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Radard detector and dash cam hardwire install

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Old Jul 3, 2021 | 08:14 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by umbertob
The green / brown wire on the bottom right corner of the connector in your photo (slot # 1) should be the power for the mirror, from the passenger junction box, fuse 17. See attached.

Black wire in slot # 3 is your ground.
Well that worked out just fine! Thanks again! If anyone wants to do the same I used a 15inch mirror tap off Amazon. It was 40 dollars but worth every penny.

final product looks clean.



 
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Old Jul 3, 2021 | 02:03 PM
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how did you pop off the side of the rear view mirror cover? mirror tap means 15 inch or 1.5 inch? I might just try just your regular wiretap.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2021 | 06:49 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by sblvro
how did you pop off the side of the rear view mirror cover? mirror tap means 15 inch or 1.5 inch? I might just try just your regular wiretap.
Just took a very small flat head screwdriver and started at the top where the headliner is. Pull towards the driver side and it will pop right off. And yes 15inch works perfect.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2021 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by HMBodo08
Just took a very small flat head screwdriver and started at the top where the headliner is. Pull towards the driver side and it will pop right off. And yes 15inch works perfect.
Which wires did you tap into? Looks like a very neat job.
 
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Old Jul 4, 2021 | 12:06 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by GavinC
Which wires did you tap into? Looks like a very neat job.

see picture.


 
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Old Jul 4, 2021 | 12:09 PM
  #16  
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Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 4, 2021 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by HMBodo08
see picture.

Thanks. Very helpful indeed. That's what I was thinking after @umbertob 's post but just wanted to double check. Much appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 06:09 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by umbertob
Saturday morning project. I moved my trusty Uniden R3 radar detector and dash cam from my dearly departed LR4, to the Defender. Unlike the LR4 I could not find a suitable place to hardwire either above the overhead console - lots of wires and plenty of room up there, but everything is encased in plastic and I could not find a grounded bolt to connect these devices to. So, I installed a couple of fuse tap piggybacks in the passenger fuse box compartment using the 5 amp receptacles for wireless phone charger (F11) for the camera and the 5 amp receptacle for the air ionizer (F52) for the radar detector. Wired that way, the dash cam will turn on when you unlock the car or open a door, and turn off when you lock the car (or about 5 minutes later if you don't lock it.) The radar detector will turn on when you start the engine and turn off when you shut if off, both of which are fine.

Running wires was fairly easy with a couple of plastic tools, along the roof liner's front edge (camera) or bottom windshield (detector,) then down the RH A-pillar cover and into the fuse box compartment to connect to the two piggyback taps. There are some grounding screw available there. I used this video on YouTube as a reference, removing the side panel as shown in the video makes installation a breeze: https://youtu.be/a21drm3CYcU

Any questions, feel free to ask.

Umberto






Hi Umberto,

Great set up. Is your windscreen heated?

Thanks!
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 06:59 PM
  #19  
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Yes, and yet it doesn't seem to affect my Uniden R3's capability to sniff out bogeys from a mile away.
 
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Old Aug 26, 2021 | 07:29 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by umbertob
Yes, and yet it doesn't seem to affect my Uniden R3's capability to sniff out bogeys from a mile away.
Nice!

I mounted my R7 today lower windscreen like you did, so will go out and try to find some fuzz haha.

Not sure how else to test.

 
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