Deactivating alarm after charging battery
#1
#2
Try page 14 - "Engine Start Backup" or re-run how to Jump it on page 19.
(Thanks to @_Allegedly for hosting while I STILL try to figure out how to attach PDFs to threads...)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S9H...ew?usp=sharing
NOTE: I highly recommend all Defender owners print that out and put in their vehicles. Should be in every glove box upon delivery...
(Thanks to @_Allegedly for hosting while I STILL try to figure out how to attach PDFs to threads...)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1S9H...ew?usp=sharing
NOTE: I highly recommend all Defender owners print that out and put in their vehicles. Should be in every glove box upon delivery...
Last edited by GrouseK9; 01-14-2022 at 02:18 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by GrouseK9:
#3
This didn’t work. I am unable to deactivate the alarm. Urgently, the company Land Rover uses to outsource their Roadside Assistance, is the worst. They’ve sent 5 people and none have been able to do anything about it. Service in my Land Rover dealer has been unresponsive and Urgently is just marking the road assistance request as “done”. I’m lucky it happened at home. I’m stuck with an $80K useless brick at home. This has been the worst customer service I’ve had with a vehicle. Awful.
Last edited by Defensor; 01-15-2022 at 07:11 PM.
#4
#5
Thanks! I can try that. The issue is that the battery is under the passenger’s seat. I need to move the seat forward to be able to access. But since the seat moves with an electric button, I can’t move it.
I think the issue may be that the battery is completely depleted. So when trying to jump start it, it gets enough charge to activate the alarm, but not to turn on the electric systems, so I can’t deactivate it.
if I charge the battery for longer, I may be able to deactivate it.
QUESTION: can I easily deactivate the horn? Any fuse I can remove for it not to get triggered? My neighbors are pissed, so trying to be careful with any experiment, since the alarm is getting activated any time I try to charge the battery.
I think the issue may be that the battery is completely depleted. So when trying to jump start it, it gets enough charge to activate the alarm, but not to turn on the electric systems, so I can’t deactivate it.
if I charge the battery for longer, I may be able to deactivate it.
QUESTION: can I easily deactivate the horn? Any fuse I can remove for it not to get triggered? My neighbors are pissed, so trying to be careful with any experiment, since the alarm is getting activated any time I try to charge the battery.
#6
#7
#8
Good luck. I do not know if this is the case with the Defender for sure, but generally alarms will stop after a period - albeit it impacts the neighbors as you wait to find out what that period is. I assume you’ve tried unlocking the car with the key fob as soon as the car alarm goes off?
#10
Engine Junction Box B is in the engine compartment. #6 (15amp - blue) fuse is the one you want.
After flipping thru the Workshop manual, there are a crazy number of ways that the alarm can trigger: proximity alarm, volumetric alarm, tilt alarm, invalid smart key, yada yada yada. I hate to say it, but after disabling the horn, you likely need to have the dealer figure out which one is setting it off. And on top of that, there's a backup battery for the alarm buried somewhere. The fuse is your best hope. That's because there are two horns buried under the hood - so no more pulling the wire on the old horn trick. Also, the lights may start giving non-auditory signals as well. Hopefully not. On that note, there is a TON of stuff (not read) that deals with the importance of keeping the batteries topped up and functional before delivery. Perhaps that didn't happen. Again, good luck.
After flipping thru the Workshop manual, there are a crazy number of ways that the alarm can trigger: proximity alarm, volumetric alarm, tilt alarm, invalid smart key, yada yada yada. I hate to say it, but after disabling the horn, you likely need to have the dealer figure out which one is setting it off. And on top of that, there's a backup battery for the alarm buried somewhere. The fuse is your best hope. That's because there are two horns buried under the hood - so no more pulling the wire on the old horn trick. Also, the lights may start giving non-auditory signals as well. Hopefully not. On that note, there is a TON of stuff (not read) that deals with the importance of keeping the batteries topped up and functional before delivery. Perhaps that didn't happen. Again, good luck.
Last edited by GrouseK9; 01-15-2022 at 11:03 PM.