Prepaid Service Contract?
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 407
Likes: 316
From: South Jersey
Not following your logic.
I’m talking scheduled service items such as oil changes, etc. that follow LR’s recommended schedule. If you pay for those service intervals according to the recommended schedule, they are expensive. This allowed prepayment at a reduced price. That’s it. It’s not BS service; it’s recommended according to the manufacturer.
I’m talking scheduled service items such as oil changes, etc. that follow LR’s recommended schedule. If you pay for those service intervals according to the recommended schedule, they are expensive. This allowed prepayment at a reduced price. That’s it. It’s not BS service; it’s recommended according to the manufacturer.
We've had ours for a year now and only ~9k miles
I had them perform an extra oil change (I'll do future ones myself) and a 5-tire rotation for under $300.
Other fluid changes are LONG off.
I guess I'll spend something on fillers and wipers eventually. I'll do brakes sometime in the future, probably a few years or more from now.
Anyway I encourage you to read the schedule and discover for yourself what is actually recommended.
I should look at ours again just to refresh my memory.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Mar 2021
Posts: 407
Likes: 316
From: South Jersey
Perhaps this may help:
https://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/.../proc/G2409469
If it's not on that list, they are making it up.
https://www.ownerinfo.landrover.com/.../proc/G2409469
If it's not on that list, they are making it up.
Thread Starter
|
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 30
Likes: 6
From: San Jose, CA
This particular Extended Service Contract also includes brakes.. which if you are doing pads and rotors I'm sure can be quite pricey.. Has anybody had brakes done yet.. if so how much? I'd guess almost $2k?
I never buy these, but for some reason, with this defender and not having a Jaguar or Land Rover before I was a little worried about service costs in year 3 / 4. Most of my vehicles I've had in the past 10-15 years have been leases with included maintenance. But the longer I have pondered this (about 2 weeks), the less I think I'll get anywhere near that $4k dollar amount.. I figured I was just pre-paying for service now at todays service rate vs. whatever the rate and costs will be in 3-4 years.
I know I have 60 days to cancel as it was discussed when getting it.. has anybody successful cancelled it after purchase?
I never buy these, but for some reason, with this defender and not having a Jaguar or Land Rover before I was a little worried about service costs in year 3 / 4. Most of my vehicles I've had in the past 10-15 years have been leases with included maintenance. But the longer I have pondered this (about 2 weeks), the less I think I'll get anywhere near that $4k dollar amount.. I figured I was just pre-paying for service now at todays service rate vs. whatever the rate and costs will be in 3-4 years.
I know I have 60 days to cancel as it was discussed when getting it.. has anybody successful cancelled it after purchase?
TReK
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 1,401
From: Hill Country, Tx
Late to the reply, but I think @Kev M nailed it. My bad. You bought a Service Contract, not the intentionally misnamed "Extended Warranty". My mistake in skimming the OP. I'll pivot my detailed opinion re: those, but it goes on the same lines. They don't sell them unless they will make a killing on them; they aren't supported by the OEM so you will (did) have difficulty transferring it to other locations (regardless whatever a Sales Consultant misrepresents); yada yada yada. But again, if it gives you peace of mind, I don't / won't judge your decision making. We all come with different risk profiles and tolerances for PITA (or rather the kinds of PITA we tolerate).
In my case, I'm going to do my own oil/filter changes every 5K miles. In my driving styles, I've had it >5 months and have less than 4k miles. I doubt I will ever have to do an official service at JLR for the first two years. As a result, I'm not going to need any service, nor would I pay JLR to do PM's (Preventative Maintenance items). For all the esteem people put on Dealer Service Techs, I have frequently seen them jack things up, not put on all the clips/retainers/trim screws, not care about the cosmetic details, yada yada yada. In fact, I've even seen a Service Tech forget to put on the lug nuts on a customer's wheels! That was an exciting event. They make mistakes. They are far more trained than I, but my care is far higher than theirs on maintenance items. So I'll do it myself. If someone has less time on their hands, don't have the same level of experience/skills, don't mind paying, are ok with scheduling/leaving their vehicle for unknown times, yada yada - different decisions and I think that's a great choice. Just not mine.
