Dual Battery Thread
#11
This thread has gone a little quiet... I'd like to spur it back to life. I've watched the AutoPlicity video and even an interesting video on Youtube by Fish13. Neat applications, but has anyone found a more "turn-key" solution for a simple dual battery setup?
With a weekend of camping, I'll often get the "low battery" warning from the Defender. I don't really need the serious expedition version and expense of the RedArc ReVision system or a custom built panel for plugs etc.
Would like to have the ability to use a secondary battery for simple accessories (both 110V and 12v dc) and probably have a BCDC unit to charge and manage a secondary battery. I'm good with installing something in the underfloor space in my cargo area and can figure that out. Would really like the ability to use a secondary battery for camping, then have my main starter battery jump to life when its time to go.
Thanks
With a weekend of camping, I'll often get the "low battery" warning from the Defender. I don't really need the serious expedition version and expense of the RedArc ReVision system or a custom built panel for plugs etc.
Would like to have the ability to use a secondary battery for simple accessories (both 110V and 12v dc) and probably have a BCDC unit to charge and manage a secondary battery. I'm good with installing something in the underfloor space in my cargo area and can figure that out. Would really like the ability to use a secondary battery for camping, then have my main starter battery jump to life when its time to go.
Thanks
#12
I'm in the throws of building out my own boot storage. I've seen enough images of others doing it that I'm doing the dive myself. While going at it, I tossed around the idea of a second battery and then went a different track. The plan is to store it in the storage area (TBD if I can get the spacing). Pull it out when camping. If I need to charge it, plug it into the boot outlet as I go places. Plug it in at home before a trip. I think it's more versatile (for me/my uses) and likely a lot less of a PIA. I'm debating the solar chargers and just going with the "battery generator" as I can charge it from the Defender while traveling. Might not work for you, but it was a different direction for me.
Jackery Solar Generator
Jackery Solar Generator
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drcoop (08-10-2021)
#13
Thanks, Grouse. I ended up going the same route but with an Eco Flow Delta that I can plug into the 12v. I have it fully charged in the house and I can charge it with 12v or solar. The added benefit is the ability to use it in the house when we lose power. The downside is how big it is but this is a function that I bought it to power my appliances in the house in case we have a significant power loss. It charges 90% in 2 hours off the wall outlet and can run a full-size fridge for 8 hours. 12-volt charge will take 10 hours from 0 to 100%. It will run a Dometic fridge for 20-32 hours. We took it on our rented trailer trip and had to use the microwave in the trailer but we had no shore power. We plugged in the ECO Delta and it ran the microwave and said we could run the microwave for 40 minutes before the battery was drained.
I might do the smaller version the ECO Flow since I never get anywhere close to draining the big one.
I might do the smaller version the ECO Flow since I never get anywhere close to draining the big one.
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Redtruck (08-05-2023)
#14
Thanks, Grouse. I ended up going the same route but with an Eco Flow Delta that I can plug into the 12v. I have it fully charged in the house and I can charge it with 12v or solar. The added benefit is the ability to use it in the house when we lose power. The downside is how big it is but this is a function that I bought it to power my appliances in the house in case we have a significant power loss. It charges 90% in 2 hours off the wall outlet and can run a full-size fridge for 8 hours. 12-volt charge will take 10 hours from 0 to 100%. It will run a Dometic fridge for 20-32 hours. We took it on our rented trailer trip and had to use the microwave in the trailer but we had no shore power. We plugged in the ECO Delta and it ran the microwave and said we could run the microwave for 40 minutes before the battery was drained.
I might do the smaller version the ECO Flow since I never get anywhere close to draining the big one.
I might do the smaller version the ECO Flow since I never get anywhere close to draining the big one.
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GrouseK9 (08-10-2021)
#15
The External battery pack is definitely and most probably a more practical option for those of us that aren't serious overlanders! Thanks for the comments!
With limited cargo space during trips, and so much potential available space under the cargo floor, I would just love to work out a permanently wired in solution. Please anyone continue to leave your comments, pics and experiences here as more and more aftermarket options hopefully get developed.
