I really like that green with the Kalahari wheels.

 

When I get it done unless I’m offered something like 8k it’s not going anywhere. Near impossible these days to find a super clean inside/out 04 D2 that is solid. I knew about the oil light when I bought it, but it was so clean I didn’t care. All the D2’s in my neck of the woods are pure over priced crap!

The replacement engine does indeed look like a P38 4.6L, so thats a huge plus. I’m going to clean it up, and go from there. Of coarse the mrs would rather have me sell it with the replacement engine in the back and just be one LR short, but I don’t see that happening!

I slapped a set of Callaway/D2 ACE equipped proline wheels on it as it’s one of my favorite LR wheels. I’ll eventually get some BFG KO2’s for it.

 

Haven’t had a lot of time lately with work. However today after work I removed all the spark plugs & checked the cylinders. Not a one is steam cleaned and all 8 spark plugs looked exactly the same. I really think I could just drop this engine in & be done with it, but I’m going to do the HG job for peace of mind. Still debating on ARP studs or sticking with TTY Bolts. They each have their up’s & down’s.

 

What would the "downs" of APR be?

 

I've heard stories of people doing them wrong and stripping out the threads on the block. TTY just sounds easier to me. Torque to 15LB, then 90, and another 90 and call it done.

From what I've read you have to make absolutely sure the ARP studs are inserted fully into the block or you'll have issues with getting the proper torque specs. Not sure as I've never messed with ARP studs before. I just want the job done the best it can be done so I get the most out of this 4.6L without having to tear into it again.

 

Well I had put off doing any major work on the 04 as I'd found a lovely 04 near Dallas, but the dumb dealership screwed me out of it and letting me enjoy a 10hr car ride for nothing (sold it out from under me).

So now I've gone ahead and ordered all the parts to rebuild the 4.6L I have sitting in my shop. I removed the valve covers and it looks really clean inside. I'm going to look into modifying the PCV system with one from an American vehicle (trying to search for the thread) as when I removed the passenger valve cover the plastic baffle was in pieces on top of the shield inside the valve cover (I made sure I had all of it). I would like to upgrade that silly thing to an external PCV setup.

Then once the parts come in I'll break it down, install the HG's, check the front timing cover/oil pump and replace if needed, reseal it, and go from there. The owner swears the engine ran great until the tree smashed his 03 D2. It's very clean so far and I haven't found any signs of it being abused yet. I hope when I remove the heads I don't find the HG's hammered from any slipped sleeves. We;ll just have to see.

 

 

I got the engine torn down, and I have some good news and some bad news. Good news is the inside of the engine is extremely clean, rods, lifters, cam, look fantastic and the valley is very very clean with no gunk or build up. Head Gaskets are not dimpled from a slipped sleeve, and not a single steam cleaned piston. Also all the Block threads look excellent.

However the bad news is this engine sat for a bit after the tree crushed the D2, then the engine sat in a garage. Bank 2 pistons just had some carbon build up and the sleeves are nice and clean. Bank 1 had the same carbon deposits (someone did not give this 4.6L the beans very often), but 2 of the sleeves have rust in a few spots about an inch down into the sleeve

Not sure exactly what I'm going to do about that. I didn't want to totally tear out the bottom of the engine, and replace piston rings/rod bearings. There is that chemical you can buy that removes rust quickly, but I've never used it on an engine sleeve. I've used it on old tools n such.

 

Okay so I went ahead and ordered some parts as I'm a boy scout and I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Timing Chain Kit (new gears & chain) it had a good amount of slack in it
Rod Bearings CYA
Piston Rings CYA

Now I've just got to figure out where to get a hone tool specific for our engines. If I didn't have rust in the cylinder sleeve's I'd already basically have it back together, but I might as well go all out and make this engine the best it can be. I inspected the heads and this motor was torn down not long ago at all it's almost like off the shelf clean inside even the front cover. No surprises at all. If I had more $$$ I'd love to slap a Crower 53229 cam into it, but I don't have the funds right now.

 

Sounds like you'll have her up and running soon.

Brian.