. If so, I would NOT recommend the Safety Jack fitting. It is WAY too narrow. I would go with the Hockey puck above. Good luck.
Alibamazon knock off on left. Solid steel on right.
Left best for floor jacks, smaller bottle jacks on the right.
Last edited by GrouseK9; 02-11-2022 at 02:57 PM.
#34
@sarek - I noticed you brought a Pro Eagle to SCARR '22. Which model is it and what accessories were those? My original floor jack (circa 1980) is giving up the ghost and I'm thinking of an upgrade. Thanks for any insights.
Edit: I think it is the "Talon".
Edit: I think it is the "Talon".
Last edited by GrouseK9; 04-26-2022 at 08:25 PM.
#35
I mentioned jacking twice. What this does is allows the suspension to extend all the way. If you then look at the jack, there is typically two to three more inches of hight. This allows you to do a couple of things, unscrew the jack a bit more to compensate, or put another piece of wood under the jack. The other technique I found on the old range Rover 322, was to use the factory jack to get some height, not too terribly much, then extend the hydraulic jack all the way and finish jacking as needed. Sometimes, I could pull the jack out and others I had to lift it with the factory jack a tiny amount, pull the hydraulic jack out and then lower the factory jack. In a pinch, you can try the swing arms. You do need to find the magic spot on them the jack will not just slide off. There are also spots you can dent the arms, they are not too terribly thick. They are parts you do not want to put a stress riser on by denting it. Since JLR went to great lengths to lighten the vehicle, they only have a few strong points to jack from. I am actually thinking of putting some marks on the alternative jack points. Which seem to be of some kind of high strength plastic. The rear one is kind of small on the 90, well at least smaller than illustrated in the jackingandlifting guide. I am using the same Sears Craftsmen jack for the last ¼ century. When they existed, they actually had a nice selection of hydraulic bottle jacks. I also have a very weird hydraulic scissor jack. I originally got it for a Jenson Healy I had (yes cool but foolishly unreliable car). It was super low. That scissor jack has been relegated to most two stage jacking projects. I really have never seen the like since. I would love a new one and would most likely carry it. Sadly mine leaks like the White House Press Office. It would leave a puddle where it sat like one of those hideous rat dogs.
The following 2 users liked this post by Dogpilot:
GrouseK9 (06-29-2022),
TrioLRowner (06-29-2022)
#37
@sarek - I noticed you brought a Pro Eagle to SCARR '22. Which model is it and what accessories were those? My original floor jack (circa 1980) is giving up the ghost and I'm thinking of an upgrade. Thanks for any insights.
Edit: I think it is the "Talon".
Edit: I think it is the "Talon".
#38
For additional safety when changing tires, this is worth considering. Just need to raise to full off road height before starting. there should be no need to fuss with jacking up from access or comfort height and then trying to extend the jack. Just raise the car to off road height before doing any jacking and let the car do the initial lifting for you. Powerbuilt 3 Ton, Bottle Jack and Jack Stands in One, 6000 Pound All-in-One Car Lift, Heavy Duty Vehicle Unijack, 640912 https://a.co/d/421bca7
#39
@GrouseK9 You ever get an answer on this? I need a new jack and have been looking at the Pro Eagle. But damn are they expensive. The 1.5 ton is over $100 cheaper than the 2 ton, but the Defender is a heavy b*tch, so I am trying to decide. Plus I wanted to know if it would fit in the jack space in the back with a bit of modification to the foam insert.
#40