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This is a fiddly and dirty process but I think it’s worth it to get the felt back on
looks neater than without felt
reuse the three metal brackets (two rear ones get cut to allow reuse) to support the underfelt
Front view Rear view Driver side looking forward Passenger side Rear metal brackets. Removed during slider install. Cut and repositioned. They support the felt at the rear. Drivers side Rear metal bracket of cuts. This allows the bracket to be reused. Passenger side view. Mud flapettes on the cut metal brackets. Cut metal bracket. Reuse to support felt.
That looks great! One of the hangups for my has always been losing the felt sheets.
That looks great! One of the hangups for my has always been losing the felt sheets.
Initially I was thinking I'd keep them off and perhaps one day reinstall if I removed the sliders to sell.
After doing this install there's no way in hell I'd want to undo it so tailoring the felt to fit was obvious, particularly after cutting and reusing the rocker trim. Also I couldn't bear not to reinstall and take on the challenge.
I took my time on it. Reusing the metal support brackets really makes things very solid. It's not in any instructional but definitely the way to go.
While not armor, it is going to prevent snagging a wire or something on a stick that might get hung up. Too many tender juicy bits under there to leave uncovered.
Which full skid plate are you going with? I have the TuffAnt sliders; they are showing prototypes of their belly plate so it should come out soon.
Do you know how soon is? As in I'm in the same boat, TuffAnt sliders and wanting the full skid plate. Reached out to Jake a few months ago, but haven't heard any updates. Thanks!
I ended up doing the same thing as Gavin with the Lucky8 Proud Rhino sliders. The gap in tire well by the back door and the outer door seal not feeling as tight on the included metal trim piece is what pushed me over the edge. It was a bit fiddly as i didn't want to cut the trim in two so had to drop the sliders and at least for the lucky 8 you can't just cut to the included trim piece as there is a bit of a flare that happens to the sill as it moves forward that the metal doesn't do. I ended up with a 4.5" height in the back (basically no cut) and in front it I was at 4.75" (though you could probably do 5". Taped and marked with straight edge and cut using a wood scroll blade on a jigsaw. That gave me a really smooth cut that i only made slightly worse with a deburring tool. Two clips short for the front left vanity piece but like the OEM look. Will let people know how it holds up!
I'm always in awe and admiration when someone finally results to drilling thru, grinding off, or cutting apart bits and pieces of their Defender!! Well done.
I ended up doing the same thing as Gavin with the Lucky8 Proud Rhino sliders. The gap in tire well by the back door and the outer door seal not feeling as tight on the included metal trim piece is what pushed me over the edge. It was a bit fiddly as i didn't want to cut the trim in two so had to drop the sliders and at least for the lucky 8 you can't just cut to the included trim piece as there is a bit of a flare that happens to the sill as it moves forward that the metal doesn't do. I ended up with a 4.5" height in the back (basically no cut) and in front it I was at 4.75" (though you could probably do 5". Taped and marked with straight edge and cut using a wood scroll blade on a jigsaw. That gave me a really smooth cut that i only made slightly worse with a deburring tool. Two clips short for the front left vanity piece but like the OEM look. Will let people know how it holds up!
That's a beautifully neat result.
I really think this is the way to go on these. Looks so much better and means less nooks for mud and other stuff to accumulate. It also looks more factory. The trim cuts so easily (I used a box-cutter) that there is no major difficulty to it.
Added bonus, there is also no need to lose your will to live in trying and failing to make a riv-nut tool do your bidding.