As long as it meets or exceeds STJLR.51.5122 or STJLR.03.5006 (or both) standards, the oil is approved by Land Rover for use in our engines - both P300 and P400 versions. It doesn't have to be Castrol, that's the brand they recommend, not mandate. Keep the receipt.

 

The brand doesn't matter. The specs are what's important.

 

I didn't see a reply to this question, so I'm asking again. I purchased an evacuation system, but clearly the tubes aren't long enough. Is the length and diameter of the suction tube which goes into the dipstick port known?
Have about 10000 miles on a P400 and feel it's time for an oil change.
Thanks

 

The thin dipstick hose supplied with my OEM Tools evacuation pump is 41" long and appears to suck up every drop of oil when fully inserted in the dipstick tube, so I am going to guess that a 41" (or longer) hose that fits in the dipstick tube should work.

 

Thanks,

 

Same here, the 9.5L OEM tools pump was filled to the top. I have a question regarding that OEM tools pump...did yours come with a cap to close the opening where the large tube attaches to it? I have a threaded cap with just a big hole in the middle of it.

 

No cap / lid was supplied with mine, either. I guess the large tube is supposed to remain attached to the pump with that threaded collar at all times, except when emptying the body of the pump from used oil, which can get messy if you aren't careful. I liked the way the Mityvac pump would empty a lot better.

 

Thanks Umberto! I agree, seems odd there is no way to completely close the OEM Tools pump canister once it is filled to the top with oil. I guess it's not meant to be used as a used oil storage container so I emptied the oil into a Home Depot bucket that has a lid.

 

Question for anyone, but hopefully umbertob is watching, as he originally posted this sticky thread and seems familiar with changing the oil. I am planning on purchasing a MityVac, but being old school, I was thinking of doing the first change at around 1000 miles and doing it the old fashioned way via the drain plug. My thought process behind this, though with newer manufacturing techniques and tolerances it’s probably not an issue, is to make sure any particulates or metal castoffs are removed via the movement of the oil due to gravity. I have a mental picture of the long tube inserted through the dipstick tube only sitting in one location, missing anything clinging to any corners or the bottom of the oil pan out of reach of the inserted tube. Might be overkill, but after that initial change, then using the oil vac for any future oil changes. Anyone with an opinion on this method?

 

All that stuff should be collected by the filter. And apparently pumping the oil actually gets more out than gravity draining. Beyond that - accessing the drain plug looks like a real pain since it involves removing the entire guard plate.