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The shop has been working on getting the engine installed and are on track to get the disco started today. I’m having them install a gbr front drive shaft and new superpro bushings on the radius arms as the bushings that came with the RTE kit are shot. I received an ETA of this Friday. Crossing my fingers
how many miles on the bushings? Any pics as to what they looked like?
Swapped linear 3in HD springs and 1inch spacer blocks for RTE 4.5 in progressive springs. The disco is sitting about an inch or so higher now which should settle a little bit I imagine. More importantly the ride quality is much better with the progressive springs. The ride is more compliant as it isn’t as “crashy” over potholes and surface transitions such as on overpasses.
I also swapped out the Akebono pads for Portorfield R4-S pads. I use these pads on my Porsches and love them. Hopefully the pads help with some brake fade I’ve experienced with the Akebonos on the trails.
Project $$$ pit has given me some serious headaches as of late. Disco was at the shop for 2 months getting the trans line replaced as well as some fabrication work done including welding the sliders to the frame, adding nerf bars to the rear bumper, and reinforcing the rear tire carrier.
given the shop is 3 hours away, a friend local to the shop picked up the disco for me recently. About 20 miles from the shop of course the disco started to run like crap and a code for misfire in cylinder 2 popped up.
the disco went back to the shop and they confirmed the ignition and fuel injectors were working properly. I ended up having the truck shipped down to my local shop that is three hours away and they confirmed the issue is mechanical.
the exhaust valve on cylinder 2 is stuck partially open. The situation is extremely frustrating as this is the second AB engine that was installed in the past 2 years due to the first having a hairline crack in the block.
My shop is in communication with AB about warranting the parts. I hope they come through as I am beyond disappointed with the quality of the AB engine and it would be unfortunate to have to pay to repair an engine with a few thousand miles on it.
I absolutely love the disco but the reliability of the disco is starting to really become a pain despite having changed out the entire power train except for the trans/t-case. It’s left me stranded on two occasions with family with me this past year alone. I’m starting to think it may be time to move on from the disco and buy an 80 series
Do the Vortec swap with the ace kit and don't look back. Way more power. Doesn't leak oil all over the place. Parts dime a dozen.
Loving the stance with the new springs btw.
Swapped linear 3in HD springs and 1inch spacer blocks for RTE 4.5 in progressive springs. The disco is sitting about an inch or so higher now which should settle a little bit I imagine. More importantly the ride quality is much better with the progressive springs. The ride is more compliant as it isn’t as “crashy” over potholes and surface transitions such as on overpasses.
I also swapped out the Akebono pads for Portorfield R4-S pads. I use these pads on my Porsches and love them. Hopefully the pads help with some brake fade I’ve experienced with the Akebonos on the trails.
So….the new AB engine is leaking oil. Shortly after I got the car, I noticed the oil pan had oil on it. I figured AB did not seal the pan correctly as my last two engines had that issue. I degreased the bottom of the engine and noticed oil was coming down from above the pan.
Long story short, I traced the leak to the oil bypass valve next to the crank pulley. At idle, it does not leak oil. But as soon I give it some rpm it starts to slowly seep oil.
from my understanding, the whole front cover needs to be replaced to access the o ring on the cap in the oil relief valve. But if anyone has been able to remove the cap to install a new o ring while the cover is still attached to the truck I’d love to hear your experience. In all the posts I’ve read, the front cover was removed to replace the o rings. I can get my c clip tool in the area to remove the c clip but I am unsure on how to remove the cap itself.