In this case, you have a "Service Contract" with the third party the Dealer contracted with. They will honor it and others in the company's network will honor it and those willing to do the paperwork will honor it. Anyone else (usually, most other companies) will tell you to pound sand and deal with them yourself. As @Kev M pointed out, the service intervals are suspect. If you do typical driving, the recommended PM isn't until 20,000 miles which is astounding. Also, if you don't do the PM with a JLR dealer, they are likely not to use the EXACT specification of oil which has everyone tripping out. THAT is the key to a PM whether doing it yourself or hiring a third party. At whatever interval. It's super hard to source. JLR is intentionally trying to make it hard to do your own repairs and the "right to repair" is actively being pushed. I think the oil specs and the downside if not used is one of their levers. Just pay attention here whatever you do. This is more important that who does it or thru what program.
At this point of the game, call the Sales Consultant. Put your hackles up. Immediately start F bombing him and telling him how livid you are in crazy insane terms no matter how polite you are in a normal life style. Here's a sample script of the start. You're probably a very nice person. Act just borderline insane when you call him until you get a cure. Consider it a theatrical act if it's not in your nature.
Ring..Ring..Ring..
SC: "Hey @woo90 , how you doing?"
You: "You God d@$@, Mother F@@$!! You lying piece of $@##. {Explain your frustration}. I'm going to have your @$$ on social media for the next {term} because...{fill in}
SC: "Says anything trying to defuse things"
You: Cut him off and repeat line 1
SC: Again tries to defuse things
You: "What the F'... is your {Crap} head sales manager's cell number!?"
SC: Something inane
You: Go from there and tell him you want a call from his Sales Manager.
SC: Anything.
You: Get the number or tell him to call you and then call him again repeating the same EVERY hour until you hear from the Sales Manager.
From here on out, you need to use the Marine Corps grammar structure. Everything should be what I call the Marine Haiku: "Sir, {profanity} {acronym} {profanity}, Sir!" Example:
"Sir, the God %#$ SC is F'd, Sir" or switch sir for D-head when the recipient is lower than you in rank which the Sales consultant obviously is: "D-head, the God Da#@'d SC if F'ing S#@t, D-head:"
Threaten to go ballistic on every social media that you can list to include his name, his sales manager's name and the dealership. Tell him HE needs to cure it or tow the vehicle to his Dealership and you want a loaner (no matter how far the Dealership is). See where you go from there and Good Luck!
Apologies to anyone offended, but this typically works wonders in my experience in either transmission or receiving.
In my case, I'm going to do my own oil/filter changes every 5K miles. In my driving styles, I've had it >5 months and have less than 4k miles. I doubt I will ever have to do an official service at JLR for the first two years. As a result, I'm not going to need any service, nor would I pay JLR to do PM's (Preventative Maintenance items). For all the esteem people put on Dealer Service Techs, I have frequently seen them jack things up, not put on all the clips/retainers/trim screws, not care about the cosmetic details, yada yada yada. In fact, I've even seen a Service Tech forget to put on the lug nuts on a customer's wheels! That was an exciting event. They make mistakes. They are far more trained than I, but my care is far higher than theirs on maintenance items. So I'll do it myself. If someone has less time on their hands, don't have the same level of experience/skills, don't mind paying, are ok with scheduling/leaving their vehicle for unknown times, yada yada - different decisions and I think that's a great choice. Just not mine.
In this case, you have a "Service Contract" with the third party the Dealer contracted with. They will honor it and others in the company's network will honor it and those willing to do the paperwork will honor it. Anyone else (usually, most other companies) will tell you to pound sand and deal with them yourself. As @Kev M pointed out, the service intervals are suspect. If you do typical driving, the recommended PM isn't until 20,000 miles which is astounding. Also, if you don't do the PM with a JLR dealer, they are likely not to use the EXACT specification of oil which has everyone tripping out. THAT is the key to a PM whether doing it yourself or hiring a third party. At whatever interval. It's super hard to source. JLR is intentionally trying to make it hard to do your own repairs and the "right to repair" is actively being pushed. I think the oil specs and the downside if not used is one of their levers. Just pay attention here whatever you do. This is more important that who does it or thru what program.
At this point of the game, call the Sales Consultant. Put your hackles up. Immediately start F bombing him and telling him how livid you are in crazy insane terms no matter how polite you are in a normal life style. Here's a sample script of the start. You're probably a very nice person. Act just borderline insane when you call him until you get a cure. Consider it a theatrical act if it's not in your nature.
Ring..Ring..Ring..
SC: "Hey @woo90 , how you doing?"
