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Best place to purchase rear brake pads?

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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 02:56 PM
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Default Best place to purchase rear brake pads?

Hey guys,

I am looking to replace my rear brake pads on my 110 - where is the best American based(trying to bypass tariffs if possible) source to purchase the rear pads? Prices seem to be all over the place, and I'm not savvy on what aftermarket(if there are better routes than oem) but the OEM ones have lasted me 92k miles and was just told I should replace them in the near future.

Thanks in advance for any insights from you guys.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 04:49 PM
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i got all my brake stuff from landleaping.com

FCP euro is also a good source for parts and fluids.


More info here.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...e3/#post925319
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 04:59 PM
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Firstly, you always are here to help and I greatly appreciate the time you take to respond to questions here - especially mine.

I searched brake pads and oddly enough your post never popped up, while others did, which I looked over before hand. Great write up with photos.

I'm assuming I only need to replace the pads and not the sensors since the warning message hasn't creeped up yet.

On land leaping I was a bit confused because when I type in my VIN, it brings up the ones I need, but the description says for 20/22 inch wheels, which I have 19 from factory. I was going to reach out to them just to make sure that won't be a problem for mine
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 05:45 PM
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Just did the rear pads on my 110, and after numerous searches ended up going to my dealer where the price surprisingly enough was about the same as most aftermarket. Went with the OEM and can’t tell the difference, they are like the day I took delivery.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 05:48 PM
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Thanks I reached out to my local Dealership (Land Rover Marin) to see the pricing. I feel everything is a bit more expensive at that dealership than it likely should be. For example they quoted me $750 to program my new headlight I installed, when a certified mechanic quoted me $150 (1 hour labor) so I dont expect them to be much cheaper. They also quoted me I think like 4k for the 60k service when the local certified mechanic did it for 1500. I may have my nicer slightly off as I've posted the specifics here before, but it's crazy how much they hike up the prices. Though as mentioned I did reach out asking for pricing. Otherwise I'll go with land leaping, as I'm impressed my brakes lasted this long (fronts are still healthy too)
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 06:25 PM
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@KamboMD would you mind sharing the info for the indie mechanic you use?
 
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KamboMD
Firstly, you always are here to help and I greatly appreciate the time you take to respond to questions here - especially mine.

I searched brake pads and oddly enough your post never popped up, while others did, which I looked over before hand. Great write up with photos.

I'm assuming I only need to replace the pads and not the sensors since the warning message hasn't creeped up yet.

On land leaping I was a bit confused because when I type in my VIN, it brings up the ones I need, but the description says for 20/22 inch wheels, which I have 19 from factory. I was going to reach out to them just to make sure that won't be a problem for mine
This is a common source of confusion. The distinction relates to the 3 sizes of rotors and their corresponding pads

in North America

smallest. P300 18” rims

largest V8 and some P400 X trims that came on 22” rims

Medium Every other model (Octa excluded as I’ve no idea on it)

ie. 19” rim means everything else. Doesn’t matter if you have 19 or 20.

yours is in the everything else category. Same as mine. P400 that is not and X on 22”s

Get the pads for the 19” 20”
rim if that is the confusing nomenclature they use. Landleaping are very helpful and will confirm part numbers.


on the replacing wear sensors. Instructions state to replace the rear one regardless. Front one only if it’s been triggered I couldn’t figure out why till I did both.

The front one requires removing the wheel arch liner to get to it. The rear one is easily accessible.

So I think it’s just a $$/time metric for service.
I see no actual difference in them and if doing it again would not replace the rear one unless it had been triggered.

They’re not that brittle at all. Easily pop off and on. I went aftermarket on the front one save a few bucks identical to OEM

Always happy to share what little I’ve learned Thanks mate
 

Last edited by GavinC; Jan 31, 2026 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by mammoth
@KamboMD would you mind sharing the info for the indie mechanic you use?
yes are you local? I’m in Glen Ellen(Sonoma county) so up here I’ve been using Metric Motors which is in Sonoma and previous senior technician for Land Rover.

I’ve also recently discovered SF European which is in San Rafael, which is certified and also certified McLaren so I use them for my McLaren and they are cheaper with their quotes on my Defender requests.

SF European also has service cars to provide while working on your vehicle. But I have not had them do any work on my Defender, just my McLaren.
 

Last edited by KamboMD; Jan 31, 2026 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Jan 31, 2026 | 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by GavinC
This is a common source of confusion. The distinction relates to the 3 sizes of rotors and their corresponding pads

in North America

smallest. P300 18” rims

largest V8 and some P400 X trims that came on 22” rims

Medium Every other model (Octa excluded as I’ve no idea on it)

ie. 19” rim means everything else. Doesn’t matter if you have 19 or 20.

yours is in the everything else category. Same as mine. P400 that is not and X on 22”s

Get the pads for the 19” 20”
rim if that is the confusing nomenclature they use. Landleaping are very helpful and will confirm part numbers.


on the replacing wear sensors. Instructions state to replace the rear one regardless. Front one only if it’s been triggered I couldn’t figure out why till I did both.

The front one requires removing the wheel arch liner to get to it. The rear one is easily accessible.

So I think it’s just a $$/time metric for service.
I see no actual difference in them and if doing it again would not replace the rear one unless it had been triggered.

They’re not that brittle at all. Easily pop off and on. I went aftermarket on the front one save a few bucks identical to OEM

Always happy to share what little I’ve learned Thanks mate
wonderful, I’ll buy the sensors as well!
 
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Old Feb 4, 2026 | 11:37 AM
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FYI - regardless from where you source pads or have perform the work, in my experience (and my surprise) it's the OEM pad that performs the best. I've tried a few different after market brands and none seem to last as long as the OEM pad.
 
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