Garage Door Problems
#11
Airing down the tires does not sound like a bad idea. And seriously, would have died a bit inside.
#12
The following users liked this post:
Kev M (11-16-2021)
#13
#14
With my ski rack on (the one to the rear only.) it will brush the metal piece (like you describe) when I enter the garage after a drive. When the car is park in access mode and the engine turns off the car lowers a little more to allow easier egress. Once I get in I can reverse out with no contact. Front one does not rub at all.
The other thing to do is when parked, lower the rear of the vehicle to its lowest using the trunk control button. Hop in and reverse out before the garage realizes your trying to escape. Better yet, use an accomplice to assist.
Airing down the tyres too. But my way will work without much effort if you just need a wee bit of room.
My garage door has a metal piece that sits parallel to the floor when closed. About 2" wide. That's the bit that rubs when it's open.
The other thing to do is when parked, lower the rear of the vehicle to its lowest using the trunk control button. Hop in and reverse out before the garage realizes your trying to escape. Better yet, use an accomplice to assist.
Airing down the tyres too. But my way will work without much effort if you just need a wee bit of room.
My garage door has a metal piece that sits parallel to the floor when closed. About 2" wide. That's the bit that rubs when it's open.
The following users liked this post:
Couriki125 (11-16-2021)
#15
If you want a daily dose of first world problems, you've come to the right place. Let me preface this by saying I feel like the world's biggest idiot right now.
Finally picked up my 110 yesterday, and i have the clearsight rear view mirror (so i have that fin thing on the top of the car that holds the camera). I had previously measured this out, but not taking into account the extra 3" or so of fin on the top. Long story short, BARELY managed to get the car in the garage, but now I'm realizing the metal beam on the door would rip this camera right out if i backed out of the garage (it's angled and extends about 2" from the door, so i have like half an inch of clearance going in, but none if trying to back out). So now i am waiting for a garage door guy to come and help me get the car out.
Anyone have any helpful hints? Similar stories? is it possible to extend the tracks on a garage door so that the door will lift up an extra couple of inches?
Finally picked up my 110 yesterday, and i have the clearsight rear view mirror (so i have that fin thing on the top of the car that holds the camera). I had previously measured this out, but not taking into account the extra 3" or so of fin on the top. Long story short, BARELY managed to get the car in the garage, but now I'm realizing the metal beam on the door would rip this camera right out if i backed out of the garage (it's angled and extends about 2" from the door, so i have like half an inch of clearance going in, but none if trying to back out). So now i am waiting for a garage door guy to come and help me get the car out.
Anyone have any helpful hints? Similar stories? is it possible to extend the tracks on a garage door so that the door will lift up an extra couple of inches?
#16
The following 2 users liked this post by GavinC:
Craig_RRS2013 (11-16-2021),
GrouseK9 (11-16-2021)
#17
The critical measurement is the structural opening of the garage. I measured mine the other day and found it to be 6'-10", which should be enough to pass the Defender with the camera. The door's upper limit of travel should be able to be adjusted to pull the door a bit further into the garage to eliminate that angle and provide the full amount of available clearance. Check you door opener manual or contact the door installer.
#18
#19
ArmyRover: Of course there are almost limitless permutations. I first encountered this years ago with the SIIA shown in my avatar. IIRC it measured at 80 inches with the metal cab, no rails. It just barely fit. If it had a tropical roof if would not have fit.
#20