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I just performed an oil change with the Mityvac on my '23 P300. This was the first oil service for the truck. It has 8800 miles.
It's really straight forward but a couple of observations:
The P300 requires 7L for an oil service (less than the P400) per the manual. I could only extract 6+Ls. (I'm not sure if that's all that was in it or I didn't position the tube correctly. - Next time will help me determine)
The dip stick is pretty hard to read with fresh oil.
It took 6.5L to fill so it seems like I'm leaving something behind.
I'll check again once I run it for a bit.
The most difficult part of the entire thing in getting dipstick in!!
Appreciate all the guidance from everyone on this thread.
I was able to get all 7 litres out of mine. It took some repositioning of the extractor tube as it was my first time but I did eventually get it all out. Overall I was very happy with the process.
I was able to get all 7 litres out of mine. It took some repositioning of the extractor tube as it was my first time but I did eventually get it all out. Overall I was very happy with the process.
That's encouraging! Next change I'll fiddle with the tube some more. THank you.
Guys, I have been following along and noticed that there is a newer Liqui Moly LR-specific oil available on Amazon now. It meets the newer JLR spec, not the previous one.
Here:
Guys, I have been following along and noticed that there is a newer Liqui Moly LR-specific oil available on Amazon now. It meets the newer JLR spec, not the previous one.
Here: https://www.amazon.com/Liqui-Moly-Sp...Y2hfYXRm&psc=1
A little more expensive, of course!
Yes. Amazon have had that since at least May 2021. Probably much earlier. This is the correct oil. Used it for two changes now.
I'm pretty sure that STJLR.03.5006 is the newer spec. (Even though STJLR.51.5122 would seem like the newer spec since 5006 comes before 5122 in numerical sequence)
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
I'm pretty sure that STJLR.03.5006 is the newer spec. (Even though STJLR.51.5122 would seem like the newer spec since 5006 comes after 5122 in numerical sequence)
And be careful when buying oil from Amazon. It was discussed on this forum a few years ago when someone bought Liqui Moly on Amazon and there were typos on the jug label. Apparently Amazon does not check their sellers. I recently bought a Grohe faucet cartridge on Amazon that was certainly a cheap knock-off version and failed quickly. Printed box it came in sure looked like a legitimate blue Grohe box with the usual white Grohe logo.
2023 P400 - Advanced offroad pack (no factory winch)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender out of my head...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)
Last edited by PMKColorado; Dec 7, 2023 at 07:05 AM.
2023 P400 - Advanced offroad pack (no factory winch)
I decided to go "old School" and pull the oil plug. "Used offroad height-locked" with jacks for safety. Couldn't get the image of being crushed/stuck under the Defender...! What took time was having to remove and reinstall the skid plates. Unless I missed something, this required removing the 2 aluminum skid plates, plus the aluminum nose plate to access fasteners (under the bumper), then removing the insulating/noise shield (again to access fasteners). In the process, I broke 2 of the 8 plastic fasteners holding on the shield ( door sill & wheel arch. $.45 each @ LR). Draining the oil, new filter, refill took 15 minutes...dealing with the skid plates took me an hour or more. Next time would be much faster. I would use a lift or place the Defender on ramps for better access...better yet, I recommend going the extraction method route. Maybe pulling the plates every 2nd or more interval to inspect/clean the underbelly. I did have some gravel & dried grass tucked into some areas. (Tip; the front bumper underplate is removed by lifting and pulling forward, it has two hooked arms; placing a piece of foil between the oil sump and cover prevents oil from running between the two. I used an old $7 plastic file bin to capture the oil; worked much better than my oil tray. Remember the order of removing the undercover/plates...reinstall fasteners in all locations before tightening down...there must have been 24 or more fasteners in all; tools; torx, 10mm, 13mm, 15mm & 1 1/16" for oil filter; plastic trim removal tool; air wrench if you are impatient)
I used the extraction method my first time and hated it. The second time I took off the trays. I do have a 2 post lift and it does make life easy. The trays aren't bad to deal with when the car is in the air. I would not enjoy it with my rhino ramps or quick jacks, you need room to work to angle the trays. I do wish you didn't have to remove both trays, but it's not terrible.
These posts are giving me flashbacks to LR3 oil changes with many rusted bolts holding the heavy skid plate. Love the extraction method and will never drain the Defender oil from the bottom.
