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Nicely done. I have mine mounted on the drivers side but it extends a little further.
Did you end up resolving your misfire woes? I could loan you my spare MAF if you wanted to eliminate the MAF from being the root cause.
Thank you. I wanted to install the awning on the driver side but my hi-lift is firmly in place and I was to lazy to take it down and have to put it back up on other side. I like the awning alot but I already foresee my next awning. I want something that extends further and wraps around the truck. Have my eyes set on the Equipt Bat-Manta Awning but at $1,300 it will have to wait until next year.
Thanks for the compliments. Always looking for a clean presentable look for my truck, no matter what I add to it. Not always easy. Took me 3 years to settle on the right after market front bumper... ...
Robert Booth: The misfire issue is still pending but the operation of the truck has improved. No more flashing CEL. No more red cats. Misfire codes come and go. Occasionally I get 2 new codes: P1412 and P1415, both codes mean fault in secondary air system bank 1 and bank 2. They come when I first start the truck and after I clear them and drive around they dont come back. I would be interested in your offer for letting me use your spare MAF. How much for shipping to North Springfield VT PO Box?
Occasionally I get 2 new codes: P1412 and P1415, both codes mean fault in secondary air system bank 1 and bank 2. They come when I first start the truck and after I clear them and drive around they dont come back.
I had those on my D2 as well. The SAI solenoid can get gunked up and stuck. I took it out and sprayed out the inside of both ends really well with brake/electrical cleaner.
After one treatment, the codes didnt come back for a few weeks. One or two more spray sessions later and the codes never came back.
It is worth a shot as it is right next to the IACV and extremely easy to remove.
Thank you. I wanted to install the awning on the driver side but my hi-lift is firmly in place and I was to lazy to take it down and have to put it back up on other side. I like the awning alot but I already foresee my next awning. I want something that extends further and wraps around the truck. Have my eyes set on the Equipt Bat-Manta Awning but at $1,300 it will have to wait until next year.
Thanks for the compliments. Always looking for a clean presentable look for my truck, no matter what I add to it. Not always easy. Took me 3 years to settle on the right after market front bumper... ...
Robert Booth: The misfire issue is still pending but the operation of the truck has improved. No more flashing CEL. No more red cats. Misfire codes come and go. Occasionally I get 2 new codes: P1412 and P1415, both codes mean fault in secondary air system bank 1 and bank 2. They come when I first start the truck and after I clear them and drive around they dont come back. I would be interested in your offer for letting me use your spare MAF. How much for shipping to North Springfield VT PO Box?
I'll check on postage today. Shouldn't be more than 10 bucks or so?
I have an OZ tent Foxwing on my truck. The amount of available attachments and durability is what sold me in the end.
Needed to get out of town, change of scenery and meet a fishing boat owner in Maine. Spent the day over there shooting the ****, driving around. Roughly 280 miles total put on my truck today. The drive to the coast was pleasant until I arrived in Maine. Then this happened:
Guess its a never ending process. When you fix one thing, something else fails. Front wheels hubs, ABS sensors and axle shaft seals are new as of mid to late 2015. Either the parts Im ordering from a certain somebody in Northern VT are bad or my truck is a lemon. I admit I ordered aftermarket wheel hubs instead of the more expensive genuine units. The area behind the front driver side wheel hub is wet as seen in pics below. I had this problem over a year ago with same wheel, and it turned out to be bad worn out axle shaft seals. I replaced them myself and they failed again. Brought the truck to my mechanic and he replaced them again. The driver side did not seat properly so he replaced the driver side axle shaft seal AGAIN. Then everyone forgot about it and moved on (myself included). Afew weeks ago while changing the oil I noticed that the driver side wheel is leaking again. Could be the axle shaft seal again? Could it be a bad/faulty wheel hub? Or something else causing the seal to fail prematurely? The noises started today. I checked the brake pads and they have plenty of meat left. Sounds are audible at speeds up to 35-40 MPH. Regardless of what gear you are in. Same noise when you drive in reverse. When you take your foot off the gas pedal the noise decreases but is still apparent. Front and rear drive shafts have been greased recently and aside from surface rust and peeled paint on the front shaft, both shafts appear to be in alright condition.
My first course of action is to order 2 axle shaft seals (hopefully local auto parts store has one), pull the front drive wheel and hub and inspect the axle shaft splines for any visible damages. Then Ill try my luck at seating in a new seal.
Your hubs are obviously leaking but that sounds exactly like u joints in the front driveshaft squeaking.
The fluid leaking out of the hubs is differential oil from the axle tubes. I don't think that is making your squeak. The oil slashes to the ends of the tubes when you turn or on unlevel ground.
Don't feel bad about aftermarket hubs. Most of them are Timken (spelling?) and are very good hubs.
That is precisely the sound my driveshaft has made when either the centering ball or u joints were bad. Since you have an 04 you can lock the CDL, remove the driveshaft, and drive a bit, and I doubt you will hear any more squeak.
Your hubs are obviously leaking but that sounds exactly like u joints in the front driveshaft squeaking.
The fluid leaking out of the hubs is differential oil from the axle tubes. I don't think that is making your squeak. The oil slashes to the ends of the tubes when you turn or on unlevel ground.
Don't feel bad about aftermarket hubs. Most of them are Timken (spelling?) and are very good hubs.
That is precisely the sound my driveshaft has made when either the centering ball or u joints were bad. Since you have an 04 you can lock the CDL, remove the driveshaft, and drive a bit, and I doubt you will hear any more squeak.
Charlie_V: You rock! As per your suggestion I dropped the front drive shaft, locked the CDL and drove around, sound is gone. So is there any way to tell if its just the u-joints that are bad vs the centering ball? Joints are easy job but the centering ball is a pain in the ***.
I ordered 3 Moog u-joints part # 344 from RockAuto. Cheaper shipped to my door than local parts stores. I also want to replace the front diff pinion seal. Did some research and my understanding is that there is suppose to be a castle nut or a nyloc nut that holds the flange in place? Is this how the flange/pinion assembly is suppose to look:
Yes your pinion looks fine. Some diffs have a nut, some a bolt. IDK where the cut off is for make/model. Anyway, zip the bolt out, swap the seal, add some threadlocker to the bolt, and retorque.
Yes your pinion looks fine. Some diffs have a nut, some a bolt. IDK where the cut off is for make/model. Anyway, zip the bolt out, swap the seal, add some threadlocker to the bolt, and retorque.
Alright cool. I did not know a bolt was fitted by the factory... Should I replace the bolt or reuse the old one? I've heard the flange is a bitch to remove, is there any specialized tools Ill need?
05-05-2016, 09:55 PM
