Radard detector and dash cam hardwire install
I went to Best Buy to have a Uniden R8 installed yesterday and was immediately turned away from the install team because they said the Land Rover Defender lacks the wiring ability to make it so the radar knows to turn on/off with the car, and that I needed this OBD2 accessory trigger wiring kit. Is this true? or am I good just buying 15 inch mirror plug kit off amazon? Thanks in advance for any insight on this
No need whatsoever for that OBD2 whatzit. Straight into the mirror tap, yes.
Not sure if it matters, but I have Clearsight mirror - and mine worked this way. I think a non-clearsight mirror will still have same power connections for the other functions.
I have an R7, neat install and I prefer it over my hidden system ($$$) I had in last Rover.
After trying a few diff mounts, I bought a permanent mount off Amazon for the detector . Bonus if you can find one with black 3m adhesive tape instead of grey. I thought the grey tape looked weird thru the windshield with all the black around the sensors right next to it - the mounting bracket in the link though has grey tape. So I bought this and replaced it.
Best place I found to mount it FYI was very very top of windshield just to left of the camera/sensor plastic trim in the center.
Fire Best Buy on this one though, you can do it yourself! Careful not to break the tabs on the windshield holding that plastic camera trim piece on. Pry very gently bottom left and right corners first I think is what works for mine.
Not sure if it matters, but I have Clearsight mirror - and mine worked this way. I think a non-clearsight mirror will still have same power connections for the other functions.
I have an R7, neat install and I prefer it over my hidden system ($$$) I had in last Rover.
After trying a few diff mounts, I bought a permanent mount off Amazon for the detector . Bonus if you can find one with black 3m adhesive tape instead of grey. I thought the grey tape looked weird thru the windshield with all the black around the sensors right next to it - the mounting bracket in the link though has grey tape. So I bought this and replaced it.
Best place I found to mount it FYI was very very top of windshield just to left of the camera/sensor plastic trim in the center.
Fire Best Buy on this one though, you can do it yourself! Careful not to break the tabs on the windshield holding that plastic camera trim piece on. Pry very gently bottom left and right corners first I think is what works for mine.
Last edited by nashvegas; Jan 20, 2023 at 09:41 PM.
Awesome - and thank you so much for those links -
I was definitely frustrated with Best Buy because I drove an hour to get there, even though they asked me what type of car I had, on two different phone calls to confirm everything -
I don't have any of the basic equipment to install this myself - its been way too long since I've worked with splicing/connecting wires so I figure its just best to pay someone to do it for me -
Back in my younger car days I would happily take on this project which yes is probably simple, but again I dont even have wire splicers - which I assume this takes some of that
I was definitely frustrated with Best Buy because I drove an hour to get there, even though they asked me what type of car I had, on two different phone calls to confirm everything -
I don't have any of the basic equipment to install this myself - its been way too long since I've worked with splicing/connecting wires so I figure its just best to pay someone to do it for me -
Back in my younger car days I would happily take on this project which yes is probably simple, but again I dont even have wire splicers - which I assume this takes some of that
I agree with NashVegas. A couple things I learned - you will need the thinnest bladed wiretap, the larger size won’t fit in the plug, and the green/brown wire that is “hot” (on mine at least, no Clearview) is the same circuit that powers the interior lights, so my Radenso fires up when you open the door and after you exit the vehicle it will stay on until the interior lights go out. I can’t image that it draws enough current to worry about the battery.
I agree with NashVegas. A couple things I learned - you will need the thinnest bladed wiretap, the larger size won’t fit in the plug, and the green/brown wire that is “hot” (on mine at least, no Clearview) is the same circuit that powers the interior lights, so my Radenso fires up when you open the door and after you exit the vehicle it will stay on until the interior lights go out. I can’t image that it draws enough current to worry about the battery.
I took the easy way to wire my V-1 since I didn't want to tap into any wires in the rearview mirror/camera console. I used the 12V outlet plug under the center screen and ran the cord under the dash, up the left A-pillar and under the front edge of the headliner. V-1 is mounted to the left of the rearview mirror console. It goes on and off with the interior lights which is fine for me. To run the cord, you just need to take off the plastic panel under the steering wheel and the far left dash panel with the big torx screws.
I took the easy way to wire my V-1 since I didn't want to tap into any wires in the rearview mirror/camera console. I used the 12V outlet plug under the center screen and ran the cord under the dash, up the left A-pillar and under the front edge of the headliner. V-1 is mounted to the left of the rearview mirror console. It goes on and off with the interior lights which is fine for me. To run the cord, you just need to take off the plastic panel under the steering wheel and the far left dash panel with the big torx screws.


