2004 D2 Overland Build
#51
#52
Front bumper and winch installed. Not too bad but now need to figure out what I want to do with the washer bottle. Picked up a 12k Badlands winch at Habor Freight. I had to modify the bumper to fit it. Cut off about 1/4” of the over hand on each side of the winch well and drilled holes to elongate the holes for the screws. The winch is a little wider than a comparable Warn.
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SadaJones (08-12-2021)
#55
#56
#57
Recently had gas pouring out from the top of the tank when trying to fill up which is always fun with the hot exhaust pipe inches away. My gas tank strap was also completely rusted through so I decided dropping the whole tank was in order. It was not the difficult of a job and I took the opportunity to paint the frame while everything was apart.
Tank out and the locking ring is a rusty mess. It basically crumbled as I removed it. The white ring that the metal locking ring attached to also broke in several places.
Cleaned up the tank inside and out. The inside was very clean already with no sediment. Installed new ring which was very tight but using a screw driver and rubber mallet made it fairly easy.
Installed new rubber gasket and Bosch fuel pump. Truck here is to run the gasket up the pump body up to the springs. Insert the pump and then lube up the gasket with gasoline and push the pump in carefully without disturbing the gasket. Then install the metal locking ring.
The tank cradle was also rusted out pretty badly on the side against the tank. I ordered a new TF tank skid plate to replace it.
Found the cause for the tank leak, the rim of the old
pump was badly cracked. I assume this was also the cause of the large evap leak code I would get a couple times a month.
Tank out and the locking ring is a rusty mess. It basically crumbled as I removed it. The white ring that the metal locking ring attached to also broke in several places.
Cleaned up the tank inside and out. The inside was very clean already with no sediment. Installed new ring which was very tight but using a screw driver and rubber mallet made it fairly easy.
Installed new rubber gasket and Bosch fuel pump. Truck here is to run the gasket up the pump body up to the springs. Insert the pump and then lube up the gasket with gasoline and push the pump in carefully without disturbing the gasket. Then install the metal locking ring.
The tank cradle was also rusted out pretty badly on the side against the tank. I ordered a new TF tank skid plate to replace it.
Found the cause for the tank leak, the rim of the old
pump was badly cracked. I assume this was also the cause of the large evap leak code I would get a couple times a month.
The following 2 users liked this post by zski128:
longtallsally (11-07-2022),
SadaJones (12-26-2022)
#58
Truck has been running fine for a while except for a nagging slow coolant leak. I did fine a couple of spots seeping coolant which I had fixed overtime but never completed solved the coolant loss. No steam cleaning of cylinders or milkshake oil or gunk under the cap. Just because, I ordered a Balckstone labs oil test kit for an oil change. Results showed coolant in the oil along with bearing material…great.
Since I had the usual leaking oil pan and a small leak from the front main seal along with now possible wiped out bearings I dropped the oil pan and pressure tested the system. I found a small coolant leak coming down from inside the front cover.
I replaced all the rod bearings, timing chain and gears, front main seal, oil pump gears and a glow shift oil pressure gauge. The front cover was slightly scratched up but the pump gears where not broken. The backing plate for the pump was really gouged but I had a spare in hand. Also noted that a bolt was missing from the oil pump housing when I took everything apart.
All the crank journals looked fine except one which I polished in place with some WD40 and 800-2000 grit paper and a piece of cloth. Everything is back together and running great with in spec oil pressure.
Since I had the usual leaking oil pan and a small leak from the front main seal along with now possible wiped out bearings I dropped the oil pan and pressure tested the system. I found a small coolant leak coming down from inside the front cover.
I replaced all the rod bearings, timing chain and gears, front main seal, oil pump gears and a glow shift oil pressure gauge. The front cover was slightly scratched up but the pump gears where not broken. The backing plate for the pump was really gouged but I had a spare in hand. Also noted that a bolt was missing from the oil pump housing when I took everything apart.
All the crank journals looked fine except one which I polished in place with some WD40 and 800-2000 grit paper and a piece of cloth. Everything is back together and running great with in spec oil pressure.
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