When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Possibly could be the same as the l405 wpb manually setting service mode. Search in YouTube for an l405 rear brake replacement diy video. It’s a kid doing rear brakes on a pre facelift l405 in a parking lot, mobile mechanic style. He gets in the driver seat and it’s something with key off hold ebrake switch press the ignition button on then off and release or some thing like that. He explains it in the video. Worked great on my 2019 Range Rover. Very possible that same procedure will manually put the epb into service mode on the defender. And if it doesn’t, no harm down other than a few minutes wasted.
When changing the rear pads, is it possible to do them if you don’t own a Gap tool? Is there a way to put it in Service Mode to prevent the Electronic Parking Brake from activating. Years ago while performing a pads/rotor change on my Range Rover Evoque, the EPB kicked in and pushed the piston out of the caliper. Was a PITA to get it back in. Would like to avoid any surprises when I decide to change pads and rotors on my ‘22 Defender.
It’s pretty simple to disengage the EPB and have the car jacked up. I did it without GAP when I trimmed my calipers.
once they’re disengaged you could disconnect battery and the EPB can’t possibly reengage.
change pads as normal. Reconnect battery and calibrate in the manner specified when approved JLR diagnostic tool is not used.
Rotors are fine
Pads have about 1mm remaining (Edit: before the wear sensor is involved, see last picture )
One more reason if you needed one to own a GAP IiD tool.
Activate ABS service mode with GAP tool
Remove some fluid from brake reservoir.
Chock the front wheels. Jack the rear.
Pop off wheels (one side at a time is fine)
Remove EPB electrical connector
Remove caliper
Remove and replace pads, anti rattle springs.
Remove and replace wear sensor (RHS only)
Use special tool to retract the EPB piston
Reposition caliper
Wheels back on.
Apply sequential pressure to brakes till a firm brake is felt.
Disengage service mode
Activate EPB.
Adjust brake fluid levels to max.
Test drive. .
All went very smoothly. I’ll do the fronts next.
Remove fluid to prevent overflow
T outside. M inside
Readjust fluid levels
GAP IiD ABS service mode
35 Nm on guide pins.
[img alt="
Wear sensor on old pad. "]https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/landroverforums.com-vbulletin/1240x2000/ec4e8963_7136_4829_a0de_032f095d3838_8f5157a83b6db 6621f7a0d916c0e36c9d287aeea.jpeg[/img] Wear sensor on old pad.
I have similar mileage on my Defender and I began sourcing my brake parts last night. I've done brakes on all of my cars and visually looking at my rears I can't believe it's about 1 to 2 mm left on the pads. @GavinC Did you inspect the brake lines in the rear? The 63k service maintenance said to replace the brake lines. (I've never replaced any of my LR brake lines in the past) If so how did they look? In the pics they looked good.
I have similar mileage on my Defender and I began sourcing my brake parts last night. I've done brakes on all of my cars and visually looking at my rears I can't believe it's about 1 to 2 mm left on the pads. @GavinC Did you inspect the brake lines in the rear? The 63k service maintenance said to replace the brake lines. (I've never replaced any of my LR brake lines in the past) If so how did they look? In the pics they looked good.
The 63k service states to replace the flexible brake lines only. I believe this to be just the bendy break line immediately next to the caliper. Not the whole system back to the fluid reservoir.
I suppose it's just a precautionary measure. Perhaps they dry and crack over time. I don't know The flexible lines looked fine. Not sure what I'm supposed to be looking for but they seemed to be in good shape.
On the 1-2mm. I'm not sure where I should measure from but the pad material was looking very thin. I think my wear sensor would have been involved very soon. I think at almost 60,000 miles the rear pads owe me nothing so I'm happy to swap them out.
This was a very straightforward job. I've never done pads before so as usual was as slow as a wet week. Removing the old brake pad wear sensor was fiddly. A car trim tool popped it off with ease once I got the right one in there. Probably an hour or so for someone who's done it before.
You don't need a hanger or zip tie for the caliper. Just rest it on the tire that's off.
I wasn't sure how much crud to take off the caliper so just made sure the mating faces were nice and clean and that the piston seals were clean and in good shape. A little work with a wire brush on the caliper but more of a spit and shine than a thorough clean. I didn't want to damage any of the rubber components by being too ham-handed.
@GavinC most of your readers won't understand this reference: "as slow as a wet week."
I laughed.
Well done on the brakes and, the writeup.
Cheers mate. Thanks.
Originally Posted by Jbiggzs
Bravo! @GavinC As usual appreciate the write up with pics. My parts will arrive this week along with my fav single malt which I will enjoy afterwards.
A wee drop of something afterwards, is just the job. I should have included that important step.
Nothing groundbreaking in these little guides but I find this sort of thing useful and enjoy the process.
I think there is too much smoke and mirrors surrounding LR maintenance nowadays. A little how-to here and there may help dispel the perceived complexity.