my 98 disco1
#104
I used a PVC pipe along with a 90 deg elbow and a hose. I glued the PVC to the body of the truck with POR15 Patch and ran the hose all the way down below the sliders. Now the water just drains right to the bottom of the truck instead of rusting away the footwells.
#105
Correct me if I am wrong but you will need the flywheel from the P38, right? The crank sensor and housing is different on the P38 than the DI. I'm doing the same conversion right now: 4.6 from a P38 into a 99 DI but I am using the flywheel and CPS from the 99 4.0 GEMS. I had the CPS housing welded onto the 4.6 block.
#110
great news she is alive again !!!!
a buddie came over that used to do exhaust and we got the manifolds on, cut out the cats and welded tubing in place and bolted it all up we made some blank tubes and welded them over the downstream o2 holes and screwed the sensors in so they will never touch exhaust fumes again
still got a 1447 or 1441 code don't recall which but I cleared it and did not come back yet
when we fired her up oil light was out in seconds no knocking ran rough for a few seconds then all good, she warmed up fast and burped with no problem,
also finalized the snorkel setup, ended up cutting off some of the maf boot , bent the oil dip tube, used rtv to glue the Z tube to the snorkel and used some rtv with a piece of the supplied boot and 1 supplied clamp to attach to the air box I do not like this ends setup and may need to revise it later
it is a lot louder without the cats not sure I like that and it has a weird sound my buddie and brother both like it but everyone is entitled to their opinion I may be re adding the rear resonator since I have an exhaust leak there
I let her run for like 45 minutes or more with no probs but only drove about a mile home so need to drive more tomorrow and recheck everything
now idles from like 179 to 185 no idea with a/c on since it leaked out again but I used dye last charge and found the shrader by the evap can is leaking( was pressure relief when I unscrewed the cap and dye found with uv light) think that's low side? so we will vac and fix this weekend hopefully
I am just glad that this job is finished cause that was a bit of a pain and rather time consuming to do it right
a buddie came over that used to do exhaust and we got the manifolds on, cut out the cats and welded tubing in place and bolted it all up we made some blank tubes and welded them over the downstream o2 holes and screwed the sensors in so they will never touch exhaust fumes again
still got a 1447 or 1441 code don't recall which but I cleared it and did not come back yet
when we fired her up oil light was out in seconds no knocking ran rough for a few seconds then all good, she warmed up fast and burped with no problem,
also finalized the snorkel setup, ended up cutting off some of the maf boot , bent the oil dip tube, used rtv to glue the Z tube to the snorkel and used some rtv with a piece of the supplied boot and 1 supplied clamp to attach to the air box I do not like this ends setup and may need to revise it later
it is a lot louder without the cats not sure I like that and it has a weird sound my buddie and brother both like it but everyone is entitled to their opinion I may be re adding the rear resonator since I have an exhaust leak there
I let her run for like 45 minutes or more with no probs but only drove about a mile home so need to drive more tomorrow and recheck everything
now idles from like 179 to 185 no idea with a/c on since it leaked out again but I used dye last charge and found the shrader by the evap can is leaking( was pressure relief when I unscrewed the cap and dye found with uv light) think that's low side? so we will vac and fix this weekend hopefully
I am just glad that this job is finished cause that was a bit of a pain and rather time consuming to do it right