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Old Apr 14, 2024 | 03:25 PM
  #41  
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I think it’s better than not having them like mine. But I am going to have a full skid plate system installed for it so I throw them away.
 
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Old Apr 14, 2024 | 04:13 PM
  #42  
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Yeah. No sense going to all the trouble of the felt trim and install if you’re putting under armor on.

one other thing to look at is to check the torque on the slider bolts after some miles are done.

A few needed to be retorqued to spec. This would apply to any slider I suppose.
 
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Old Apr 15, 2024 | 06:23 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by DefenderSISU
I think it’s better than not having them like mine. But I am going to have a full skid plate system installed for it so I throw them away.
Which full skid plate are you going with? I have the TuffAnt sliders; they are showing prototypes of their belly plate so it should come out soon.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 11:33 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by GavinC
This is a fiddly and dirty process but I think it’s worth it to get the felt back on

looks neater than without felt

reuse the three metal brackets (two rear ones get cut to allow reuse) to support the underfelt
Front view

Rear view

Driver side looking forward

Passenger side

Rear metal brackets. Removed during slider install. Cut and repositioned. They support the felt at the rear.

Drivers side

Rear metal bracket of cuts. This allows the bracket to be reused.

Passenger side view.


Mud flapettes on the cut metal brackets.

Cut metal bracket. Reuse to support felt.
That looks great! One of the hangups for my has always been losing the felt sheets.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 01:29 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by paule
That looks great! One of the hangups for my has always been losing the felt sheets.
Initially I was thinking I'd keep them off and perhaps one day reinstall if I removed the sliders to sell.

After doing this install there's no way in hell I'd want to undo it so tailoring the felt to fit was obvious, particularly after cutting and reusing the rocker trim. Also I couldn't bear not to reinstall and take on the challenge.

I took my time on it. Reusing the metal support brackets really makes things very solid. It's not in any instructional but definitely the way to go.

While not armor, it is going to prevent snagging a wire or something on a stick that might get hung up. Too many tender juicy bits under there to leave uncovered.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2024 | 01:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Mike_F
Which full skid plate are you going with? I have the TuffAnt sliders; they are showing prototypes of their belly plate so it should come out soon.
Do you know how soon is? As in I'm in the same boat, TuffAnt sliders and wanting the full skid plate. Reached out to Jake a few months ago, but haven't heard any updates. Thanks!
 
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Old May 10, 2024 | 11:05 PM
  #47  
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A few cuts and scrapes on the new sliders. Nice to have them paying their way.

The sure make navigating rocky tracks far more relaxing.

Really happy with the Voyagers.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 03:54 PM
  #48  
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I ended up doing the same thing as Gavin with the Lucky8 Proud Rhino sliders. The gap in tire well by the back door and the outer door seal not feeling as tight on the included metal trim piece is what pushed me over the edge. It was a bit fiddly as i didn't want to cut the trim in two so had to drop the sliders and at least for the lucky 8 you can't just cut to the included trim piece as there is a bit of a flare that happens to the sill as it moves forward that the metal doesn't do. I ended up with a 4.5" height in the back (basically no cut) and in front it I was at 4.75" (though you could probably do 5". Taped and marked with straight edge and cut using a wood scroll blade on a jigsaw. That gave me a really smooth cut that i only made slightly worse with a deburring tool. Two clips short for the front left vanity piece but like the OEM look. Will let people know how it holds up!







 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 04:01 PM
  #49  
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I'm always in awe and admiration when someone finally results to drilling thru, grinding off, or cutting apart bits and pieces of their Defender!! Well done.
 
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Old Sep 15, 2025 | 04:05 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by maolson
I ended up doing the same thing as Gavin with the Lucky8 Proud Rhino sliders. The gap in tire well by the back door and the outer door seal not feeling as tight on the included metal trim piece is what pushed me over the edge. It was a bit fiddly as i didn't want to cut the trim in two so had to drop the sliders and at least for the lucky 8 you can't just cut to the included trim piece as there is a bit of a flare that happens to the sill as it moves forward that the metal doesn't do. I ended up with a 4.5" height in the back (basically no cut) and in front it I was at 4.75" (though you could probably do 5". Taped and marked with straight edge and cut using a wood scroll blade on a jigsaw. That gave me a really smooth cut that i only made slightly worse with a deburring tool. Two clips short for the front left vanity piece but like the OEM look. Will let people know how it holds up!



That's a beautifully neat result.

I really think this is the way to go on these. Looks so much better and means less nooks for mud and other stuff to accumulate. It also looks more factory. The trim cuts so easily (I used a box-cutter) that there is no major difficulty to it.

Added bonus, there is also no need to lose your will to live in trying and failing to make a riv-nut tool do your bidding.
 

Last edited by GavinC; Sep 15, 2025 at 08:32 PM.
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