Problems With A Valentine 1 Radar Detector
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 28
Likes: 6
Problems With A Valentine 1 Radar Detector
I plugged my V1 into my 2021 Defender and it seems to be detecting a constant radar hit from the rear of the car. Does anyone else have this problem? Is it to do within the radar in the rear of the defender for safety?
Three Wheeling
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 76
Likes: 53
Disable everything but Ka band and laser on the radar detector. I'm assuming the signal you're getting is K. Many cars seem to emit K band now related to radar cruise control and other driver's aids. Hopefully local law enforcement in your area doesn't use K.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 824
From: Boston, MA
Is it the original V1? If so, upgrade to the generation two V1. You will be so glad you did. No more constant beeping from the rear of every Honda product or every oncoming Volvo and Infiniti. And it is amazing at finding Ka radar far in the distance.
Just be sure to mount it to the left of the mirror where there is that clear glass cut-out. I ran the cord across the headliner, down the A-pillar and across to the center console socket plug. Use a credit card or plastic putty knife to stuff the cord behind the A-pillar. Just need to pull off the panel on the left side of the dashboard and the exposed screws make that easy. Then remove the panel under the steering wheel to bring the wire across.
On my LR4 I just tapped into the dome light wire near the rearview mirror to power the V1. But with the forward camera and and other electronics inside that Defender front headliner console, I wasn't confident tapping into that wiring.
Just be sure to mount it to the left of the mirror where there is that clear glass cut-out. I ran the cord across the headliner, down the A-pillar and across to the center console socket plug. Use a credit card or plastic putty knife to stuff the cord behind the A-pillar. Just need to pull off the panel on the left side of the dashboard and the exposed screws make that easy. Then remove the panel under the steering wheel to bring the wire across.
On my LR4 I just tapped into the dome light wire near the rearview mirror to power the V1. But with the forward camera and and other electronics inside that Defender front headliner console, I wasn't confident tapping into that wiring.
Last edited by PaulLR; Apr 4, 2021 at 08:16 AM.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 442
From: SE PA
I wired mine into power up near the sunroof motor feed in my Disco, which is always hot. It's a major PITA. If I'm not driving the truck for 4 or 5 days it will drain the battery when I forget to shut it off. Which is way more often than I had figured I'd be good for, even at my advanced age 
. My advice would be to find switched power.
. My advice would be to find switched power.
Thread Starter
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 28
Likes: 6
Is it the original V1? If so, upgrade to the generation two V1. You will be so glad you did. No more constant beeping from the rear of every Honda product or every oncoming Volvo and Infiniti. And it is amazing at finding Ka radar far in the distance.
Just be sure to mount it to the left of the mirror where there is that clear glass cut-out. I ran the cord across the headliner, down the A-pillar and across to the center console socket plug. Use a credit card or plastic putty knife to stuff the cord behind the A-pillar. Just need to pull off the panel on the left side of the dashboard and the exposed screws make that easy. Then remove the panel under the steering wheel to bring the wire across.
On my LR4 I just tapped into the dome light wire near the rearview mirror to power the V1. But with the forward camera and and other electronics inside that Defender front headliner console, I wasn't confident tapping into that wiring.
Just be sure to mount it to the left of the mirror where there is that clear glass cut-out. I ran the cord across the headliner, down the A-pillar and across to the center console socket plug. Use a credit card or plastic putty knife to stuff the cord behind the A-pillar. Just need to pull off the panel on the left side of the dashboard and the exposed screws make that easy. Then remove the panel under the steering wheel to bring the wire across.
On my LR4 I just tapped into the dome light wire near the rearview mirror to power the V1. But with the forward camera and and other electronics inside that Defender front headliner console, I wasn't confident tapping into that wiring.
Winching
Joined: Jul 2020
Posts: 545
Likes: 565
From: San Gabriel, CA USA
I piggybacked off the Air Ionizer fuse in the passenger compartment fuse box for my radar detector. The detector will turn on only when the engine runs (it will stay off with the ignition on but the engine not running.) If you are interested, I posted thread here: https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...nstall-102271/
I don't have a V1, but a fairly sensitive Uniden R3 unit that lacks the direction arrows of a Valentine but is otherwise every bit as sensitive. As you will see in the other thread it's mounted kind of low above the center dash, no false alerts. Built-in GPS works great there too and the solar attenuating windshield doesn't appear to affect sensitivity to radar detection. But yeah, as others have recommended even in the original V1 you should lock out K, X - perhaps even laser - and likely eliminate a huge number of false alerts without jeopardizing detection of real bogeys from you local LEO. Pretty much all self respecting law enforcement agencies these days use either laser (in which case you're toast anyway) or Ka band radar guns operating on very limited frequencies. There are even databases online that tell you what your local agencies are likely to use for speed detection.
I don't have a V1, but a fairly sensitive Uniden R3 unit that lacks the direction arrows of a Valentine but is otherwise every bit as sensitive. As you will see in the other thread it's mounted kind of low above the center dash, no false alerts. Built-in GPS works great there too and the solar attenuating windshield doesn't appear to affect sensitivity to radar detection. But yeah, as others have recommended even in the original V1 you should lock out K, X - perhaps even laser - and likely eliminate a huge number of false alerts without jeopardizing detection of real bogeys from you local LEO. Pretty much all self respecting law enforcement agencies these days use either laser (in which case you're toast anyway) or Ka band radar guns operating on very limited frequencies. There are even databases online that tell you what your local agencies are likely to use for speed detection.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 824
From: Boston, MA
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 1,135
Likes: 824
From: Boston, MA
[QUOTE=umbertob;768603]
Pretty much all self respecting law enforcement agencies these days use either laser (in which case you're toast anyway) or Ka band radar guns operating on very limited frequencies. /QUOTE]
On my LR4 I still have a 4-head ALP system installed. Back when I used to travel a lot to meet in person with clients it saved me so many times. And they provide frequent software updates as new laser guns come out. Highly recommend ALP if you need laser defense.
https://www.alpriorityusa.com/
But since the pandemic all my meetings are virtual so I won't be installing an ALP system in the Defender.
Pretty much all self respecting law enforcement agencies these days use either laser (in which case you're toast anyway) or Ka band radar guns operating on very limited frequencies. /QUOTE]
On my LR4 I still have a 4-head ALP system installed. Back when I used to travel a lot to meet in person with clients it saved me so many times. And they provide frequent software updates as new laser guns come out. Highly recommend ALP if you need laser defense.
https://www.alpriorityusa.com/
But since the pandemic all my meetings are virtual so I won't be installing an ALP system in the Defender.