Folks, my new Defender P300 is nearing 2000 miles and I’m considering getting my break-in oil changed.

I have an excellent indy that has worked on my Audi Q5 and Porsche 911. However, when I asked him if he could do my oil change soon, a conversation followed where he shared that he uses a pump to flush the old oil and I’m not sure if I like that, as I’ve read that break-in causes quite a bit of metal shavings that made their way to the magnetic oil plug.

Should I tell him that I want the skid plates off and proper oil plug removal flush or is what he wants to do just fine ???

please advise.

 

Many people on here as well as most dealers use a vacuum pump to extract the oil. My dealer is one of the few who removes the skid plate and drains the oil, but now that I'm out of factory warranty, I'll be doing my own oil changes with a vacuum pump.

Break-in periods aren't really that important anymore, as engine manufacturing processes and engine design and technology has improved so much even in the past 10 years, that many automakers don't have break-in periods anymore.

But to answer your question, yes, it is absolutely okay to extract the oil rather than drain it.

 

I always change my own oil and have been doing it for>45 years.

​​​@CincyRovers said, a lot has changed in engine design, oil technology, etc.

I considered putting the drain valve in but in the end decided to just use the pump.

If JLR manuals set the oil change procedure in their shops to use a vacuum pump instead of draining from the bottom, that was good enough for me. They know more about these engines than any of us ever will.

 

FWIW, I’m old school and prefer doing it the old fashioned way. While there are many proponents of the extraction method, I have read a few issues here of tubes getting stuck, tubes curling upward and not extracting the full volume. Don’t get me wrong, when all goes well the extraction method is quick, easy and less laborious, but the chances of something going awry using the drain method are far less. Plus I like getting under the vehicle, makes it possible to check out a lot more that might be missed. I give everything a good look while under there, looking for leaks, weeps, physical damage, etc. I installed the Fumoto valve and enlarged the access opening so changing the oil via this method is extremely quick and easy. To each his own, though.

 

Thanks folks,

Since this is the very first oil change, should I insist on ‘’Normal’’ oil plug removal technique? Or even the first oil change is fine when done with the pump ?

I bought it new and might consider keeping it for 5/6 years… Under warranty of course 😉

 

You can do what you want because its your car, but either way is perfectly fine. Like I said, engine technology and manufacturing processes have improved dramatically. You won't have much (if any) significant metal particles in your oil, and nothing to be worried about.

 

I've taken my under armor off to service my front diff. Total pain in the **** especially if you have the front bash-plate.

With vacuum I can do an oil change in 30 mins. (Getting stuff ready, to all tidied away). It's so simple and neat this way, I could do it wearing white tie and tails.

I salute anyone who feels the need to remove the under-armor to swap out their oil. You're a better person than I. Or possibly a masochist.



Bonus points if you encounter an over tightened/cross threaded bolt down there. Fun when the captured nut starts spinning.

 

Agreed, the under armor is a pain. First time I did it I lost count of how many screws and bolts I took off, but like anything we do mechanically, the first time is always the worst. Now that I know which ones need to come off, where they are located and which size sockets and bits are needed, with a power driver I can have them off in under 10 minutes. Like when doing a brake job. The second wheel takes less than half the time of the first, and each brake job gets quicker.

 

lf you do decide to remove the sump plug, take care because when you remove it the oil will come out horizontally and at some pressure.

lt is likely to completely miss the drain pan you've put underneath to catch the oil.

Ask me how l know this.

 

Learned that same lesson on my first oil change. Nearly 9 liters of oil has quite a bit of head pressure, ensuring that the angle, combined with force will completely bypass the oil catch pan. Did learn though, that with the help of a second person, if you remove the oil fill cap and hold the hose of a shop vac over the opening and turn it on, holding it tightly over the opening, you can remove the drain plug and place the oil catch basin on some blocking directly under the drain hole, with no oil draining, until the helper turns off the vac, or removes the hose at which point the oil will drain into the pan. Have tried this on a few vehicles and have not had dirty oil run down my forearm into my armpit in years.