I presume you have the same Ford V8 that was in our LR4...no dipstick with the digital oil level display. Unscrew your oil filler cap and you will see a center tube where you connect the extractor. And you can probably use Mobil 1 EP or AP in that V8. (Walmart sells it in 5 gallon bottles) No need to buy the expensive Liqui Moly that meets the P400 oil spec.

 

The P400 engine (I think?) and the V8 on the LR4 both use electronic measuring technology. There is no dipstick. Instructions to check the oil are in the manual. The P300 uses a dipstick.

A good reason everyone needs a mity vac is to suck out the extra oil which is poured in by the dealers (and sometimes the owner). When I have to resort to dealer oil changes, I often find the techs overfill the engines.

 

My P400 certainly has a dipstick. And a Mityvac does not have enough oil capacity for a P400 oil change. You will need the OEM Tools #24938 extractor (on Amazon) with 9.5 liter capacity. If anyone wants the used Mityvac sitting in my basement for free send me a PM.

And I agree, I don't trust the dealer to do the oil change as carefully as I do it myself. Plus, who knows what oil they use despite their claims to use the magical Castrol oil.

 

You said the magic words, “as carefully as I do it myself”. Bingo. That is why I prefer to do as much of the work on my vehicles, as well as my home, myself. The quality of workmanship these days leaves a lot to be desired. A friend had an oil change done, and while driving the next day noticed some light smoke emitting from under the hood. Seems they left the oil filler cap off and it was spraying all over the engine compartment. If you think about it, who do you suppose is doing oil changes at the dealership? Certainly not an experienced tech with many years working on Land Rovers. Those techs are doing the more high end, technical jobs. The ones doing oil changes would most likely be the least experienced, latest hired. Just like carpenters say, ‘measure twice, cut once’, when I put something back together I check and recheck every nut and bolt for tightness, put everything back just the way I found it, and clean all surfaces. Won’t get that in most shops.

 

A little off topic, but does anyone else with a P300 find it impossible to read the dipstick? No matter how many times you wipe it off and insert it, all you see is the entire dipstick covered with oil; and it doesn’t matter if the engine is stone cold or not. I bought an extractor to change oil via the dipstick, but would like to be able to see the exact level when I refill.

 

Yep, I knew that but wondered why the OP was being directed to a dipstick. So just tongue-in-cheek on my post.

 

Right with you. I can't imagine a dealership tech taking the time to clean the threads on the plastic oil filter housing then coat the new oil filter gasket with fresh oil before screwing it on and tightening it to 25 nm with a torque wrench.

 

Norsk:

Yes, I too find reading the P300 dipstick with brand-new, clean oil to be extremely difficult. Never had such a thing happen previously

For some reason, I find that the level is slightly easier to identify on the back (unmarked) side, and then I turn it over to determine the level. Also, I have to move into the sun very quickly, before all the oil runs off, and look for the difference in reflection. It normally takes three attempts to arrive at the point of comfortable understanding.

 

I believe the OP is referring to a Defender V8 which will have the AJ133 engine that is not the same as the AJ-V8 from the old LR4. I would absolutely use only factory spec oil in this engine. Liquid Moly bought online from some retailers is nearly as cheap as buying say "Royal Purple" at WallyMart. For the few extra bucks it is peace of mind..

 

I completely agree that the OP should use factory spec oil to comply with the warranty. My point was that there are probably a variety of oil options that meet the AJ133 oil spec. Those of us with the P400 have 2 oil options that I know of.