It doesn't look as good sunk in the engine bay with a fan shroud covering the front. But I KNOW IT IS PAINTED and that's what counts.

 

I wouldn't bother getting a Tom Woods down the road. I'm sure the ProShaft you have is up to the task and sounds like it uses larger/beefier components anyway. Now that you know the part numbers just keep it like you said and rebuild when funds allow.

 

Thanks. Hopefully in afew weeks or so I can source the correct parts for finishing the Proshaft shaft. I like to do things in pairs so I imagine Ill be rebuilding the rear drive shaft in the near future though it was rebuilt in 2013 with new bearing, u-joints and rubber flex coupler. Why do you suggest against Tom Woods? I thought you were a advocate for their products? When I was over at Performance Unlimited/DAP getting my rear light wired, they had a bunch of UK Land Rover magazines on the table. I was surprised to see Tom Woods drive shafts add in the back of the magazine along with countless other adds for awesome parts and accessories for our older Rovers. I figure if they are good enough to be mentioned in a magazine in the UK then they must be pretty dam good.

I definitely agree that right now and even in the near future I dont "need" a Tom Woods drive shaft, BUT down the road a ways I want to finish off the build with lockers, extended breathers, protection for the steering components and fuel tank AND heavy duty drive shafts front and rear. Furthermore I would like to have a drive shaft for which replacement parts are easy to source from local parts stores. The parts for the Proshaft drive shaft are less common and in fact Dynamic Drivelines said no local parts store would likely stock/sell the required centering ball kit, and they recommended that I bring it to a drive shaft shop. Grant I dont know if the Tom Woods shafts use parts that are easy to source or not but.... just saying. I imagine sourcing parts in Alaska will be harder than it is here in New England so have to take that into account.

 

I'm not advocating against Tom Woods, I'm just saying it seems you already have an upgraded shaft in your possession that would be more cost effective to rebuild.
I have a DC Tom Woods shaft in my front and its been fine. I also just picked up a DC Tom Woods shaft for my rear. They're not cheap. The front was $230 new through Will Tillery a number of years ago, and the rear was a used shaft from my friend that I had rebuilt by Tom Woods, and it was still $270 all said and done.

The ProShaft will probably suit your needs and save you money.

 

Not to contradict Fisheh, but just to offer an alternate view, I got HD GBR shafts front and back and they are night and day more substantial (size, weight) than the previous HD shafts I had before. I would have much more confidence in them (against twisting or bending) than the other HD shafts I had.

But, in truth, I really don't need them. I just needed new ones (and wanted to do the rotoflex delete and get double cardan back) and paid a little extra (close to double, probably) to get the big ones and the rear flange.

 

I imagine both companies make great shafts though. I dont care to remove the rubber flex coupler as its never been a problem. Its easy to inspect, super easy to replace when it goes bad. I dont understand exactly how the double cardan works and weather its a improvment or a disadvantage for the overall performance of the drive shaft.

I will say that a genuine front drive shaft cost $972.16
PROP SHAFT FRONT V-8 DISCOVERY II 2003+, RNI782, TVB000320 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

and a aftermarket Proline front drive shaft cost $439
PROP SHAFT FRONT V8 DISCOVERY II 99-04 HEAVY DUTY, RND665HD, DISCOVERY 2 FRONT PROP SHAFT, DRIVE SHAFT - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts


So unless Tom Woods drive shafts are $500 a piece than I would have no problem buying one and I have a feeling it will out perform the Proline shaft seen above....

PS: I cant even believe how much that Proline costs though... Rovers North was selling Proshaft drive shafts for a very short time (around the time I bought mine) but now I guess they are using someone elses drive shafts.

 

I don't know which ones are best. Bill at GBR answered my call and talked with me until I ran out of questions, so I bought from him. I think they were about 400 each.

At the time I was looking at remote land. I did go look but the meth monkeys scared me away.

 

Julian; Lucky 8. Lucky 8; Julian.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/pr...shipped-76571/

Yes TW and GBR shafts will be more heavy duty than a stock shaft. Not having seen the ProShaft I can't say how it compares to either. For his intended use I'm guessing the ProShaft will suffice. Heck, I ran a stock rear driveshaft with HD axles, lockers, and 315/75 and it was fine. The only reason I went TW front and rear is for geometry purposes.

 

Same here. That's why I needed new ones.

My lift was ruining the old ones at an alarming rate.

 

By the time I get this drive shaft dilemma sorted out, I will no doubt be an expert in the rebuilding process of these drive shafts. I'm pretty sure I can do the entire job (minus the painting) with my eyes closed now...

So there I was... disassembling the original drive shaft that I retained as a spare. Got all the u-joints taken out. Removed the centering ball. Got the shaft itself stripped of all the paint. Nice sunny day - what could possibly go wrong on a day like this?

How about a crack in the double cardan section? GAME OVER! Im going to return the 2 remaining u-joints and centering ball kit still in box for a partial refund. If I have enough $$ left over Ill order the correct parts for the Proshaft LLC unit and finish that rebuild and apply a final layer of paint and call it good. My OCD about stripping off the old paint and rust actually paid off, because had I not done that I may not have noticed the crack in the flange.

On a side note is anyone in the market for a G4 headlight guard kit? Brand new? Ill sell them cheaper than retail as I need the extra $$. Wanted to fit them over my headlights but after polishing my headlights I decided it would be better to wait until the units are replaced. That wont happen anytime this year. Have bigger priorities.