You: "You God d@$@, Mother F@@$!! You lying piece of $@##. {Explain your frustration}. I'm going to have your @$$ on social media for the next {term} because...{fill in}
SC: "Says anything trying to defuse things"
You: Cut him off and repeat line 1
SC: Again tries to defuse things
You: "What the F'... is your {Crap} head sales manager's cell number!?"
SC: Something inane
You: Go from there and tell him you want a call from his Sales Manager.
SC: Anything.
You: Get the number or tell him to call you and then call him again repeating the same EVERY hour until you hear from the Sales Manager.
From here on out, you need to use the Marine Corps grammar structure. Everything should be what I call the Marine Haiku: "Sir, {profanity} {acronym} {profanity}, Sir!" Example:
"Sir, the God %#$ SC is F'd, Sir" or switch sir for D-head when the recipient is lower than you in rank which the Sales consultant obviously is: "D-head, the God Da#@'d SC if F'ing S#@t, D-head:"
Threaten to go ballistic on every social media that you can list to include his name, his sales manager's name and the dealership. Tell him HE needs to cure it or tow the vehicle to his Dealership and you want a loaner (no matter how far the Dealership is). See where you go from there and Good Luck!
Apologies to anyone offended, but this typically works wonders in my experience in either transmission or receiving.
Last edited by GrouseK9; Nov 24, 2021 at 10:45 AM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1,439
Late to the reply, but I think @Kev M nailed it. My bad. You bought a Service Contract, not the intentionally misnamed "Extended Warranty". My mistake in skimming the OP. I'll pivot my detailed opinion re: those, but it goes on the same lines. They don't sell them unless they will make a killing on them; they aren't supported by the OEM so you will (did) have difficulty transferring it to other locations (regardless whatever a Sales Consultant misrepresents); yada yada yada. But again, if it gives you peace of mind, I don't / won't judge your decision making. We all come with different risk profiles and tolerances for PITA (or rather the kinds of PITA we tolerate).
In my case, I'm going to do my own oil/filter changes every 5K miles. In my driving styles, I've had it >5 months and have less than 4k miles. I doubt I will ever have to do an official service at JLR for the first two years. As a result, I'm not going to need any service, nor would I pay JLR to do PM's (Preventative Maintenance items). For all the esteem people put on Dealer Service Techs, I have frequently seen them jack things up, not put on all the clips/retainers/trim screws, not care about the cosmetic details, yada yada yada. In fact, I've even seen a Service Tech forget to put on the lug nuts on a customer's wheels! That was an exciting event. They make mistakes. They are far more trained than I, but my care is far higher than theirs on maintenance items. So I'll do it myself. If someone has less time on their hands, don't have the same level of experience/skills, don't mind paying, are ok with scheduling/leaving their vehicle for unknown times, yada yada - different decisions and I think that's a great choice. Just not mine.
In this case, you have a "Service Contract" with the third party the Dealer contracted with. They will honor it and others in the company's network will honor it and those willing to do the paperwork will honor it. Anyone else (usually, most other companies) will tell you to pound sand and deal with them yourself. Ask @Kev M pointed out, the service intervals are suspect. If you do typical driving, the recommended PM isn't until 20,000 miles which is astounding. Also, if you don't do the PM with a JLR dealer, they are likely not to use the EXACT specification of oil which has everyone tripping out. THAT is the key to a PM whether doing it yourself or hiring a third party. At whatever interval. It's super hard to source. JLR is intentionally trying to make it hard to do your own repairs and the "right to repair" is actively being pushed. I think the oil specs and the downside if not used is one of their levers. Just pay attention here whatever you do. This is more important that who does it or thru what program.
At this point of the game, call the Sales Consultant. Put your hackles up. Immediately start F bombing him and telling him how livid you are in crazy insane terms no matter how polite you are in a normal life style. Here's a sample script of the start. You're probably a very nice person. Act just borderline insane when you call him until you get a cure. Consider it a theatrical act if it's not in your nature.
Ring..Ring..Ring..
SC: "Hey @woo90 , how you doing?"
You: "You God d@$@, Mother F@@$!! You lying piece of $@##. {Explain your frustration}. I'm going to have your @$$ on social media for the next {term} because...{fill in}
SC: "Says anything trying to defuse things"
You: Cut him off and repeat line 1
SC: Again tries to defuse things
You: "What the F'... is your {Crap} head sales manager's cell number!?"
