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The truck had a very random intermittent issue where it either would stall when you come to a stop or wouldn't rev past 1800 rpm or so. No codes, no light on the dash, and no rhyme or reason as to when it would act up. There's only a few sensors that can do this and after successfully testing the few I could, and replacing the plugs wires and fuel filter, I ordered a cam and crank sensor. Cam sensor went in without issue, but when I went to replace the crank sensor I found the wires bare and clearly had been shorting out. As I'm typing this I realize I never actually replaced the crank sensor after fixing the wires lol.
This one's just for fun. I was jacking the drivers front wheel up, can't remember why, but the tism kicked in and I kept going to see how far it'd flex. Maxed out my low pro high lift jack (I wanna say it's 28” lift) and never got the rear wheel off the ground! It always amazes me how capable these trucks are right out the factory.
I've mentioned the loose steering on this truck... I think. If not, well, the steering was loose lol. I crawled under after driving it to look at the bushings in the radius arms because I knew they weren't great the first time we owned it. Found a bent track rod. This is a know weak spot on these trucks so a Terrafirma track rod and drag link assembly with steering stabilizer was ordered. Not the cause of the loose steering but if I'm replacing bad parts that are known to fail I'm gonna put the best replacement I can afford back on.
Ordered a ladder for the rear since we'd like to put a roof rack on at some point and makes accessing the factory rack a little easier. Didn't want to drill more holes in the rear door so I used double sided tape on top and tig welded some stainless studs to a ss plate. I attached the ladder to the studs and bolted the bottom of the plate to the license plate mounts. The license plate mounts are stronger than the tiny little riv-nuts the ladder came with anyway so it's a win win in my book. I used self adhesive foam on the back of the plate I made to keep it from destroying the fresh paint on the back door.
After the ladder I set about upgrading the factory speakers. Another member made a lengthy post about what he did and where he got the parts. I copied a lot of it. Went with a set of 4 4" Kicker speakers in the front doors and rear pillars. I got them from Crutchfield. Awesome website. You can enter you vehicle and it'll tell you everything they have that will fit. They also have pictures of the actual vehicle and how it all comes apart. I left the factory tweeters, and had already put a couple old Bazookas in the back door. They sound amazing. Not hard to improve on 28 year old blown factory paper speakers though.
The only thing I'll say about the installation is the original front speakers are supposed to have a trim ring behind them and mine were missing. The Kickers are deeper so they hit the door and pushed the door card out just a little. If I had the trim rings it'd be fine. I'm gonna have to figure out a solution to that but the rest of it was pretty straight forward.
Adding to the suspension overhaul, I picked up a Terrafirma HD panhard bar, sway bar bushings, and all new radius arm bushings. The sway bar bushings and panhard bar are done, the radius arms will have to wait for a free weekend which I haven't had in awhile. I'll update when I get to that.
1. replace sub-woofer drivers with these https://a.co/d/5MrGkRe
and find a reasonable priced 250w mono amp to replace the pathetic little amp that sits behind the original subs. My amp sits in the door pocket. I used existing audio and power/ground/remote lines. This upgrade will have a HUGE impact.
2. if your CD player powers up, (you need the digital 'heartbeat' for the head unit to recognize it) you can steal the audio input to the head unit and insert a bluetooth receiver. https://a.co/d/bzz4yLT Wah-lah, Bluetooth sound.
you will probably need a ground loop isolator https://a.co/d/bexDgZ4 The Bluetooth receiver and ground loop isolator will fit behind the window switchpack.
Here was my first iteration that used a switch box. I don't even bother with CD player anymore. I just tap the audio line and go straight from the head unit to the bluetooth receiver. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...17/#post343406
1. replace sub-woofer drivers with these https://a.co/d/5MrGkRe
and find a reasonable priced 250w mono amp to replace the pathetic little amp that sits behind the original subs. My amp sits in the door pocket. I used existing audio and power/ground/remote lines. This upgrade will have a HUGE impact.
2. if your CD player powers up, (you need the digital 'heartbeat' for the head unit to recognize it) you can steal the audio input to the head unit and insert a bluetooth receiver. https://a.co/d/bzz4yLT Wah-lah, Bluetooth sound.
you will probably need a ground loop isolator https://a.co/d/bexDgZ4 The Bluetooth receiver and ground loop isolator will fit behind the window switchpack.
Here was my first iteration that used a switch box. I don't even bother with CD player anymore. I just tap the audio line and go straight from the head unit to the bluetooth receiver. https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...17/#post343406
Hey thanks for taking the time to write all that!
The original radio/cassette player worked with the truck for quite some time but last time the battery died the radio locked and will no longer accept the code we've used the last 12+ years. A temporary solution was an old Panasonic I had sitting around but there was a slight noise from (the alternator?). I'm not into car audio a whole lot so I'm not real sure. An extra ground from the radio to the chassis all but cleared it up.
I should note that because I kept all the factory wiring and amps I used the low level rca outputs off the radio for the speakers. I simply capped off the gray/white/purple/green wires.
I have since put a cheap Bluetooth/car play touchscreen unit in so she can just play music from her phone, use the hands free calling and gps functions etc.
The new unit makes more noise than the old one lol.
The Amazon link you attached has both a ground loop isolator and a noise filter. The noise that comes through the speakers is only there with the engine running and changes with rpm. With that info do you know if I need the isolator or the filter?
I should also mention the bazooka speakers were installed last time we owned the truck because again, the factory units blew and I had them laying around. I do plan to replace them but haven't gotten that far yet. One thing at a time kind of scenario lol. When I mentioned "they sound great" in the above post I was referring to the Kickers not the tiny subs lol. Upon re-reading it I see how it may be a little confusing.
The most recent upgrade was installing a android auto/Apple car play head unit. The factory am/fm/cassette player locked the last time the battery died and wouldn't accept the code we've been using the last 12+ years to unlock it. I popped an old Panasonic I had laying around in there for a trip to the OBX then ordered the new touch screen. Install was very easy since the truck was already set up for the Panasonic and it fit almost like it was made for the truck. We're new to the whole phone link car play thing and didn't know if we'd like it so I got a cheap unit off eBay to try out. So far we love it. If it dies I'm only out $37 and I can get a better one at that point. Both the Panasonic and the new touch screen have an awful buzz that change with rpm so I ordered a ground loop isolator on the advice of WaltNYC. I'll let you all know if that fixes the noise issue.