With limited cargo space during trips, and so much potential available space under the cargo floor, I would just love to work out a permanently wired in solution. Please anyone continue to leave your comments, pics and experiences here as more and more aftermarket options hopefully get developed.
#16
My older Goal Zero Yeti 400s fit perfectly under the rear tray in my P300. I am going to refrain from building in a system as I will most likely be upgrading to a 130 in 2 years. 110 just doesn't have enough cargo space for me but I love the truck. I will then build in a DC to DC charger and lithium secondary battery. The Redarc BCDC1225D to a 12v deep cycle or small lithium would be a relatively simple solution. I also recommend the Anderson connectors over the 12v plugs. They make a solid connection while the 12v plugs always fall out offroad.
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drcoop (08-11-2021)
#17
#18
https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...attery-104302/
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Mburke019 (02-05-2022)
#19
I’ve not been on the forum in a while, but I thought I’d share my dual battery setup. I pretty much copied Sean McWherter (Autoplicity) from a Defender owners facebook group. I have a P400, so there is loads of factory “stuff” under the load floor. I had to make a false floor to mount everything to.
I purchased a 100ah LiPo battery and the Redarc Manager 30 and Redvision distribution box. I accessed the vehicle battery the same way zac431 did in his link. I ended up wiring an ignition source as well since I couldn’t get any definitive answer on whether the alternator is a smart one or not. I tapped fuse #1 in the rear passenger fuse box. I used a volt meter to find one that is only on when the ignition is on.
P400 gadgets under the load floor. I had to move the module that is at the bottom left of the pic to be able to fit the battery. Also removed the silver mounting bracket.
Shows the plywood platform.
Hard to see in the photo, but I secured the false floor on the two sides where you see the two black brackets. And in the top right you can see a hole. I had to drill holes in the two side brackets and used nutserts to bolt it down. The one at the top right just behind the seat used an existing (unused) factory nutsert.
Final layout of devices. I have the JLR air compressor so need need to add one under here. I still need to tidy up the wiring, but I still have the refrigerator cord to wire in and I’m trying to decide if I want to permanently mount the shore power plug and solar plug or simply leave them as cords.
Three things to see in this photo. Top left you can see where I installed two USB ports (each have type C and standard) and a 12V outlet. In the middle you see the AC control dial. Next to it, I installed the plug for the inverter….so a 1000w 120v outlet. It is switched on and off with the Redvision system. Lastly is the Redvision screen. I didn’t want a permanent mount for it, so I utilized the location of the hook to mount a Ram Mount ball (6mm bolt did the trick).
What it all looks like closed up and ready.
I hope this helps others considering doing the same.
I purchased a 100ah LiPo battery and the Redarc Manager 30 and Redvision distribution box. I accessed the vehicle battery the same way zac431 did in his link. I ended up wiring an ignition source as well since I couldn’t get any definitive answer on whether the alternator is a smart one or not. I tapped fuse #1 in the rear passenger fuse box. I used a volt meter to find one that is only on when the ignition is on.
P400 gadgets under the load floor. I had to move the module that is at the bottom left of the pic to be able to fit the battery. Also removed the silver mounting bracket.
Shows the plywood platform.
Hard to see in the photo, but I secured the false floor on the two sides where you see the two black brackets. And in the top right you can see a hole. I had to drill holes in the two side brackets and used nutserts to bolt it down. The one at the top right just behind the seat used an existing (unused) factory nutsert.
Final layout of devices. I have the JLR air compressor so need need to add one under here. I still need to tidy up the wiring, but I still have the refrigerator cord to wire in and I’m trying to decide if I want to permanently mount the shore power plug and solar plug or simply leave them as cords.
Three things to see in this photo. Top left you can see where I installed two USB ports (each have type C and standard) and a 12V outlet. In the middle you see the AC control dial. Next to it, I installed the plug for the inverter….so a 1000w 120v outlet. It is switched on and off with the Redvision system. Lastly is the Redvision screen. I didn’t want a permanent mount for it, so I utilized the location of the hook to mount a Ram Mount ball (6mm bolt did the trick).
What it all looks like closed up and ready.
I hope this helps others considering doing the same.
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