SC: Something inane
You: Go from there and tell him you want a call from his Sales Manager.
SC: Anything.
You: Get the number or tell him to call you and then call him again repeating the same EVERY hour until you hear from the Sales Manager.
From here on out, you need to use the Marine Corps grammar structure. Everything should be what I call the Marine Haiku: "Sir, {profanity} {acronym} {profanity}, Sir!" Example:
"Sir, the God %#$ SC is F'd, Sir" or switch sir for D-head when the recipient is lower than you in rank which the Sales consultant obviously is: "D-head, the God Da#@'d SC if F'ing S#@t, D-head:"
Threaten to go ballistic on every social media that you can list to include his name, his sales manager's name and the dealership. Tell him HE needs to cure it or tow the vehicle to his Dealership and you want a loaner (no matter how far the Dealership is). See where you go from there and Good Luck!
Apologies to anyone offended, but this typically works wonders in my experience in either transmission or receiving.
In my case, I'm going to do my own oil/filter changes every 5K miles. In my driving styles, I've had it >5 months and have less than 4k miles. I doubt I will ever have to do an official service at JLR for the first two years. As a result, I'm not going to need any service, nor would I pay JLR to do PM's (Preventative Maintenance items). For all the esteem people put on Dealer Service Techs, I have frequently seen them jack things up, not put on all the clips/retainers/trim screws, not care about the cosmetic details, yada yada yada. In fact, I've even seen a Service Tech forget to put on the lug nuts on a customer's wheels! That was an exciting event. They make mistakes. They are far more trained than I, but my care is far higher than theirs on maintenance items. So I'll do it myself. If someone has less time on their hands, don't have the same level of experience/skills, don't mind paying, are ok with scheduling/leaving their vehicle for unknown times, yada yada - different decisions and I think that's a great choice. Just not mine.
In this case, you have a "Service Contract" with the third party the Dealer contracted with. They will honor it and others in the company's network will honor it and those willing to do the paperwork will honor it. Anyone else (usually, most other companies) will tell you to pound sand and deal with them yourself. Ask @Kev M pointed out, the service intervals are suspect. If you do typical driving, the recommended PM isn't until 20,000 miles which is astounding. Also, if you don't do the PM with a JLR dealer, they are likely not to use the EXACT specification of oil which has everyone tripping out. THAT is the key to a PM whether doing it yourself or hiring a third party. At whatever interval. It's super hard to source. JLR is intentionally trying to make it hard to do your own repairs and the "right to repair" is actively being pushed. I think the oil specs and the downside if not used is one of their levers. Just pay attention here whatever you do. This is more important that who does it or thru what program.
At this point of the game, call the Sales Consultant. Put your hackles up. Immediately start F bombing him and telling him how livid you are in crazy insane terms no matter how polite you are in a normal life style. Here's a sample script of the start. You're probably a very nice person. Act just borderline insane when you call him until you get a cure. Consider it a theatrical act if it's not in your nature.
Ring..Ring..Ring..
SC: "Hey @woo90 , how you doing?"
You: "You God d@$@, Mother F@@$!! You lying piece of $@##. {Explain your frustration}. I'm going to have your @$$ on social media for the next {term} because...{fill in}
SC: "Says anything trying to defuse things"
You: Cut him off and repeat line 1
SC: Again tries to defuse things
You: "What the F'... is your {Crap} head sales manager's cell number!?"
SC: Something inane
You: Go from there and tell him you want a call from his Sales Manager.
SC: Anything.
You: Get the number or tell him to call you and then call him again repeating the same EVERY hour until you hear from the Sales Manager.
From here on out, you need to use the Marine Corps grammar structure. Everything should be what I call the Marine Haiku: "Sir, {profanity} {acronym} {profanity}, Sir!" Example:
"Sir, the God %#$ SC is F'd, Sir" or switch sir for D-head when the recipient is lower than you in rank which the Sales consultant obviously is: "D-head, the God Da#@'d SC if F'ing S#@t, D-head:"
Threaten to go ballistic on every social media that you can list to include his name, his sales manager's name and the dealership. Tell him HE needs to cure it or tow the vehicle to his Dealership and you want a loaner (no matter how far the Dealership is). See where you go from there and Good Luck!
Apologies to anyone offended, but this typically works wonders in my experience in either transmission or receiving.
