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Oil change question

Old Oct 6, 2021 | 03:52 PM
  #11  
charlypm's Avatar
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From: Tacoma WA USA
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On my LR3, after when the oil was dealer changed, I noticed there was a bolt and nut combination on the skid plate that was not put back on. Only the bolts that went into blind nuts were put back on. I guess that must have saved about 1 minute of reassembly time.
I've never gone back for an oil change on my LR or Jag.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 06:43 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Juancl
Our D90 with 7,000k miles went in for service today with a check engine light (Code P043E EVAP System Leak detection). I checked the gas cap a couple times since it came on and drove it for another 30-40 miles with the light, after which I just scheduled an appointment. About 1/4 mile from the dealer this morning it turned off (in classic Murphy's law fashion)... Anyway, still took it in so they can read the codes and see if anything needed taking care of from our website. Since the car was already there and I have limited time these days, I also asked them to change the oil, as I am not a believer in the whole 21,000 mile service interval, this the first oil change and the car has done its fair share of offroading in very dusty places.

Now for the actual questions: the dealer quoted me $300 for the oil change (which I know it's outrageous and I can do myself, but I am pressed for time these days and can't do it, so effectively paying them for my lack of time). The service order indicates 10qts of oil, an oil filter and an oil plug (which based on my quick research works to be about $80 in parts, making it harder to swallow the $300 charge...), now:
  • Does this thing actually take 10qts of oil (P300 engine)?
  • Do they actually change the plug these days? I was assuming dealers use oil extractors to perform oil changes, but I might be wrong, so honestly curious. I typically do my own oil changes the good old way (via the drain plug), but have been considering an extractor, so ultimately want to know what is best.
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
 

Last edited by irontmp; Jul 11, 2024 at 06:01 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 09:19 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by irontmp
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
you used the wrong oil.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 08:54 AM
  #14  
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IronTMP,

Are you trolling us?

If you only used 5 qts (1 big jug) of oil you only put back in half the the wrong oil required. "Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99" You should stop driving the vehicle immediately if your above statements are correct. 17 ft/lbs or 22nm is the proper oil drain plug torque spec.
 

Last edited by SilverSFR; Apr 16, 2024 at 09:45 AM.
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 09:11 AM
  #15  
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From: Boston, MA
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Originally Posted by GavinC
you used the wrong oil.
^ What he said. This is the correct oil:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/0w-...oly-lm22046#qa
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 09:35 AM
  #16  
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From: Kirkland WA
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Wong oil, wrong volume, wrong torque on filter, wrong filter (probably).

A penny saved is a penny.....something or other.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2024 | 08:02 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by SilverSFR
IronTMP,

Are you trolling us?

If you only used 5 qts (1 big jug) of Oil Change you only put back in half the the wrong oil required. "Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99" You should stop driving the vehicle immediately if your above statements are correct. 17 ft/lbs or 22nm is the proper oil drain plug torque spec.
thank you for your suggestion
 
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Old Nov 30, 2024 | 03:20 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Juancl
Our D90 with 7,000k miles went in for service today with a check engine light (Code P043E EVAP System Leak detection). I checked the gas cap a couple of times since it came on and drove it for another 30-40 miles with the light, after which I just scheduled an appointment. About 1/4 mile from the dealer this morning it turned off (in classic Murphy's law fashion)... Anyway, still took it in so they can read the codes and see if anything needed taking care of MG Repair. Since the car was already there and I have limited time these days, I also asked them to change the oil, as I am not a believer in the whole 21,000-mile service interval, this is the first oil change and the car has done its fair share of offroading in very dusty places.

Now for the actual questions: the dealer quoted me $300 for the oil change (which I know it's outrageous and I can do myself, but I am pressed for time these days and can't do it, so effectively paying them for my lack of time). The service order indicates 10qts of oil, an oil filter, and an oil plug (which based on my quick research works to be about $80 in parts, making it harder to swallow the $300 charge...), now:
  • Does this thing actually take 10qts of oil (P300 engine)?
  • Do they actually change the plug these days? I was assuming dealers use oil extractors to perform oil changes, but I might be wrong, so honestly curious. I typically do my own oil changes the good old way (via the drain plug), but have been considering an extractor, so ultimately want to know what is best.
Does anyone know how long the oil change notification goes before it hits 0% life ? Is it 3500 miles? Curious if i have used full synthetic that says you can go 10k miles before change, could i just reset the oil change notification and just do it every other time it warns me? Thanks for the help!
 
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