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Have the sticky rear driver side door. The gasket at the top is too large so it catches the glass panel behind the door.
It's a really simple fix, just needs a new gasket.
If it's ignored, it can eventually break the rivets on the door frame where it's held on. The glass panel on the rear door can then come off. In other words, don't delay.
Is this gasket your talking about might also be called weatherstripping? Just trying to understand this issue.
anyone able to add the massage function parts like in a Range Rover?
‘My wife bought our 130, which I really like, especially on SW CO jeep trails. But for cross-country trips, which are frequent, it’s a debate on taking the 130 or my Ford F450 Kings Ranch which has massage seats with heat/AC. My old bones need special attention….🥴
Well, this is new. Multiple error messages popped up out of nowhere including:
-Emergency Braking not available
-Lane Assistance not available
-Stability Control not available
-Terrain Response not available
- and the check engine light
I disconnected the battery which cleared everything, but the next day they all came back.
Seems to run fine, but the brakes are mushy, and that red BRAKE light is concerning.
I’m out on a ski trip - the one time you really need all the fancy computer stuff. At least the center and rear auto-lockers are working fine.
Well, this is new. Multiple error messages popped up out of nowhere including:
-Emergency Braking not available
-Lane Assistance not available
-Stability Control not available
-Terrain Response not available
- and the check engine light
I disconnected the battery which cleared everything, but the next day they all came back.
Seems to run fine, but the brakes are mushy, and that red BRAKE light is concerning.
I’m out on a ski trip - the one time you really need all the fancy computer stuff. At least the center and rear auto-lockers are working fine.
just curious, since you have in your signature you’ve done the caliper swap and grind…how many miles have you gone since that conversion? Wondering if that’s got anything to do with it…
just curious, since you have in your signature you’ve done the caliper swap and grind…how many miles have you gone since that conversion? Wondering if that’s got anything to do with it…
The brakes were done right after I picked up the vehicle new, so ~18k miles.
I checked for leaks - all looks good and the reservoir is full.
I’ll have the dealer sort it out - assuming nothing bad happens in the next 5 days of ski trip.
The brakes were done right after I picked up the vehicle new, so ~18k miles.
I checked for leaks - all looks good and the reservoir is full.
I’ll have the dealer sort it out - assuming nothing bad happens in the next 5 days of ski trip.
Hoping not, but I would prepare for the dealer trying to link the error codes to the caliper swap and grind in an attempt to deny warranty service. Some dealers are worse than others though and maybe you have a good one.
Hoping not, but I would prepare for the dealer trying to link the error codes to the caliper swap and grind in an attempt to deny warranty service. Some dealers are worse than others though and maybe you have a good one.
Yea, I’m prepared for that. If they give me a hard time I’ll just take it back to the independent shop that did the original installation. They still may charge for it, but it will be much less than the dealer.
Here's my first real issue... received an "unable to select height warning" and a "height limited to normal mode". Have since been welcomed with a "suspension fault detected ok to drive" and the suspension buttons and terrain select disabled shortly after powering on.
I did hit a pretty nasty drop in pavement that was obstructed from view due to flooding the day before the warnings started.
Ran the codes and found C1A27-15 "Compressor Circuit - Circuit Short To Battery Or Open" fuses are good, the connection to the ride height sensors are good, as well as the looms around the fenders. Still need to check the relays, and the connection to the chassis control module wich i think is on the same side as the impact.
No popping or hissing or other audible clues from the compressor/ bags so thats a plus.
Front passenger sensor (area) maybe the root of this as that side took the brunt if the force.
is there a way to reset the system so my apple
carplay might connect again? i’ve never tried to hold
dowm the mute/power button for 20 seconds to reset PIVI. is that a thing? lol