TReK
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 2,086
Likes: 1,401
From: Hill Country, Tx
Surprisingly, I was in my 30's (I'm currently halfway between old-fart and curmudgeon) when I was astonished to find out that you could "fire a customer". I saw a General Manager of a Dealership do that! I was amazed and we talked about it afterwards. The above technique works wonders at the SC & SM level. The tactics change when you get to the GM/Owner/RGM level. Then the conversation goes amazingly in a different direction. I wasn't going to go there until @woo90 got to that point. But I'll continue the role playing at the top leadership level for the Dealership. The Leaders almost ALWAYS struggle to ensure great customer service and if they get a "problem" it's because everyone failed before them. I say that top leaders deal with the worse problems because all the easy ones are already taken care of. ALL DAY LONG they only get the turds no one else can flush and they are the only ones who can just fire a customer. Good shops will cure problems. You want it to cure. You only get here if they don't won't get cured. As General Swarzkopf said during the Gulf War: you go to war with the Troops you got, not the Troops you need. So that Dealer is likely going to do things that their team can't or won't. Most companies would like to upgrade some employees, they just can't. So the top Leaders deal with some problems. At that point the script should go along these lines:
GM: Hey, @woo90 I hear you have a problem, how can I help?
You: Yeah, I'm really disappointed that I have to take up your time on my problem, but you seem to be the one that can help me.
GM: I hope I can do that.
You: That's great because 5-star reviews happen from great customer service and I love giving 5-star reviews when companies can cure problems. {Explain issue}
GM: Here's what we can do
At this point, know your options that you will "settle" for before talking to the GM/Owner. If they can't solve the options, then negotiate. Options I would put on the table, your priorities may vary:
- Refund of the Service Contract
- Reimburse the Service work
- They file for the reimbursement and pay you for the work
As @_Allegedly points out: techniques MUST vary according to level of employee.
GM: Hey, @woo90 I hear you have a problem, how can I help?
You: Yeah, I'm really disappointed that I have to take up your time on my problem, but you seem to be the one that can help me.
GM: I hope I can do that.
You: That's great because 5-star reviews happen from great customer service and I love giving 5-star reviews when companies can cure problems. {Explain issue}
GM: Here's what we can do
At this point, know your options that you will "settle" for before talking to the GM/Owner. If they can't solve the options, then negotiate. Options I would put on the table, your priorities may vary:
- Refund of the Service Contract
- Reimburse the Service work
- They file for the reimbursement and pay you for the work
As @_Allegedly points out: techniques MUST vary according to level of employee.
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 145
Likes: 79
I would not have buyers remorse necessarily. I think the pre-paid service plus wear and tear (which is what it sounds like you bought) is cost effective if: 1) You drive a lot of miles and will keep your vehicle 3-4 years, 2) You are the type of person who takes your vehicle to the dealership for all scheduled maintenance/service, and 3) Your dealership is in a part of the country where the service hourly rate is quite high (as it is in NY and NJ). For me, you can check off all the boxes for 1, 2, and 3. I did the math and it is cost effective.
One thing I will say in regards to replacing brake pads and rotors, in my 2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography, I went through brake pads and rotors surprisingly fast--I was stunned. It turns out that if your vehicle has electronic active differential with torque vectoring by braking (which I did have in my RRS), you will eat thru brake pads and rotors much faster than you think, and I learned the hard way how expensive that is w/o a prepaid plan. That being said, I have about 32,685 miles on my 2020 Defender thus far and the brake pads definitely last longer--because my vehicle doesn't have torque vectoring (I think the V-8 Defender may have it).
Below is my estimate for what it would cost if I did not purchase the "pre-paid service plus wear and tear" on the new Defender (NY/NJ area pricing). But in summary, if you do meet 1, 2, & 3 from above, it is cost effective.
$441 - Wipers plus 21,000 mile (first) service (approx)
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
One thing I will say in regards to replacing brake pads and rotors, in my 2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography, I went through brake pads and rotors surprisingly fast--I was stunned. It turns out that if your vehicle has electronic active differential with torque vectoring by braking (which I did have in my RRS), you will eat thru brake pads and rotors much faster than you think, and I learned the hard way how expensive that is w/o a prepaid plan. That being said, I have about 32,685 miles on my 2020 Defender thus far and the brake pads definitely last longer--because my vehicle doesn't have torque vectoring (I think the V-8 Defender may have it).
