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Changing the oil on our LR3 involved removing the heavy skid plate and it's 13 rusted bolts. After using the vacuum method on our LR4's I'm certainly staying with it on the Defender. Fast, easy and clean. Perfect reason to change the oil more often than 21K miles.
Yes if I already had the vacuum it's a no brainer of course. Just wondering if it's not the sisyphean task folks report on other models.
I see a lot of people talking about doing short oil change intervals, but it's really unnecessary. The engine technology in a P300/P400 is light years ahead of the old Ford based petrol V8's which were used in the D3 & D4. These Ingenium engines were meant to be a best effort and close out the ICE era on a high note before we transition to EV.
The air fuel mixture on these engines is precise and lean and we run very close tolerances in these engines in tandem with big oil capacity. If your engine is seeing lots of stop and go, short trips, heavy off-roading and towing, adverse conditions, etc then I'd go with a 20,000 km/12,500 mile interval or one year- whichever comes sooner.
Of course, not everyone will believe this and will insist on changing the oil more often. The easiest way to determine for yourself if your oil has plenty of life left is to send a sample away for analysis. There are a few labs that will work with the public and give you a full report for a small fee. Oil life is not subjective or a grey area.
Final thought- use the oil we spec or that meets our specification. Standard run of the mill synthetic isn't going to handle a long interval well. You need lots of additives and a solid base to hold up over a long period of time and abuse.
I see a lot of people talking about doing short oil change intervals, but it's really unnecessary. The engine technology in a P300/P400 is light years ahead of the old Ford based petrol V8's which were used in the D3 & D4. These Ingenium engines were meant to be a best effort and close out the ICE era on a high note before we transition to EV.
The air fuel mixture on these engines is precise and lean and we run very close tolerances in these engines in tandem with big oil capacity. If your engine is seeing lots of stop and go, short trips, heavy off-roading and towing, adverse conditions, etc then I'd go with a 20,000 km/12,500 mile interval or one year- whichever comes sooner.
Of course, not everyone will believe this and will insist on changing the oil more often. The easiest way to determine for yourself if your oil has plenty of life left is to send a sample away for analysis. There are a few labs that will work with the public and give you a full report for a small fee. Oil life is not subjective or a grey area.
Final thought- use the oil we spec or that meets our specification. Standard run of the mill synthetic isn't going to handle a long interval well. You need lots of additives and a solid base to hold up over a long period of time and abuse.
Is there anything else to be done at the first service interval?
if i bring my vehicle in to a dealer, what will they do in addition to oil and filters.
Coming up on a year ownership so I figure an oil change is due soon. Almost 15k miles and almost 1 year since I bought.
Tires are already rotated. Other than the recall item and a multi-point inspectionI figure it's worth doing myself. About $350 in parts and oil including the Mityvac manual 2.3 gallon pump
So I took the defender in for an oil change and even the dealer changes the oil by the drain plug. Not sure why, does anyone have information on why the dealership is not using an extractor? Every car/truck I have had I have used an extractor
If the suction tube is not positioned in the low spot of the oil pan, not all of the oil will be extracted. Also there have been some cases where that tube becomes stuck or breaks which requires dropping the pan to retrieve the piece. In my opinion, both of these are low probability scenarios, but it's the rational for draining from the plug.
03-15-2022, 12:13 PM
