Operation Magpie.
Hope you get your Rover working soon!
Inlaws are gone.. love them but glad they are gone 
Going to take out the tstat tomorrow afternoon and see what happens
Ordered a new temp sensor from AB (same PN as L8) so that should be here in a few days.
Also going to do the diff oil change (finally) and take some pics because I have to keep this thread interesting with pics for you gents
Going to take out the tstat tomorrow afternoon and see what happens
Ordered a new temp sensor from AB (same PN as L8) so that should be here in a few days.Also going to do the diff oil change (finally) and take some pics because I have to keep this thread interesting with pics for you gents
HOLY ****
Removed the tstat from the scenario and.. No over heating!
No but really, things seem to be working as they should now. Heat in the cabin measured at 130 degrees, most coolant hoses were in the 130 range as well, meanwhile the UG was reading around 180 at the same time. MagPie took a really long time to get up to temp, almost 30ish minutes but held steady while at idle in the 195 - 215 range (i'll explain more later on that) for almost an hour.
Here is UG readings after things had been idling for about an hour:
Prior to that pic, i was "poking" around the engine bay with the temp gun that I have and thought this was weird. Its kinda hard to tell but the gun is pointed right next to or right on the brass part of the temp sensor.
10 seconds later or so, this is what UG was reading:
Soo.. what is going on with that.
Back to the temp fluctuation -- I was fiddling with the heat blasting, to off and then with the AC on while all of this excitement was happening right before my eyes
Drove around the apartment complex and things were in the low 200's the whole time but after parking (while still on) the temps actually went down a few degrees so that good.
NOW for the bad. Yeah, you knew this was coming.
The TB is sticky now for some reason. It'll idle around the 600 mark but give a tap of gas and it'll stick around 1300 or so and never go back down on its own unless i physically grab the butterflies and lower the rpms. Not really a huge deal but still something that needs to be fixed before i can safely drive down the road. Speaking of safety, the brakes are horrible -- Really have to get these bled. Initial pedal feel is awesome but then the pedal becomes rock hard and takes a ton of force to actually get the truck to come to a stop.
Oi vey.
Little victories.
Removed the tstat from the scenario and.. No over heating!
No but really, things seem to be working as they should now. Heat in the cabin measured at 130 degrees, most coolant hoses were in the 130 range as well, meanwhile the UG was reading around 180 at the same time. MagPie took a really long time to get up to temp, almost 30ish minutes but held steady while at idle in the 195 - 215 range (i'll explain more later on that) for almost an hour.
Here is UG readings after things had been idling for about an hour:
Prior to that pic, i was "poking" around the engine bay with the temp gun that I have and thought this was weird. Its kinda hard to tell but the gun is pointed right next to or right on the brass part of the temp sensor.
10 seconds later or so, this is what UG was reading:
Soo..
what is going on with that.Back to the temp fluctuation -- I was fiddling with the heat blasting, to off and then with the AC on while all of this excitement was happening right before my eyes
Drove around the apartment complex and things were in the low 200's the whole time but after parking (while still on) the temps actually went down a few degrees so that good.NOW for the bad. Yeah, you knew this was coming.
The TB is sticky now for some reason. It'll idle around the 600 mark but give a tap of gas and it'll stick around 1300 or so and never go back down on its own unless i physically grab the butterflies and lower the rpms. Not really a huge deal but still something that needs to be fixed before i can safely drive down the road. Speaking of safety, the brakes are horrible -- Really have to get these bled. Initial pedal feel is awesome but then the pedal becomes rock hard and takes a ton of force to actually get the truck to come to a stop.
Oi vey.
Little victories.
Remove the throttle body cable and Cruise Control cable then manually move the TB plate by hand. Does it stick? If it does simply remove the TB from the D2, remove the 3 screws holding the TB plate into position and then it will slide out from the TB. Take a scotchbrite pad to the outside edge until it's nice and smooth. Then you can use the scotchbrite pad on the TB itself inside. Then re-install and it should be silky smooth. If it sticks when only connected to the cables one of them is binding.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Dec 2016
Posts: 1,603
Likes: 229
From: Fall City, WA
Remove the throttle body cable and Cruise Control cable then manually move the TB plate by hand. Does it stick? If it does simply remove the TB from the D2, remove the 3 screws holding the TB plate into position and then it will slide out from the TB. Take a scotchbrite pad to the outside edge until it's nice and smooth. Then you can use the scotchbrite pad on the TB itself inside. Then re-install and it should be silky smooth. If it sticks when only connected to the cables one of them is binding.