Below is my estimate for what it would cost if I did not purchase the "pre-paid service plus wear and tear" on the new Defender (NY/NJ area pricing). But in summary, if you do meet 1, 2, & 3 from above, it is cost effective.
$441 - Wipers plus 21,000 mile (first) service (approx)
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
Pro Wrench
Joined: Jun 2021
Posts: 1,558
Likes: 1,439
$441 - Wipers plus 21,000 mile (first) service (approx)
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
Mudding
Joined: Oct 2019
Posts: 145
Likes: 79
With the 4-year prepaid service with wear & tear plan, you get 2 sets (brake pads/rotors/pad sensors) of replacements over the span of 4 years. I drive high mileage (already at 32,000+ and have owned less than 1 1/2 years so far). So far I do not need new pads yet, but I plan on getting new pads/rotors at the end of year 2 (using set #1). Will then replace again (using the 2nd set) at the end of year 4. If your Defender has Torque Vectoring by Braking, you will burn thru brake pads and rotors much faster (I don't have this on my 2020 Defender, but the new models do offer Torque Vectoring by Braking).
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
Rock Crawling
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 391
Likes: 291
I would not have buyers remorse necessarily. I think the pre-paid service plus wear and tear (which is what it sounds like you bought) is cost effective if: 1) You drive a lot of miles and will keep your vehicle 3-4 years, 2) You are the type of person who takes your vehicle to the dealership for all scheduled maintenance/service, and 3) Your dealership is in a part of the country where the service hourly rate is quite high (as it is in NY and NJ). For me, you can check off all the boxes for 1, 2, and 3. I did the math and it is cost effective.
One thing I will say in regards to replacing brake pads and rotors, in my 2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography, I went through brake pads and rotors surprisingly fast--I was stunned. It turns out that if your vehicle has electronic active differential with torque vectoring by braking (which I did have in my RRS), you will eat thru brake pads and rotors much faster than you think, and I learned the hard way how expensive that is w/o a prepaid plan. That being said, I have about 32,685 miles on my 2020 Defender thus far and the brake pads definitely last longer--because my vehicle doesn't have torque vectoring (I think the V-8 Defender may have it).
Below is my estimate for what it would cost if I did not purchase the "pre-paid service plus wear and tear" on the new Defender (NY/NJ area pricing). But in summary, if you do meet 1, 2, & 3 from above, it is cost effective.
$441 - Wipers plus 21,000 mile (first) service (approx)
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
One thing I will say in regards to replacing brake pads and rotors, in my 2015 Range Rover Sport Autobiography, I went through brake pads and rotors surprisingly fast--I was stunned. It turns out that if your vehicle has electronic active differential with torque vectoring by braking (which I did have in my RRS), you will eat thru brake pads and rotors much faster than you think, and I learned the hard way how expensive that is w/o a prepaid plan. That being said, I have about 32,685 miles on my 2020 Defender thus far and the brake pads definitely last longer--because my vehicle doesn't have torque vectoring (I think the V-8 Defender may have it).
Below is my estimate for what it would cost if I did not purchase the "pre-paid service plus wear and tear" on the new Defender (NY/NJ area pricing). But in summary, if you do meet 1, 2, & 3 from above, it is cost effective.
$441 - Wipers plus 21,000 mile (first) service (approx)
$1,324 - 1st rear brake pad/rotors (estimate)
$115 - Yr 2 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,324 - Front brakes/rotors (approx cost)
$115 - Yr 3 front/rear wiper replacement
$1,394 - Rear brakes/rotors (approx cost before taxes)
$3,161 - 2nd service plus front brakes/rotors (includes tax)
$115 - Yr 4 front/rear wiper replacement
$7,989 Estimated grand total if did not have prepaid maintenance plan
----------------------------------------------------------
2020 Defender 110 First Edition Indus Silver (Current)
2020 Discovery HSE Luxury Si6 Fuji White (Current)
2015 RRS Autobiography Fuji White (Former)
2011 RRS Supercharged Fuji White (Former)
2008 LR2 Fuji White (Former)
Someone on the forum with off-road pack (active electronic rear differential with torque vectoring by braking) reported that the brakes on his defender after 21,000 miles were still fine as inspected and reported by the dealer, and he evidently drives his defender spiritedly.
Post #17 of the thread below:
https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...ispreloading=1
Last edited by sacharama; Nov 26, 2021 at 09:08 AM.
