I will go 21K, I'm crazy like that

 

New owner here learning things. Like that maybe I will go half the interval, maybe the whole one we'll see.

Honestly I was an early adopter of extended intervals with M1 (10k miles) almost two decades ago and have had lots of good luck with that.

We traded in a Jeep GC V6 on this Defender and it got M1 every 8-10k miles (as per the ECU monitor recommendation) and was tight as a clock, and burned absolutely not a drop almost 10 years and 100k miles later. Granted that's not a lot of miles, but it sure seemed to be doing just fine with those intervals.

We're only at 2k so far on the Defender (ordered it late last summer and it surprised us with an early arrival in October), so I've got time to learn and think more about it.

Mostly I think I'm going to not worry too much.

 

I bought this on Amazon and it fits perfectly for my P300:

CTA Tools 2485 Heavy Duty Oil...

 

I just changed mine yesterday after 5K miles. Using the MityVac it is a pleasant task and the least expensive insurance avialable against future problems.

As noted in previous threads, many believe waiting 21K miles for a gasoline engine is a foolish farce. I would be interested to know at which mileage the engineers who designed the vehicle are changing their own oil.

 

TrioLRowner, I just used the MityVac on my P300 after the first 2k miles (2,096 to be exact). I was only able to pull just over 6 liters according to the MityVac volume markings on the side. How much did you get out? I was hoping for more and 99% sure I stuck the hose down far enough. By the way, I'm glad I changed the oil - it was already quite black. Thanks for any advice.

 

I was able to pull out 6.6 litres (7 quarts) on my P300.

I had the filter cap loosened and the oil filter cap removed, so air could go in. I made sure the plastic line was bottomed-out in the oil sump. I also pumped fast to pull out the oil, then removed the plastic line just after pumping, so it was not drawn back in.

 

I changed my oil in my P300 at around 3000 miles before a 2300 mile trip thru Baja. What amazed me was the little flecks of metal in the filter from being new and breaking in the engine. I definitely think every new engine needs an early change. Also, the oil looked dirty in the mityvac but it just looks that way in the tube. If you look in a larger pan or on on fingers, my oil looked pretty clean.

I just used the large channel locks for the oil filter housing as none of the other oil wrenches worked for me. I will buy the correct wrench soon.

 

The first 1000 miles or so is a good time to change oil. Friend of mine changed oil at 200, 500 and 1000 miles from new just to see what the oil looked like--okay, it was a motorcycle. Still, it was interesting how much metal collects in the filter and how quickly it cleared up by the 1000 mile change. I think you did good changing it when you did.

 

The early oil change cult is strong and hard to free the members.

If that photo reflects crap that is floating around in your oil (as opposed to trapped by the filter) then the damage is done be it 2k or 20k miles.

If it was picked up by the filter, and the filter doesn't go to bypass, then it doesn't matter if it's 2k or 20k, it's fine.

The motorcycle industry offers a whole other level of unnecessary paranoia, but it's largely built from attempting to drive business back to the dealer (and avoiding potential liabilities from any other assembly issues), so shy of poor DIY/home honing, 200,500, 1000 mile changes are equally silly.

But the cult is strong.

 

I changed my oil every 10k miles on my 2006 Audi A3 2.0T FSI (owned since brand new) and i drove it pass 200k miles without any motor issues, i sold it not because of mechanical or electrical problem, but because the bottom edge of the front wheel well started to rust and i sold it to someone who’s going to put a v6 biturbo in it.