sure I'll let my wife know when I die to message you lol

 

We can have the same deal on my red 109 County

 

lol...

 

1 step forwards two steps back today.
While messing with the rear windows to try to get them to work, the passenger rear regulator failed. Joy...
The problem in the window lift ECU appears to be a bad relay.

Halfway into changing the fan clutch, it became apparent that I have the wrong part (right box, wrong part inside). I also found a new coolant leak on the passenger side of the radiator up by a rubber screw.

New radiator on order, new fan clutch gets here tomorrow. Now I'm doing the fan clutch, new radiator, thermostat and all new hoses on the cooling system. Might do the water pump at the same time.

Oil cooler lines are wet, the upper line gets here tomorrow, and I already have the lower line.

Thinking about a Tuffy box instead of trying to replace the console on the classic. If it works and looks good, I'll post a "howto".

Finally, I keep buffing body panels as time permits. I managed to get out quite a few scratches today which was a nice feeling after a day of going backwards. One last tip, using diet coke and aluminum foil to clean rust off of chrome bumpers really works!

Replacement TCase is here but I haven't had the time or money to buy a D1 driveshaft yet. That feels like an October project now. Still trying to decide what to do about the exhaust. AB doesn't sell a kit for the LWB. For the magnaflow and the cats, it's already a thousand dollars!

 

Robert I found local exhaust shops to be real savior when it comes to building an exhaust at a reasonable price. I don't mean Midas or something like that I'm talking the local mom-and-pop shop.

 

+1 on the local exhaust shops. I had one of those do some welding on the exhaust on my D2. Whats on the truck now works, but it's very loud.

I did the fuel filter on the RRC last night, it was severely clogged.
Trying to decide on tires too. I'd like to go with "tall & skinny" but haven't been successful in finding a tire I wanted to buy (yet).
I think that part of the problem is that the primary purpose over the next year will be ferrying my family around with a younger driver at the wheel. After that, I think this will become my daily driver.

 

Progress is slowing down.
I did manage to fix the heater today, the switch was bad as was the resistor. Sourced new parts from Atlantic British.

Working on the Electric Seats, there must be a line break between the Fuse and the Seat ECU. If i jump power to the Seat ECU it works but would create a parasitic drain on the battery. Looks like I'm going to have to run a new power line under the carpet from the Fuse box and the original location so that in the future I don't forget how the hell I got power to the Seat ECU.

Started work on replacing the rear right passenger window regulator to find out that the regulator was good. The shelf that the glass window rests on had rusted through and snapped. Meanwhile the rear windows are still intermittent. I think that over the years some of the wiring must have become brittle and either snapped inside the insulation or come loose, just not visibly so, as all the fuses are good, and the connections look good.

1 step forwards, two steps back, the truck is fully pulled apart now.


I did receive a new passenger side D Pillar courtesy of Paul Grant, and I bought Headliner material off Ebay. Somewhat foolishly, i'm planning on doing the headliner myself. I anticipate it will be messy.

I also started on repairing the cubby console. A trip to the Home Depot deck hardware aisle netted some aluminum brackets i'll use for bracing to support the brittle plastic. I was going to replace it with a Tuffy Console, but I have to have the RRC back together by October 16th and i'm running out of time.



After driving the car last, I saw that the radiator was beginning to leak from a fitting on the passenger side, at the top of the rad. bit the bullet and bought a new rad from performance radiator in Seattle, new hose kit, new oil lines and transmission pipe. If anyone has the inside track on where to have the no longer available 1243 and 2353(?) transmission lines rebuilt in Seattle, i'd be much obliged.

 

RRC headliners are pretty straight forward to do and not bad. That dried out foam crab on the board is easy to handle cleanly. Once it's out pull the cloth off and toss it. Than put the brush attachment on your shop vac and use it to remove the foam. Clean quick and easy.

 

For folks that have done a Headliner before, how clean does the Fibreglass need to be for a clean recovering?

 

"how clean does the Fibreglass need to be for a clean recovering?"


Very clean. The old glue/foam will cause an issue with the new adhesive. Use a nylon carpet brush(any auto parts store/walmart) and brush that crap off. I found brushing in straight lines worked the best. Just a warning don't use a wire brush it will make a huge mess of the backing board.


Brushes like this work well... Nylon Carpet & Upholstery Brush - Griot's Garage


Dish Scrub Brush, Plastic (YB33273L ) at Aubuchon Hardware