Originally Posted by _Allegedly

I don't know if this will help but I have a really odd background that includes managing a high-end custom car audio shop to owning a contracting firm that did commercial and residential audio, security, surveillance, etc. We very frequently had to fabricate things out of metal and I learned to weld and bond steel and aluminum. I've had years in construction and it has me looking at this maybe a little differently.

I understand you are incredibly upset and you should be. I would be.

But. I think this MIGHT be a simple problem that has been made much worse by a dealer that just has no idea what they are doing. Their sloppy work combined with terrible communication is making it unbearable. If they had a more experienced tech and a faster cleaner solution then you would have been on your way. We could debate that the dealers shouldn't be expected to solve these issues and that JLR should have a TSB by now similar to their a-pillar fix "put tape on it" or their improperly factory treated seat material (their words from the TSB) that says to "use a few liters of water and a shop vac to clean it".

Sorry for getting off-topic but it seems like the real problem here is corporate incompetence and a "patch it" or "cover it up" culture.

Looking at your pictures, the sound deadening material (adhesive sheets / Dynamat) is not intended to be used that way.

It's designed to deal with resonant frequency problems (vibrations). Overly simplified, every part in the car has a frequency where it vibrates which can lead to noise. When a car goes into a good custom audio shop for some upgrades, one final step is to play a test disc to find and eliminate any vibrations. The disc plays test sweeps. It starts at sub-audible bass and slowly plays every frequency all the way to piercing highs. It sounds similar to the sweep you hear at the start of a THX movie but with a larger range and less stylized. While the sweep plays, you'll find that a license plate almost always rattles and there will be a couple of plastic parts, a trunk lid, or some random metal parts that make noise only at very certain frequencies. This is where the Dynamat comes in. It gets stuck on the back of these parts so that, when your favorite k-pop band hits one of those specific frequencies, the parts don't rattle.

Dynamat is not supposed to be a fix for parts that are rubbing together or parts that were not properly attached. It isn't glue, it does not "connect", "attach", or "secure". It only absorbs vibrations and deadens the material to eliminate noise.

Now we have a dealer sticking it on a car that "wasn't welded" properly?? Something is missing here. Is this a structural issue? Is this an adhesive joint or weld that has failed? Is this a design problem? If so, Dynamat is not the answer.

The other possibility is that it IS a structurally sound design that isn't failing but that a couple of metal parts are rubbing and it's just a nuisance. If this is the case, Dynamat is still not the answer. The parts need to be joined, altered, or separated (depending on the problem). This is where a couple of tack welds or an adhesive bond maybe with some rivets at the joint would solve the problem without reducing the safety or value of the car.

If you really want a solution, they need to take the Dynamat off, find the parts that are rubbing, figure out what really went wrong, and actually fix it.

You would probably love this car if they did that on the first visit but it seems like their incompetence has spoiled the whole thing.

Sorry for the really long post but I hope it helps in some way.

Originally Posted by disco96sd

I sent you a contact for Land Rover North America

You wanted this as a "Keeper" I would not accept this vehicle and pursue a refund or new vehicle - micky mouse repairs by a third-party are probably not a good remedy IMO

Originally Posted by vrover90

Finally, we got an update from the service department and picked up our car yestersay evening. Here's the turn of events -
1. Asked the service manager what exactly the problem was and what they've done to fix it, just fyi - we've asked multiple times to call us, so we can drop by and take a look at the actual issue and the fix they've done. But yeah, unfortunately this wasn't the case and we've been left in the dark on whats being done at the body shop.
2. Previously (3 weeks back), the only update we had was that the vehicle was being sent to the body shop for some spot welding fixes (I have a text message stating the same). The reason they stated was that - sheet-metals were overlapping against each other, thereby leading to constant rattles and vibrations ( happens around B and C pillars).
3. When we went to pick up the car, the service manager now states that they couldn't get the weld done and they just put in some felt or dampening material between the sheet-metals and panels - we are so baffled and not sure why this would take three weeks.
4. We once again asked him what the underlying reason was, just trying to get a verbal commitment of the problem and here's his version - sheet-metal on left side of the car is actually overlapping and the gap between them isn't consistent, especially when comparing to the other side. He also said that they could hear it happen when they put some pressure on the cars external panels.
5. After some digging, we were able to locate the body shop where they sent the car to. We got in touch with the body shop technician and this is his version - theres definitely something weird going on around the B pillars of the car, they weren't sure what it is or wouldn't provide any further comment. When we inquired about spot welding (just because the service-manager previously told us that they need to spot weld) - they told us that they can't actually weld them due to the aluminum construction - at this point i don't have complete context into why or what as I don't build/repair cars for a living.
6. The gentleman just asked us to bring the car back if the issues persists.
7. We drove the car around for about 50 miles, just to check if the issues persist and to our tough luck they are all back.
8. Constant rattles and vibrations from the B and C pillars. In addition to this some of the interior plastic panels weren't put back properly - this will be an issue each time they open the back apart.

Here's a quick video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrgdbRJXorU
PS - These problems are much more worse than what you can hear in the video. I also wondering how bad it would turn, if we really take this vehicle out off-road.

Originally Posted by GFranklin

Everything you said makes perfect sense to me, I actually asked at one point could they bring in a outside sound specialist that could help diagnose and find the problem as you very clearly explained, but we were told no that they would never do that, their technicians were highly trained and knew the vehicles and how to troubleshoot..! But your exactly right, I think some higher level ego’s turned a mole hill into a mountain!!

Thanks for your post, I’m gathering as much info as I can to pass on to them, incase they haven’t thought of it..! How far from Tampa are you, would you like some side work..LoL

Originally Posted by BegginBear

Sorry for the off-topic question - what determines if the 90 has the side window squares? I see most posts here do not have them, nor the online configurator. However, I visited a dealer over the weekend and the one and only 90 had the window squares.

Originally Posted by sacharama

Sorry that you are going through this.

Any updates?