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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 04:14 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
You use what you are told to us by Rover or plan on some wire harness or other electrical problems.
Mike, thats just it. In the manual its one thing, and on that sticker its another, unless I am looking at it wrong.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 04:23 PM
  #22  
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So, if I am looking at this the right way, Satellite 1, Fuse 3 is a 20amp for the Engine management.
The manual shows that its a 10amp. Which its right?
Am I looking at the right fuse, or is the Satellite 2 fuse panel?

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Old Aug 7, 2015 | 05:08 PM
  #23  
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Well, it's the Engine Management fuse. I went to start up the truck and it woundnt start.....doh. Forgot to put in a new fuse.
Anyways, all I had was a 10 amp. If it blows that, I will move up to a 20amp one. We will see
 
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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 08:53 AM
  #24  
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Default Headliner out and leak fixed....maybe

So, Over the weekend, I got the headliner out to see if I could determine where my leaks are. Before I removed the headliner, I noticed when it rained, it seemed to be mostly around the rear sunroof.
Anyways, once the headliner was out, I pulled all of the drain hoses off and blew thru them. All four of them seemed fine, and did not require any effort to blow thru them.
Later on, we had a pretty good rain all night and went out to check to see if there were any signs of leaks....bone dry. Problem solved....maybe.

This morning on my way to work, I noticed that there was some water still in the hoses at the rear drains moving around. In a few turns getting out of my driveway, the hoses acted as a "water level" moving back and forth. By the time I got to work, it all seemed to have drained out. I guess this is normal, but not sure. Pulled the hoses off again to blow thru them....nothin. Time will tell i guess.
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 06:50 PM
  #25  
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So it's been a while since I have posted anything. Over the last month or so, have have been creeping around on this forum researching repairs, mods, etc just to have some more direction for projects as they come up. My most recent job has been fixing the leaking sunroofs. Currently the headliner is out and i have been checking for leaks since i resealed the shell. So far, I have been pretty successful with the repair, but instill occasionally find some water drops coming out of random spots around screw heads, clips holes or whatever. I would rather not have to worry about the headliner after I recover it because of the water, so I guess this weekend I am going to permantly seal the sun roofs.
I know that there is a bunch of you guys that have done this, and would like to know the best way to seal it.
It seems to me that to have the most effect, it would be best to seal the outer roof shell to the roof itself, then from the outside, run a bead of sealant between the glass and the shell to seal it for good. Is that a good approach ?
 
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Old Oct 6, 2015 | 07:46 PM
  #26  
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Default Front Hub Preload

Alright, in my searching around and reading up on the RAVE, I am going to check the wheel bearing preload on the front hubs. I am wondering if the bearings are loose and causing my death wobble. It looks pretty straight forward and it seems like it wouldnt cost me anything to check it.

After reading the rave, in the re assembly of the front hub, that you need to tighten the wheel bearing nut to 61Nm which is around 44 ftlbs, then back it off 90° turn, then re tighten to 4 Nm (almost 3 ftlbs).
First question, by checking the Free play in the wheel bearings, could this be cause of my death wobble, or am I getting it confused with the swivel pins preload?

Second question, I have replaced many wheel bearings over the years, and never had to use a torque wrench. Its all been by feel. Tighten up on the spindle nut to load the bearings, then back them off to where you can turn the wheel without much effort, then put a cotter pin in, or in this case, jam the other nut against the adjusting nut. For those of you who have done this, is this method safe or do I need to break out the torque wrench?
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 06:25 AM
  #27  
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all those other cars you did by tightening the nut and then backing it off, all had torque figure too you just didnt use them.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 07:03 AM
  #28  
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Oh I am sure, manufactures have a torque spec for everything...probably even the wheels schrader valve cap. I just wanted to make sure that wasnt some finicky deal that had to be "dead on".
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 07:49 AM
  #29  
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From: Boston Strong
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what is with the wix 51773 filter? I thought the wix # was 51515
 
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Old Oct 7, 2015 | 11:59 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by drowssap
what is with the wix 51773 filter? I thought the wix # was 51515
Honestly, it was one of the first wix numbers i came across here or the board, so i went with it.
Since then, I complied a list of filters from stock to extra capacity with the sames specs.

The wix 51773 is a filter thats 6.982" Height, Dia of 3.663", Bypass at 8-11psi, flow of 7-9gph, and micron rating of 32

The 51515 is basically the same other than the 5.18" height and micron rating of 21.

I havent seen any clearance issues with the larger wix filter, and i like the little bit of extra oil and filtration i get with the 51773
 
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