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my 98 disco1

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  #101  
Old 06-09-2013, 11:57 PM
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If its a 4.6 gems you should def go get it
 
  #102  
Old 06-10-2013, 07:33 AM
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looks same as mine but I did not notice the size since someone had removed the plenum
 
  #103  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:00 AM
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If its a 97-99 p38 then it may have a 4.6. It will say on the tailgate
 
  #104  
Old 06-11-2013, 05:47 AM
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Originally Posted by TOM R
how did you install a drain tube?
I used a PVC pipe along with a 90 deg elbow and a hose. I glued the PVC to the body of the truck with POR15 Patch and ran the hose all the way down below the sliders. Now the water just drains right to the bottom of the truck instead of rusting away the footwells.
 
  #105  
Old 06-11-2013, 06:46 AM
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Correct me if I am wrong but you will need the flywheel from the P38, right? The crank sensor and housing is different on the P38 than the DI. I'm doing the same conversion right now: 4.6 from a P38 into a 99 DI but I am using the flywheel and CPS from the 99 4.0 GEMS. I had the CPS housing welded onto the 4.6 block.
 
  #106  
Old 06-11-2013, 07:36 AM
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Yep. You are correct. I was simply saying that a gems 4.6 at pull a part prices would be a good find.
 
  #107  
Old 06-11-2013, 08:52 AM
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engine would cost me about $200, I will be back there in va 2 weeks so gonna think on it while in n.j. working on the rover

if I pull the fenders again I will probly add your drain modd great idea
 
  #108  
Old 06-11-2013, 10:31 AM
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I think im about to pull my fenders. I am sick and tired of wet carpet and sun roof leaks!
 
  #109  
Old 06-11-2013, 02:08 PM
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my carpets are still getting wet
 

Last edited by TOM R; 06-11-2013 at 08:52 PM.
  #110  
Old 06-11-2013, 09:14 PM
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great news she is alive again !!!!

a buddie came over that used to do exhaust and we got the manifolds on, cut out the cats and welded tubing in place and bolted it all up we made some blank tubes and welded them over the downstream o2 holes and screwed the sensors in so they will never touch exhaust fumes again

still got a 1447 or 1441 code don't recall which but I cleared it and did not come back yet

when we fired her up oil light was out in seconds no knocking ran rough for a few seconds then all good, she warmed up fast and burped with no problem,

also finalized the snorkel setup, ended up cutting off some of the maf boot , bent the oil dip tube, used rtv to glue the Z tube to the snorkel and used some rtv with a piece of the supplied boot and 1 supplied clamp to attach to the air box I do not like this ends setup and may need to revise it later

it is a lot louder without the cats not sure I like that and it has a weird sound my buddie and brother both like it but everyone is entitled to their opinion I may be re adding the rear resonator since I have an exhaust leak there

I let her run for like 45 minutes or more with no probs but only drove about a mile home so need to drive more tomorrow and recheck everything

now idles from like 179 to 185 no idea with a/c on since it leaked out again but I used dye last charge and found the shrader by the evap can is leaking( was pressure relief when I unscrewed the cap and dye found with uv light) think that's low side? so we will vac and fix this weekend hopefully

I am just glad that this job is finished cause that was a bit of a pain and rather time consuming to do it right
 


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