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This is my GMRS radio install.-Midland MXT275 MicroMobile radio
-Magnetic Mic microphone mount
-Midland MXTA26 6dB gain whip antenna for off road use
-Midland MXTA25 3dB gain ghost antenna for daily use
-Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable
-Midland GXT1050 two-way radios for the spotter and others without a radio on trail
-Midland XT511 GMRS Base Camp radio for camp
Finished installing Rigid Industries D-SS Pro Driving Lights on the Saltek Motorsports Hood Mounted Ditch Light Brackets and mounted the Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable and Midland MXTA25 Ghost Antenna to a bracket I fabricated.
The Midland MTX275 GMRS radio is mounted under the cup holders, power/ground & antenna are routed through the vents under the cup holder in the center console (vents are for the center console fridge).
Mic is mounted to a A-tech High mount with Magnetic Mic microphone mount.
The Midland MTX275 had a USB power outlet on it that I use to charge my Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum Which Remote.
I did have to remove the center console side panels to run the antenna cable and power wires. I used the instructions from the PowerfulUK video (link below). https://youtu.be/Xhc2TKK-e4s
Power/ground go through the center console to the battery compartment under the floor covering and front seat bracket. I taped them to a long zip tie to thread them through. The power is directly connected to the battery using a 5 amp fuse. The ground is attached to a grounding point in the battery compartment.
I ran the power directly to the battery so I can use the radio even if the Defender is off.
Just pulled nuts from wiper arms so I can get to steering pass through….thought they would pull right off but they won’t budge. Am I missing something? Don’t want to break anything prying or using a puller.
Not that you need to remove for this job, if you do in the future, you need to place the arm back down along the windscreen to remove it. Not in the wiper removal position. Silly I know but that’s how you remove. Took me weeks to figure that out. Lol.
@GCSchmidt - Never noticed that my Midland has a USB port! I've got to check.... Unless mine is an older model, that's brilliant to use it to keep the Warn remote charged. Mine ALWAYS dies so I have to remember to recharge before going on off-road trips. Leaving it down there plugged in is a good plan. Where did you get the Warn remote holder that you showed attached next to the Midland mic in that photo?
BTW - I like your power route better than mine. I ran it to the glovebox fuse and piggybacked on a 5amp fuse. It would have been easier to go straight down to the battery. Well played.
@GCSchmidt - Never noticed that my Midland has a USB port! I've got to check.... Unless mine is an older model, that's brilliant to use it to keep the Warn remote charged. Mine ALWAYS dies so I have to remember to recharge before going on off-road trips. Leaving it down there plugged in is a good plan. Where did you get the Warn remote holder that you showed attached next to the Midland mic in that photo?
BTW - I like your power route better than mine. I ran it to the glovebox fuse and piggybacked on a 5amp fuse. It would have been easier to go straight down to the battery. Well played.
Thank you. The best thing about the mount I put together is that it can be moved to anywhere on the dash and removed when not needed without any modifications/damage to the dash.
I’m using a A-Tach Mounts: Defender Low Mount and adapted the Warn Industries Advanced Wireless Control Window Mount to work with the A-Tach mount.
I did get a 90 degree usb cable that allows me to use the dash mount and charge the remote. The cable that came with the remote didn't allow me to use the mount and charge it due to clearance issues with the dash.
@GCSchmidt - Did you just use double sided 3m high strength tape to mount the Midland MXT275 mounting bracket under the console? I think I see it in pics but can't quite tell. Debating doing the same now & wondering if it's held up / still stuck up there. (or if you screwed it in... how the heck did you do that without removing the entire console...).
Right now my MXT275 is just tossed down in that area temporarily without being secured. So need to get it sorted.
@GCSchmidt - Did you just use double sided 3m high strength tape to mount the Midland MXT275 mounting bracket under the console? I think I see it in pics but can't quite tell. Debating doing the same now & wondering if it's held up / still stuck up there. (or if you screwed it in... how the heck did you do that without removing the entire console...).
Right now my MXT275 is just tossed down in that area temporarily without being secured. So need to get it sorted.
I used self tapping screws to secure the radio's bracket to the underside of the console. Use a stubby screwdriver to get them in. I did use a little bit of the 3M tape to hold it in place wile I screwed it in.
I went a different route. A bit more involved, but it worked for me. I had 1/4" walnut on hand (any wood should do). Then took the rubber cup holder cover and used it as a template to route out the wood. The rubber cup holder fits down there as it's "storage" spot. I attached the Midland to the walnut and it fits right into the cubby. I've bounced the Defender hard doing stupid stuff and it's never rattled around. When I want, it plucks right out of its cozy little corner.
Good luck for your solution! (Post pics or it doesn't count...)
