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is there a way to reset the system so my apple
carplay might connect again? i’ve never tried to hold
dowm the mute/power button for 20 seconds to reset PIVI. is that a thing? lol
Yup, just need to be in park. And hold down the power button until the screen turns off.
Last edited by Migs8416; Jan 11, 2024 at 02:40 AM.
I found this cable hanging loosely from the right-rear brake.
Reattached it- it just seems to be snap-fit and the cable is stretched very tight (precarious design), and I’m not sure I attached it correctly.
Anyone know what this cable is for? (Brake pad wear sensor?). It’s only on the right-rear.
In any case, it didn’t fix any of the brake warning lights (or any of the 14 functions that don’t work) so off to the dealer tomorrow.
After:
My passenger rear door is now locked shut. Won’t open from the inside or outside.
Just got it back two weeks ago from the intercooler coolant leak and DRL headlight being fixed.
Back to the dealer I go for a loaner at least.
Spoiler
Did you find a way to reset on your own? Had my passenger rear mechanism replaced 2 weeks ago. Tried the child locks again today and door won’t open again. So frustrating!
Did you find a way to reset on your own? Had my passenger rear mechanism replaced 2 weeks ago. Tried the child locks again today and door won’t open again. So frustrating!
Mine had to have a computer reset and it fixed it. Hasn’t done it since
This issue was fixed with software updates for “ABS”, “PSCM”, and “DADC NETWORK”. Considering how bad the braking was (twice complete brake failure with the pedal pushed to the floor), I thought this was a major mechanical failure. Glad it was just software.
It’s amazing how many systems are connected to the braking system. Of course there’s the stuff you’d expect like ABS, Traction Control, and Terrain Response. But then these also failed: Auto Start/Stop, Lane Keep Assist, all the camera views, and Cruise Control.
They also replaced the rear wiper arm and blade “per TOPIX: lot damage” (whatever that is).
For the second time in 3 weeks, the Defender is experiencing multiple system failures including:
- Cruise Control, Lane Keep Assist, Auto Start-Stop, parking sensors, emergency braking
- Stability Control, Traction Control, ABS (quite frightening in snow/ice)
- Terrain Response, Hill Descent, Progress Control
- 37 error codes pulled from the computer
The first time the dealer installed a bunch of software updates which temporarily fixed all the errors.
This time they’re tearing the car apart looking at sensors, connectors, and ECUs.
One week and counting- I hope they put everything back together correctly.
In the old days, in many cases, stability/traction/ABC light up the same time and, more often, you heard one of the ABS sensors at 4 corners was the culprit.
Nowadays, system is much more complicated and the complexity drives everyone a bit more to the crazy direction.
I just wonder if there is any body is able to simplify our cars to a state there is only a running engine with a manual transmission and no nonsense hydraulic 4 disc brake system.
Follow up to the failed braking system above.
The dealer opened a case file with Land Rover corporate and this is what the engineer said:
"there's a chance snow got caught between the pads and the rotors causing the pads not to move correctly or if the pads iced up in the arbors creating the "air/fluid leak " faults.
This brake system is super sensitive to caliper piston movement so if it see's one moving and not the other it thinks "leak"."
Um what? Is Land Rover saying that the brakes are so delicate that you shouldn't drive the vehicle in snow?? What about all those promotional videos showing Defenders driving in snow and mud and sand?
Absolutely ridiculous.
In-any-case, the dealer is replacing the brake-booster (under warranty) as a best-guess fix. Fingers crossed.
Here's my first real issue... received an "unable to select height warning" and a "height limited to normal mode". Have since been welcomed with a "suspension fault detected ok to drive" and the suspension buttons and terrain select disabled shortly after powering on.
I did hit a pretty nasty drop in pavement that was obstructed from view due to flooding the day before the warnings started.
Ran the codes and found C1A27-15 "Compressor Circuit - Circuit Short To Battery Or Open" fuses are good, the connection to the ride height sensors are good, as well as the looms around the fenders. Still need to check the relays, and the connection to the chassis control module wich i think is on the same side as the impact.
No popping or hissing or other audible clues from the compressor/ bags so thats a plus.
Front passenger sensor (area) maybe the root of this as that side took the brunt if the force.
update...
Ended up being the compressor gave up the ghost. Was able to order the AMK unit that JLR uses (along with BMW and Mercedes) relatively straight-forward plug and play system. No software refresh needed, just a replacement 60amp fuse.
