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@GCSchmidt was looking at your set up, to gain inspo. What ditch lights and bracket did you go with? I've been trying to isolate what that antenna looking thing is as well. Love how clean you chose to go.
@GCSchmidt was looking at your set up, to gain inspo. What ditch lights and bracket did you go with? I've been trying to isolate what that antenna looking thing is as well. Love how clean you chose to go.
Rigid Industries D-SS Pro Driving Lights on the Saltek Motorsports Hood Mounted Ditch Light Brackets and mounted the Midland MXTA24 Low Profile Antenna Cable and Midland MXTA25 Ghost Antenna to a bracket I fabricated.
Ditch Lights:
-Rigid Industries D-SS Pro Flood Pair (sku: 262113)
I was most of the way through this got the wiring for antenna and switch pro through the firewall at the steering column. Was getting ready to wire the switch pro which I thought would be easy but they mention and Saltek also has detailed instructions for the negative wire to the battery. Is that really needed? There is a great negative lug right there in the engine bay.
I did not wire in an SwitchPro (used an SPOD) but I wired directly to the terminal post in the engine bay. Works like a charm. Can't imagine it would be that much different
I may just do it. They say it can cause some interference. But why go the difficult route. I can just get another wire through this steering area. I bet i can get it across under the dash.
I am surprised how small gauge the black ground wire from switch pro is.
Yeah if the negative is long enough, super simple to go through the driver side boot since you’ve already punctured it, and its very simple to go through the center console to the battery, holes all the way through under those side panels.
Last edited by Mcdooogs; Jun 10, 2023 at 07:16 AM.
Got lazy and just thought i would try the negative post in engine bay. Working great.
next gotcha was i had a bunch of add a fuse and they are all mini. Go to use it and the fuses are micro. Part arriving today. For now put the wire in with the fuse. To test.
needed longer bolt for side with antenna mount. Also on the way. Wires can get pinched with hood had to play with that a bit.
For those of you who have a switch-pros, I have heard the 12v trigger takes about a second to activate.
I was thinking of having the high beam trigger the light bar. I would be annoyed by a long delay. Any insight?
Id also love to hear from anyone who has mounted the panel out of sight rather than in plain view. How did you do it? I am considering having my installer add it inside the sunglasses holder
For those of you who have a switch-pros, I have heard the 12v trigger takes about a second to activate.
I was thinking of having the high beam trigger the light bar. I would be annoyed by a long delay. Any insight?
Id also love to hear from anyone who has mounted the panel out of sight rather than in plain view. How did you do it? I am considering having my installer add it inside the sunglasses holder
I just ordered the SP9100. I currently have it on my Tacoma. On it it also takes a second or maybe slightly less for high beam to trigger lights. It's not as bad as it sounds.
I installed the SP9100 into my 2022 110 P300 S using Saltek brackets and installation guide. It was mostly straight forward, I took my time and customized the wire harness so it matches the factory wiring under the hood. PM me with any questions.
Did you wire directly to SP9100 wiring or bus bar? How about for ground ?
I am doing my install now and trying to figure out where to wire using busbar for ground and another for switches to but not much space.
