How heavy are they, give or take?

 

No idea. All I had time to do was uncrate them. The shipping ticket said 250 lbs. So i'd guess 100 to 120 lbs per side (including the all bits and pieces).

 

If they are anything like my LR3 Sliders 100 lbs per side is a safe bet.

 

These look terrific! They look extremely suitable to execute what I view as the most critical shielding job necessary off-road. 100 lbs a side is a small price to pay

I have mine on order and I look forward to installing them whenever they arrive.

 

As an update, I just hung up from a call with Lucky8 about the absence of instructions in the box. They said they are still finalizing them and hope to get them completed by the end of the week and will email them to all who have purchased.

 

Yes, I agree we need to stay aware, here:

1) I hope the steel is simple carbon steel, not stainless, as the galvanic potential between steel and aluminum vs. stainless steel and aluminum is much less. In either case the aluminum is at risk of being corroded, without taking isolation steps. So, isolation is necessary.

Considering the price and weight of the sliders, I expect the sliders are neither stainless steel nor aluminum -- this we need to confirm with Lucky8. I will write them and ask and let you all know.

2) Here are some websites which may be helpful for understanding:
https://galvanizeit.org/design-and-f...als-in-contact
https://www.trailer-bodybuilders.com...similar-metals
https://www.marshfasteners.com/can-s...used-together/

3) My plan is to: a) confirm we have a simple carbon steel in the slider, b) insulate with rubber between the bolt heads & bolt shaft and the slider, c) insulate between the steel surfaces and the aluminum frame using rubberized tape, d) consider using bolts of a material (magnesium $$$) of adequate strength which will not corrode the aluminum and use a non-corroding (zinc) thread coating which keeps out moisture, e) disassemble / inspect the most corrosive joints regularly, and f) be thankful I live in a low salt environment.

The other option is to NOT use the sliders, but for me this will be much more risky than what is noted, above -- as smashing an aluminum structural sill of a monocoque body vehicle would border on tragic and I will be off-road very often in the regular use of the vehicle.

I welcome others thoughts / ideas on this topic, please.

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How to attach aluminum to steel

When bringing aluminum and steel into contact, you can also use a thin layer of non-absorbent insulate between them. Rubber or plastic can work, depending on the application. You can also use polypropylene tape or prime the parts with a protective coating. Even with such treatments having been done, you should use a corrosion-inhibiting material of some kind – such as pastes, washers, etc. – under the heads of bolts and screws as a further preventive measure.

 

These are powder coated right? Most Lucky8 stuff is I believe. Thoughts on aluminum washers over rubber isolators? Have closer pics of mounting points... and how many mounting points are there?

 

Yes, they are powder coated. No instructions yet, so no details on mounting, but they appear to have 7 total mounting points. 5 along the sill area and 2 underneath the body. I’m going to look at the install instructions for the factory side steps/bar and see what hardware they are using.

 

I think the aluminum washers would act as sacrificial anodes -- so could theoretically protect the autobody if placed between the slider and the body. We would just need to check joint tightness regularly and make sure to replace them before they corrode away entirely.

The powder coating will certainly help, until it is worn away at the joints between the slider and the body.

 

I think aluminum rock sliders are better. Aluminum bolts too. The steel bolts will provide continuity to the aluminum body and the steel rock sliders which can't be good?