Best offroad Jack that fits under load space?
#51
01-15-2023, 09:40 AM
Rock Crawling
What seems to be missing from vendor info is how high the jack actually lifts. The max height can always be increased by adding jack extensions or putting the jack on blocks. The problem I'm facing is once the fully retracted bottle jack is snugged up against the jack point using either method, it doesn't extend enough to get the tire off the ground. So even if the max height of the Badlands jack is 29", if it only lifts 5" it's not going to get the tire off the ground. I don't think the vendor is suggesting their jack has 23" of lift.
#52
01-29-2023, 01:01 AM
Mudding
For additional safety when changing tires, this is worth considering. Just need to raise to full off road height before starting. there should be no need to fuss with jacking up from access or comfort height and then trying to extend the jack. Just raise the car to off road height before doing any jacking and let the car do the initial lifting for you. Powerbuilt 3 Ton, Bottle Jack and Jack Stands in One, 6000 Pound All-in-One Car Lift, Heavy Duty Vehicle Unijack, 640912 https://a.co/d/421bca7
#53
01-29-2023, 08:39 AM
The following 2 users liked this post by Tartan:
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#54
04-09-2023, 10:53 PM
I took advantage of a warm day to try my new jacking toys - always try them in the driveway before trying in the real world, of course. First, thanks to all who contributed to this thread; I learned a lot and made my purchases based on your recommendations.
Here’s what I’m working with:
- 2023 Defender 110 with coil springs
- SafeJack bottle jack kit.
- Pinch weld frame pad (https://safejacks.com/collections/bo...weld-frame-pad)
- Hi-Lift ORB Off Road Base https://a.co/d/gDAkcwd
Some lessons-learned:
1. Even with coil springs, these trucks like to droop. I had to jack pretty high to get the tire off the ground. But I didn’t start high - I used the smallest jack extension that came in the kit (in between the jack itself and the pinch weld frame pad). The longer extensions would have made the thing to tall to fit under the car.
2. The bottle jack that came in the Safe Jack kit fits nicely into the rectangular “well” on the top of the ORB. Too nicely. There isn’t much room between the base of the jack and the lip of the rectangular well. Which meant that after I had pumped up the jack, I couldn’t get the jack handle onto the little bolt to turn it to release the pressure and let the vehicle down; the bolt was too close to the lip. I had to go get a vise grip to turn it a quarter turn at a time.
I think I will invert the base if I need to use it in the real world, so I have a nice flat, wide surface and can get to the bolt when it’s time.
3. The pinch weld frame pad has a 90-degree (right angle edges) channel; it’s flat on the bottom. But our Defenders have a V—shaped weld that the Jack pad has to mate to (the scissor Jack that came with the Defender has a V-shaped pad of course). Moreover, the vehicle jacking point’s V is wider than the Safe Jack frame pad channel. Which means the vehicle’s weld got stuck in the frame pad when the sharp edges at the top of the channel cut into the metal of the jacking point. When I lowered the jack, the frame pad didn’t release. I tried prying it off by inserting a screwdriver, but only came close to bending the screwdriver. In the end, I had to tap it with a hammer, alternating between taps to the jack pad and taps to the base of the jack, to get it to slide off of the jacking point. Not good, and I’m sure I scratched the paint on the jacking point.
I don’t think the other pads that came in the kit would be better: they are either flat or a wide U shape (to put under an axel, I assume?). They won’t be secure on the jacking point either.
So that’s what I learned today. I’ll keep the scissor Jack in the boot when I go off-road. If the ground is stable enough, and the vehicle is basically level, it’s going to be much easier to lower and remove.
Here’s what I’m working with:
- 2023 Defender 110 with coil springs
- SafeJack bottle jack kit.
- Pinch weld frame pad (https://safejacks.com/collections/bo...weld-frame-pad)
- Hi-Lift ORB Off Road Base https://a.co/d/gDAkcwd
Some lessons-learned:
1. Even with coil springs, these trucks like to droop. I had to jack pretty high to get the tire off the ground. But I didn’t start high - I used the smallest jack extension that came in the kit (in between the jack itself and the pinch weld frame pad). The longer extensions would have made the thing to tall to fit under the car.
2. The bottle jack that came in the Safe Jack kit fits nicely into the rectangular “well” on the top of the ORB. Too nicely. There isn’t much room between the base of the jack and the lip of the rectangular well. Which meant that after I had pumped up the jack, I couldn’t get the jack handle onto the little bolt to turn it to release the pressure and let the vehicle down; the bolt was too close to the lip. I had to go get a vise grip to turn it a quarter turn at a time.
I think I will invert the base if I need to use it in the real world, so I have a nice flat, wide surface and can get to the bolt when it’s time.
3. The pinch weld frame pad has a 90-degree (right angle edges) channel; it’s flat on the bottom. But our Defenders have a V—shaped weld that the Jack pad has to mate to (the scissor Jack that came with the Defender has a V-shaped pad of course). Moreover, the vehicle jacking point’s V is wider than the Safe Jack frame pad channel. Which means the vehicle’s weld got stuck in the frame pad when the sharp edges at the top of the channel cut into the metal of the jacking point. When I lowered the jack, the frame pad didn’t release. I tried prying it off by inserting a screwdriver, but only came close to bending the screwdriver. In the end, I had to tap it with a hammer, alternating between taps to the jack pad and taps to the base of the jack, to get it to slide off of the jacking point. Not good, and I’m sure I scratched the paint on the jacking point.
I don’t think the other pads that came in the kit would be better: they are either flat or a wide U shape (to put under an axel, I assume?). They won’t be secure on the jacking point either.
So that’s what I learned today. I’ll keep the scissor Jack in the boot when I go off-road. If the ground is stable enough, and the vehicle is basically level, it’s going to be much easier to lower and remove.
The following 3 users liked this post by Mike_F:
#56
04-15-2023, 08:09 PM
Rock Crawling
#58
04-16-2023, 07:54 PM
#59
04-18-2023, 10:03 AM
