Yes, I agree that the filter should, and will, collect any foreign materials/particles but in my old school training and way of looking at it, I’m thinking that just for the initial change I want to remove any junk that I don’t want circulating in my engine. And I know that there are somewhere around 50 bolts and screws to remove but it’s only one time and I get to familiarize myself with everything else under the gravel pans. And the tube inserted with the vac process only sits in one small location and suctions, there is no pumping going on. Picture a gallon bucket, you put a straw in it and suck up the liquid from where the straw lands in the bucket. Any residue coating the remaining area will stay right there, and not go up the straw. Maybe I’m just being paranoid, but when I’m working on a vehicle or doing any other repairs, such as soldering a copper pipe or wiring an electrical panel I tend to be a perfectionist and make sure everything is done in a precise manner. Such as the solder being drawn in evenly around the fitting, or the conductors in a panel being landed securely and tightened properly. Beats a leak in a wall in the future, or a loose wire arcing and causing a fire. In any case, thanks for your input. I’ll ruminate over this for the next 800 miles until it’s time to tackle the oil change. And enjoy the incredibly engineered Defender in the meantime.

 

I don't know if the Defender has a different factory fill oil for break-in. Audi used to do that and if you changed the oil too early your engine used more oil than others that waited until 5K miles or so. I wouldn't change the Defender oil at 1000 miles, but the 21K mile change interval seems far too long. I'm going with changes every 7500 miles like I did on my LR4's.

Also, it you have the P400 6-cylinder you need the extractor form OEM tools that holds over 9 quarts of oil. The Mityvac only holds 8 quarts.

Having to remove the skid plate and all it's rusted bolts to change the oil in our LR3 was not fun. Once I did the fast and easy extraction method on our LR4's, I never even considered draining the oil from underneath.

 

I definitely like the extraction method, after years of crawling under my vehicles it will be a pleasure to avoid that. My back is getting to the point where it aches for a day or two after a job like that. I’m preparing to mount my new side steps in the next few days and I’ve already got my ice packs waiting.

 

The tube may or may not only stay in one place, but the drain hole definitely sits in just one place, so I don't see the advantage. As for pumping, that's how pumps work - by suction, whereby fluid is transported by a pressure gradient. It doesn't matter how the pressure gradient is produced, whether by rotating elements, a piston, or the venturi effect. This is a pump.

 

Agreed, that is the definition of a pump. But in all pumps, one side is the pressure side and one is the suction side. The suction side is in the bottom of the oil pan. And we can also agree that the drain hole stays in one place. But once you pull that drain plug, the draining effect of the liquid is such that everything in the oil pan is being pulled by gravity toward the drain opening with enough force to drag any sludge or particles settled in the bottom along with the viscosity of the oil into the vessel you’re using. Just my mental picture, if we could see inside the oil pan as it’s happening. I’ll judge that effectiveness when I do it, and be using the OEM extractor for subsequent oil changes.

 

My dealer, JLR Greensboro, quoted $225, using top extraction and Castrol.

 

I decided to oil change my 2022 Defender today and only 6.8 quarts of oil came out. I tried pushing the tube in and wiggly it to see if more oil would come out. After awhile I gave up and pull the tube out and it was stuck. It took almost 2 hours to finally get the tube out and I knew it was time to give up with trying to extract more oil. I wonder if it is ok to mix Liqui Moly with Castro oil until my next oil change or I should take it to get an oil change asap? I check the dipstick and the oil is in the middle, but I notice after starting the engine then recheck the dipstick.




QUOTE=WMN;803079]My dealer, JLR Greensboro, quoted $225, using top extraction and Castrol.[/QUOTE]

 

I read on one of the facetube forums that a bloke did his oil change the traditional route. Not sure which engine model but he stated it was straight forward enough. Just wondering if anyone has gone this route. My skid plate is easy to remove but I've not looked deeper in the bowels of things yet. Coming up on 8k miles in my p400 and thinking a 10k change might be a good idea to keep this beauty happy. I do a bit of off-roading but mostly highway.

The vacuum sure looks handy though.

 

FYI I had an interim oil change done on my P400 at 10k miles last month. $260. Very happy w that.

 

Changing the oil on our LR3 involved removing the heavy skid plate and it's 13 rusted bolts. After using the vacuum method on our LR4's I'm certainly staying with it on the Defender. Fast, easy and clean. Perfect reason to change the oil more often than 21K miles.