WARNING NON LAND ROVER POST

Well don’t get too carried away thinking this is a flawless solution. What generation Pcar do you have?

Depends on which one you have.

On my 991 (2012-2019) -- it requires a pretty specific sequence OTHERWISE the lighter socket turns off after a few mins and it will not charge. (charger must be first plugged into wall, then into vehicle, there must have been an ignition cycle (ie car on) within like 15 mins of plugging in the charger in the socket, then you must close and lock the car. THEN push the button on the charger to make it begin charging.

If you don’t do all this it doesn’t work with the sockets. And it turns off after a 30 min cycle or so.

PS I use the footwell power socket, not the lighter socket.

So for example, you cant just walk up the car which has been off for a few days, open the door, plug it in and expect it to work. It won’t. On mine.

 

Thanks for that additional bit of info. Mine is an ‘08 Boxster 987.1, so I will conduct a few tests to see if it stays powered up constantly. FWIW, when you say there has to have been an ignition cycle within 15 minutes of plugging in the charger, when I tested my socket with a multimeter, my car had been sitting overnight, unlocked in the garage, and upon opening the door and inserting the probes to check for voltage I read battery voltage without turning a key, or starting the vehicle prior. So, hopefully that indicates that I won’t need to use the same sequence as your 991. Cheers.

 

Any concerns with this regarding weather? I did this initially but was not sure if it got wet whether there would be an issue. Also slightly worried that I (or an unaware person) would drive off with it still connected. Unlikely with the hood open.

 

Today I added those CTEK quick connect eyelets.

To prevent me driving off with it attached, I have a system. Military jet flight style embroidered tag on a lacrosse lanyard that I had some lady on Etsy make that says “REMOVE CHARGER BEFORE DRIVING” (like one of those dorky "REMOVE BEFORE FLIGHT” hang tags). I loop it around the top of the steering wheel on itself so there’s no way I can not see it. Very hard to forget. It cost like $5 each and I had 6 of them made for each car a few years back.


+ connection (I already had the fuse in here from my winch install so it was easy for me...) You really don’t need a fuse for the batt charger, you could just put it on either bolt on the right of this pic in theory, but a fuse is probably a better idea.. now that I think about it.

- Connection (at the pole)

Snipped off the corner of the plastic junction box cover to clear the eyelet, it wouldn’t snap in with 2 connections on it stacked. I guess a cleaner way would be to fuse up the other one and put it there. Not a big deal.

Ready to charge and where I’ll store it. I don’t want it hanging out by the windshield wipers as this thing is parked outside all the time.

Charging. Confirmed I can lightly close the hood, route the cable generally speaking there, and lock the car. I leave the charger underhood because it’s not necessarily waterproof (is it) and it’s outside in this instance.

 

Weather shouldn’t be a concern, as many others have set up their trickle chargers in this fashion, leaving the connection end accessible just under the edge of the hood. And I’ve not heard of any issues doing it this way. The tight fitting cap should prevent any rain from causing any problems.

 

If you don't mind, can you share pics of where/how you routed connector so you can access without opening the hood?
I was worried about rain or possibly wire squeezing too hard under the hood. But as it does not seem to be an issue, I would love to charge without opening the hood.

 

This is my setup for my Boxster. Using a zip-tie attached to the end of the connector, if I push the connector down under the edge of the hood, by feel I can find the end of the zip-tie and extract the connector without opening the hood.

 

To complete my connection to my Defender, I was thinking of accessing the fuse panel in the cargo area, and back-feeding one of the unswitched, unused fuse terminals. This way I can open the cargo door, plug the trickle charger into the connection and and by using the CTEK comfort connect 8 ft extension cable, find a suitable spot under the weather stripping to run the cable and run it into my garage where I back my Defender up to when parking it for the night. Since one can use an accessory cigarette lighter socket adapter to connect the charger to the vehicle, I would imagine that this method would be suitable since any connection anywhere in the system which feeds back to the battery should work. Has anyone tried something similar to this? Or if anyone with a background in automotive electrical systems can weigh in on this, please let me know your thoughts. I attempted to contact CTEK directly but unfortunately they do not have a technical support line. Disappointing, as most items one purchases these days has a department where a consumer can reach out for advice or ask a question.

 

Man I love this forum. I came here to ask this same question as I too have had issues with the battery reporting low voltage despite being closed and in the garage for a few days. My dealer saw the warning about 20k miles back and replaced the battery, but now I’m out of warranty too.

I have had this car for a a few years now, is it just me or does it seem to have gotten worse within the last 6mo to a year? I remember leaving my truck on vacation for a week a while a back and didn’t have this issue.

 

I've got a 2010 997.2 that I'm able to charge with a CTEK Porsche-branded trickle charger that connects via the cigarette lighter. No sequence needed for the 997 like the 991, pretty easy. I'd love to use that on the 110. I was researching how/where to find constant power on our 110s, found this thread with what appears to be a pretty simple fix to bypass the relay tied to the 12V cigarette lighter port, thereby making it unswitched. Curious if anyone has done this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/20...-trunk-102214/