Not to be an alarmist but... I think we will look forward to corrosion on attachments on these L663's.

Pic below of side hood hinge stud (on hood).
2020 Defender, 19K miles, car delivered Jan 2021 so 27 mos old. Car has never seen road salt (maybe once but for a couple hours on Mt Hood).
Was removing it to install a ditch light style bracket for a GMRS hood antenna.


Corrosion has set in... ugh. This will not sleep.


Location: Drivers side hood hinge, attachment point on hood

The reason for removing the nut - installing this bracket for a GMRS antenna

Corrosion is minor and no big deal whatsoever now, but ... What sucks... is that in 5-10 years, these studs in high corrosion areas may fail and break off ... which is then a bit of an issue to attach the hood.

As the owner of an RRC I'm somewhat attuned to corrosion on dissimilar metals (aluminum, steel, stainless, etc). Also, if anyone familiar with what is happening on the latest bodystyle Jeep Wranglers... same thing.

 

BTW - it's actually corroded so much the threads are gone on a portion.

 

That's not good looks like moisture is trapped in there, check the other two ( one is in between the seal )

 

spray it with something.
on my Volvo I have some metal pieces under the hood corroded in 17 years but body is still like brand new. And we have salty slush every winter.

 

Google the product Boeshield T-9
Spray it on. Put it back together and forget it. Looks like you have a bit of electrolysis going on between your aluminum hood and steel stud.

 

I don't think that the inner part of the hood is aluminium. Just pressed steel

 

LPS-3 works well for this kind of application as well. I'm a Series IIA owner and swear by it.

 

[QUOTE=Defendit..;862648]I don't think that the inner part of the hood is aluminium. Just pressed steel.

Have you tried it with a magnet?

 

Thank you. I just bought LPS-3 on Amazon.

BTW I do have and swear by Boeshield T-9... it's more of a lubricant than a longer term corrosion preventer though IMO. I do use it on lots.

 

I wonder if it was painted at the factory with the bolt in place, so if you remove the bolt its uncoated. Although I would assume JLR would use stainless steel studs but who knows. Thanks for posting Ill take a look myself on my Defender.