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I did this replacement Sunday myself; I hooked my Ctek charger/tender to the terminals under the hood, then fully raised/moved seat to front to remove existing battery. I had to remove the black metal bracket shown in the photo below in order to fit the replacement battery back in (I then put the bracket back in after the battery was nestled in).
After two days of driving car seems OK. I have a trip tomorrow that will require 4 hours of driving which should help see if any issues.
I sometimes think LR's manual is intentionally overly complicated. Makes it sound like working on your Defender is akin to defusing a bomb.
Is there a second, 12 volt battery? If the one under the seat is 48 volts, and the jump points under the hood are 12 volt, where is the 12 volt battery?
Is there a second, 12 volt battery? If the one under the seat is 48 volts, and the jump points under the hood are 12 volt, where is the 12 volt battery?
I believe the battery under the seat is the 12v and the 48v is in the cargo area...
Following this thread, because soon after reading the initial post I began receiving the ‘Low battery warning’. Others have indicated they had their battery replaced under warranty. I’ll be calling my dealership to request the same. Any advice appreciated.
Does it really have 24V or 48V? I'm not sure if the blackvue dash cam is draining the 12V because it's ON in parking mode for days and when I start the car it says low battery warning start the car. Blackvue has a 12V cutoff battery protection. So what's wrong?
For my case, my initial battery died within weeks of receiving the vehicle off the boat. The second went around 6 months later. So my first two were within the first year. The third was only six months later again. There was no need to justify. With any battery after a year, they do tend to amortize the remaining value in most settings before a year you tend to get full value. Now I would say the big issue is the programming of the battery module. Any time they hook a computer to any Land Rover (I assume any other high tech vehicle as well with other manufacturers) they have to attach the vehicle to an un-interuptuble power supply. So when they are programming they don't get a power failure and brick your car by being half way programmed. Anyhow, the minimum is 1 hour, or about $265 at my dealer. So unless they feel yours failed due to a system failure and you have had the installed battery, lets say two years, they may give you credit for remaining life, but still charge the programming labor. Like I said, I have not had a battery last even a year yet, so I would say my circumstances are different. I do keep track of how many times I have to charge it and what my wake up voltage is, particularly when it is less than 12V. How often the low voltage fart reminding warning comes up and how many days between warnings and a top off from the CTEK. Anyhow, it all seems to please my service advisor and in and out it comes with a new battery, no charge to me. I do try to be certain of the problem and get assurance before I embark on the 250 mile round trip to do so.
I am on the cusp of yet another battery (#4) and was going to do it next week and the 2 year service. Yet it seems that my vehicle is not up for the service advisory yet. I have done all the two year myself, except the brake fluid swap (which I hate, I get a reaction to the fluid) $299. I have to go down to Phoenix anyhow next week for the Southwest Mining Expo. Need more cool mining swag. Besides my software group is putting on a big series of mining AI offerings. Got to watch the kids perform. Anyhow, I am going to put it off and do it when the advisory N815 is applicable. So I'm going to fly down instead.
sblvro: The car has far too much tech and too small a battery/alternator combo. So the battery is constantly going down to below 12 V and if I remember my electro-chem right, the plates are either getting shorted by crystal build up or the oxides are not transferring back into the matrix. It slowly kills the battery. If there was more surplus output from the alternator it would charge faster, dissipating the oxides back where they should be. If all the systems are running and heated this and that automatic gizmo A&B it just overwhelms the system. There is a 48V system, with the batteries under the rear deck. They are for the mild hybrid and I assume the electric supercharger system. The two systems are not connected, 12V & 48V.
For my case, my initial battery died within weeks of receiving the vehicle off the boat. The second went around 6 months later. So my first two were within the first year. The third was only six months later again. There was no need to justify. With any battery after a year, they do tend to amortize the remaining value in most settings before a year you tend to get full value. Now I would say the big issue is the programming of the battery module. Any time they hook a computer to any Land Rover (I assume any other high tech vehicle as well with other manufacturers) they have to attach the vehicle to an un-interuptuble power supply. So when they are programming they don't get a power failure and brick your car by being half way programmed. Anyhow, the minimum is 1 hour, or about $265 at my dealer. So unless they feel yours failed due to a system failure and you have had the installed battery, lets say two years, they may give you credit for remaining life, but still charge the programming labor. Like I said, I have not had a battery last even a year yet, so I would say my circumstances are different. I do keep track of how many times I have to charge it and what my wake up voltage is, particularly when it is less than 12V. How often the low voltage fart reminding warning comes up and how many days between warnings and a top off from the CTEK. Anyhow, it all seems to please my service advisor and in and out it comes with a new battery, no charge to me. I do try to be certain of the problem and get assurance before I embark on the 250 mile round trip to do so.
I am on the cusp of yet another battery (#4) and was going to do it next week and the 2 year service. Yet it seems that my vehicle is not up for the service advisory yet. I have done all the two year myself, except the brake fluid swap (which I hate, I get a reaction to the fluid) $299. I have to go down to Phoenix anyhow next week for the Southwest Mining Expo. Need more cool mining swag. Besides my software group is putting on a big series of mining AI offerings. Got to watch the kids perform. Anyhow, I am going to put it off and do it when the advisory N815 is applicable. So I'm going to fly down instead.
sblvro: The car has far too much tech and too small a battery/alternator combo. So the battery is constantly going down to below 12 V and if I remember my electro-chem right, the plates are either getting shorted by crystal build up or the oxides are not transferring back into the matrix. It slowly kills the battery. If there was more surplus output from the alternator it would charge faster, dissipating the oxides back where they should be. If all the systems are running and heated this and that automatic gizmo A&B it just overwhelms the system. There is a 48V system, with the batteries under the rear deck. They are for the mild hybrid and I assume the electric supercharger system. The two systems are not connected, 12V & 48V.
Ok thanks for the heads up. It just shows low battery warming if I leave the car unlocked. But locking it, the blackvue turns off when it's really below or close to 12V. Still original battery since 2020.
Called my dealer and made an appointment for a battery replacement, and for them to force a PIVI update and take care of the NFS module update. Still waiting, three months now, for the parts to arrive for the A-pillar trim replacement.
02-06-2024, 02:35 PM
