I guess you could use the tubing of the steps protruding out of the rock sliders as one big, long jacking point? The slot on the head of the scissors jack is kind of narrow but should (hopefully) be large enough to receive those side tubes more securely than the smooth surface of the sliders, and you also wouldn't have to crawl under the car to position the jack, always preferable should disaster strike. Try it out in your garage and see. That supplied scissors jack looks like an accident waiting to happen on uneven surfaces off-road, but I've used it before with my LR4 and RRS (both with similar sliders) and as long as you are very careful to position it straight and check that it doesn't start twisting and bending as you raise the vehicle, it will work in a pinch. The ARB Jack is great of course, but quite bulky and spendy, and Hi-Lift Jacks - which the off-road community is perpetually in love with - are even bulkier and scare the crap out of me every time I see them in use.

 

I’ll give that a try, though I think a rubber pad will still be needed. Hi lift jacks scare me too and I’d rather not have one on the roof all the time. I don’t mind the money for the arb as long as I can figure out where it rides in the car. That may be the solution. The scissor Jack is certainly useless off road. Not sure what all these off road defenders plan to do if they lose a tire off road and just have that scissor Jack. The car should’ve come with bumper/frame Jack points.

 

I went out and bought a 6 ton bottle jack and find it safer than a scissor jack. I was watching a video by Ronny Dahl and he was all about bottle jacks offroad. I tried it under the defender jacking points and it worked great.

 

I might look at a bottle too, but just to clarify, the car’s inner jacking points get covered by smooth metal with the rock sliders.

 

You can buy a flat metal plate to replace the circle plate on the bottle jack. You can even buy a v shape for the jacking points pre-rock sliders.

 

Yeah, I see those attachments. Also see one that will fit under the rock slider bars outboard. The arb Jack has no available attachments for grabbing round rock slider bars, so I’m nixing that option. Seems way too dangerous to hope the little lip on the arb would not slip off a smooth round bar. Kind of wish the rock sliders had cut outs so at least I could use the v’s in a pinch if all I had available was the scissor Jack. Now I have to carry something else all the time.

 

The lucky8 guys said they use the arb Jack and like it a lot. Guess I’ll be spending more money.

 

BTW, I did notice a change in noise level and type of noise after install, so I went ahead and removed the transmission lower plate, cut the fiber board so it would fit with the sliders installed, and reinstalled it sandwiched between the metal plates. That helped a lot, and clearly there’s a reason that soft material is sandwiched between those two metal plates. Was easy to cut the fiber with a jigsaw, and this has the added benefit of filling the space right behind the front tire that would have just sent tons of crud onto the slider plate. There’s still a bit of additional noise though not much, but I do want to cover the gas tanks with something, so I may cut the two side fiber boards to see if they can be refit by just having the outboard edge sit on top of the slider plates. Otherwise I guess we can see if lucky8 comes out with gas tank plates. I was also thinking it might make sense to spray some 3M or Boom may rubber sound deadening spray on the expose metal sheeting underneath as well as the gas tanks if I want it even more quiet.