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Hi All. I’m doing a dual battery install under the rear floor and will use a Redarc BCDC1225 battery management system to allow me to plug in a solar panel. I’m looking to run the connection to the solar panel to the outside of the vehicle so I can have an external Anderson plug that will allow me to plug in the solar panel without leaving a door or window open. But I’m conscious of wading and so wanted thoughts on where people have or would run the Anderson plug to in order to not compromise the wading depth (by drilling a hole somewhere that water can leak in or leaving the Anderson plug exposed to water ingress below the wade line). Any thoughts welcome…and apologies if the answer to this is really obvious. Completely new to this sort of thing.
I am somewhat amused that the powerful uk guys put a literal waterproof electric switch box on the back exterior D pillar of their white 110! It looks like a switch for a hot tub. Perhaps could do the same. You can find videos of them talking about it from a year or so ago.
Ditto what @nashvegas said! I think it was a great idea. But, it will mar the beautiful lines of the Defender.... FWIW - A new D-Pillar from PowerfulUk costs like ~85#s. When I "modified" mine like that, I picked one up in case I want to "hide the evidence later". I routed my rear camera to be under the top bracket of my Lucky8 ladder. Now all I have to do is switch that if I want to go back to "OEM Specs".
GrouseK9, any advice on getting the trim piece off without breaking it the way the PowerfulUK guys did?
FWIW, before I installed my side steps I watched PowerfulUK’s video several times. He pretty much said that the clips were sacrificial and that you will most likely need to replace them all. Bought my side steps from New Defender Parts, and they provided the commensurate number of clips to complete the installation. Watching Simon and Tyler on PowerfulUK’s website, they attacked it, literally snapping off nearly all the trim clips and replacing them all. On my install, I used a little finesse and patience and was able to remove both rocker panel covers, needing to replace only two or three out of approximately 16 trim clips. I watched him do the same thing with the D pillar you are referring to, grabbing it with two hands and wrenching it off violently, with the expected results of destroying all the clips. I would bet if you used that same finesse and patience you could achieve similar results as I did. And an added tip, I purchased this kit from Amazon which includes a variety of clips that you will encounter when working on many car models for a fraction of the price of a few trim clips at JLR dealer price. Good luck.
Thanks WTFChuck. I too have removed trims without breaking clips. The PowerfulUK guys seem a bit hung-ho to me :-) Thanks for the link to the amazon clips bucket. Very handy.
@Simon14 - The Upper D-pillar trim is made of two pieces of plastic that are VERY poorly heat welded together. If you try to pry from the outer layer (Red Arrow), you will easily separate them. You will curse and then either JB weld it or order another. The preferred way is to pry the INNER layer out (Green Arrow). The gold thing is supposed to represent the trim tool and where to place it. It is hard to tell when you are outside the vehicle, but you need to dig deep and pry more 'inside' the trim than usual or than you think. Good luck!
EDIT: Those purple dots are the really tough rubber grommet/connection points. Start with levering at the high/right and then the low/right points to start.