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The DRL ring failing is a common issue. I had mine replaced under warranty 2 years ago. The driver's side ring just failed again at 70k miles. There is a fix for this. You can buy the part from Powerful uk, it's £48. They did a video on replacing the LED module. They also said you can't separate the headlight lens from the casing. That is false. I just did this with a heat gun and patience. Here is a link to the part on their website and their video showing where the part goes. I used black silicon/caulk to reassemble the headlight.
Were your "two square lights" out as well or JUST the halo? My squares are out too and wondering if this is a fix for both or just the halo. Thanks!
Yes, both the ring and the squares were out. The LED module I replaced is solely for the ring. However, the ring and the squares must be on the same circuit. When a fault happens with the ring, the squares do not work. Once the LED for the ring was replaced, the squares work again.
Awesome, thank you for the info! I'm past warranty right now and working with the dealership and LR to try to get it covered but if they don't, I think I'll go this route.
The DRL ring failing is a common issue. I had mine replaced under warranty 2 years ago. The driver's side ring just failed again at 70k miles. There is a fix for this. You can buy the part from Powerful uk, it's £48. They did a video on replacing the LED module. They also said you can't separate the headlight lens from the casing. That is false. I just did this with a heat gun and patience. Here is a link to the part on their website and their video showing where the part goes. I used black silicon/caulk to reassemble the headlight.
Here is a photo of the part and the lens and casing separated.
How tough was it to take the headlight lens off? I watched that video and he kind of destroyed the light. I have a couple spare head lights I need to replace the chip in and would love to give this a go.
How tough was it to take the headlight lens off? I watched that video and he kind of destroyed the light. I have a couple spare head lights I need to replace the chip in and would love to give this a go.
In the video, they just cut it off with a Dremel and didn't try to separate the lens from the casing. I was a little surprised by that, but they have lenses and cases, so I don't blame them. I used a heat gun and heated the area where the seal was. I went around the seal lots of times to warm it up steadily. I then used a flat head screw driver and plastic/nylon blade to work into where the seal was and also to pry the lens and casing apart. There are tabs along the casing that the plastic lens clips into. I heated those areas separately and pulled the slightly melted casing away from the lens so those clips wouldn't stop the lens coming out. On reinstall, I heated those tabs and pushed them back into place. If you have a hook shaped pick, that would help break the seal if you run it along the seam (I didn't think of this until after I had it apart and saw how they were connected). I ended up working the one end loose and prying between the lens and the case. I kept heating each side of the seal and prying up little by little working toward the other end. Once they separated, I scraped all the seal/gunk off the lens and from in the seam of the case. As far as difficulty, it's not hard, but it's not easy. Just take your time. From the time I opened the bonnet to shutting the bonnet was 3 hours total. That included a run to Lowe's to get black silicon/caulk to reinstall the lens with. Actual work time was just over 2 hours.
Last edited by 2020Defender; Aug 26, 2024 at 09:53 PM.
my drivers side went out at like 60k dealer wanted 4500 plus labor. I Ordered the light modules online I think I paid $50 for 2. I put the light in the oven to soften the sealant popped it apart swapped the module added new sealant put back in oven pressed leans cover back on then back in the oven. 4 months gone by plenty of hard rains and car was or 2 since i usually hand wash. no leaks or condensation. parts department told me to make sure I use butyl sealant thats what OEM is bought from amazon. tanke your tiem doign this you dont want to crach the housing or lens.
Just reminding people this is not a post about the DRL ring failing as there are many of those posts already. Instead the entire headlight is always "on" when in the auto position. The DRL ring is on along with the main lamp.
Had the driver side fail in March and yesterday the passenger side failed. Fortunately still in the warranty.
Has anyone I wonder ever determined why these fail so soon? I mean because unless someone knows what's what and this defect is being addressed they're just swapping in components that are likely to fail again. Having had the issue myself and replaced under warranty I can sympathize with everyone else and if it happens out of warranty that's going to be a huge problem. I even needed the rear lights replaced, I haven't heard anyone else who ever needed that but yes they suddenly stayed lit, brake lights etc. Again replaced under warranty but it gets to be too much after a while.
